Pottsy, Amid a grey near cyclone induced weather lockdown, as well as community recommendations to stay home, it was refreshing to read of your adventures. Thanks for your stylish writings.
DS Cooling
- Thread starter pottsy
- Start date
Hi this is my first input to a thread though I have been following Aussiefrogs for a few years. I have a 1974 D Special which I am close to getting back on the road after a 20 year rest and home to rats etc. I am only the second owner of the car having purchased it in Bellingen in 1985. The original owner bought it new in Adelaide ( Chateau Moteur??) and interestingly it was supplied new with BMW 2002 bonnet vents fitted in the bottom of the front wings and with the the sealing rubber below the windscreen removed! He was an industrial design engineer for Planet Lamps and commuted between Bellingen and Adelaide in the car for at least a couple of years without any issues, and I never had any overheating issues with it, mostly country running.
It is still basically original, although I have replaced water pump, radiator, thermo, hoses,belts,heater radiator, tyres etc as part of refurbishment. Hope to have it on the road and reregistered fir Cowra Citin.
I also have a 95 Xantia 2,0I registered, two good Xantia 16V series 2, 2 hail damaged Xantia S2, and a 2004 C5 HDI wagon.
Over the years other Citroens have been a 1973 GS 1070 wagon, a 1954 Big 15, and Renaults have included 16TS(2),R10,R8(2),R4(4).Dauphine, and a 750. and also a Simca 1000.
I am based at Gunning in NSW.
Cheers,
Gaz
It is still basically original, although I have replaced water pump, radiator, thermo, hoses,belts,heater radiator, tyres etc as part of refurbishment. Hope to have it on the road and reregistered fir Cowra Citin.
I also have a 95 Xantia 2,0I registered, two good Xantia 16V series 2, 2 hail damaged Xantia S2, and a 2004 C5 HDI wagon.
Over the years other Citroens have been a 1973 GS 1070 wagon, a 1954 Big 15, and Renaults have included 16TS(2),R10,R8(2),R4(4).Dauphine, and a 750. and also a Simca 1000.
I am based at Gunning in NSW.
Cheers,
Gaz
Good to read this Pottsy. Best wishes.
Welcome Gaz - from the UK
Your post may go unnoticed, and you may feel you lacked a welcome, as it was part of a discussion particularly about DS Cooling. Why not copy your text and start a new 'Hello' thread? I'm sure there will be more of a welcome for you and some interest in your two owner car - especially those 'from new' BMW bonnet vents in the wings !?!
Hi. I know that this is an old thread that has been resurected, and it was a good read.
But I do feel inclined to comment on the above posts.
My understanding is that the heat range of spark plugs is mostly relevant to maintaining the optimum electrode and centre insulator tempreture. Its a bit like the porridge in Goldilocks: not to hot as to incandense and cause preignition, and not to cold as to allow combustion deposits to form and not burn off.
The spark plug heat range has, for practicable purposes, no direct affect on the running tempreture of the engine.
Also the shorter reach electrode spark plugs are used to achieve colder electrode tempretures.
Cheers.
Hi John W,
Noticing your role as R 750 Coordinator I still have a fairly pristine copy of Scientific Magazines Service Manual for Renault 750-760 1948-1953 Revised and reprinted May 1962 by The K G Murray Publishing Co Sydney if you or anyone is interested in it.I also have an Intereurope Workshop Manual 141 for Renault 16-16TS-16TA in perfect condition. By the way I had my D Special in Perth from 1997 to 2001 but never had it registered. I was in the Citroen Car Club and Lorenz Borg did quite a bit of work tidying it up and putting it back together for me before it was shipped back East. Letr me know if you would like these manuals.
Gaz
I'll be happy to take the manuals off your hands and find suitable custodians!
We might know each other then. The good Mr Borg is still going strong, working recently on a Renault Fregate restoration. His wife is well too. Must be his good habits and absorbtion of LHM I think.
Cheers
John
Pottsy
Some thoughts
First you don’t need any fan at highway speeds so the ptoblem is lurking somewhere else
Is the electric fan you installed pulling air as they are usually designed to push from the other side of the radiator
My ds 23 runs at about 65 degrees. It creeps a little higher on hot days. I had the radiator recored, and used a glycol coolant
Is the water pump shagged?
Do you have one of those stockings at the radiator inlet? They can get blocked up and stop the flow
If you really want to measure temperatures accurately try this. I have one on my DS23 and am far more relaxed. Cheap and easy to install
engineguard.com.au
Engine Overheating Alarm | Engine Guard
Acting as a catch-all for overheating. Get accurate feedback and early warning of abnormal temperatures. Independant temp sensor and adjustable audible alarm.
engineguard.com.au
Wow. It's amazing when an aged thread gets revived, derailed and augmented all in the space of a week or so.
Can I point out that my original discussions, attempts at solution and conclusions were all taking place in 2006!
Since the latest issue, detailed in post 60, the Great White Whale has behaved with a total lack of peccability. Several jaunts in rally guise have shown he can still keep his cool quite well.
At the risk on inflaming passions best left relocated to another thread, I suggest that the forced air flow at highway speeds is nowhere near that we would normally expect. Whatever the reason, the DC3 propeller does its thing effectively and well, and, realistically, no-one is going to notice a change in performance of a few hp in such a leisurely velocipede anyway.
The electric fan was consigned to a shelf in 2006, and the water pump was also replaced that year and as explained in previous posts, I have an inline filter, sort of an expensive and prettier version of the inserted stocking, which has only clogged the once.
So thanks for all the support and ideas, even if they're mostly about 15 years overdue!
Cheers, Pottsy
Can I point out that my original discussions, attempts at solution and conclusions were all taking place in 2006!
Since the latest issue, detailed in post 60, the Great White Whale has behaved with a total lack of peccability. Several jaunts in rally guise have shown he can still keep his cool quite well.
At the risk on inflaming passions best left relocated to another thread, I suggest that the forced air flow at highway speeds is nowhere near that we would normally expect. Whatever the reason, the DC3 propeller does its thing effectively and well, and, realistically, no-one is going to notice a change in performance of a few hp in such a leisurely velocipede anyway.
The electric fan was consigned to a shelf in 2006, and the water pump was also replaced that year and as explained in previous posts, I have an inline filter, sort of an expensive and prettier version of the inserted stocking, which has only clogged the once.
So thanks for all the support and ideas, even if they're mostly about 15 years overdue!
Cheers, Pottsy
Hmmm. I must pay more attention to history. That being said there is a lot to be learned from getting the original components working as intendedWow. It's amazing when an aged thread gets revived, derailed and augmented all in the space of a week or so.
Can I point out that my original discussions, attempts at solution and conclusions were all taking place in 2006!
Since the latest issue, detailed in post 60, the Great White Whale has behaved with a total lack of peccability. Several jaunts in rally guise have shown he can still keep his cool quite well.
At the risk on inflaming passions best left relocated to another thread, I suggest that the forced air flow at highway speeds is nowhere near that we would normally expect. Whatever the reason, the DC3 propeller does its thing effectively and well, and, realistically, no-one is going to notice a change in performance of a few hp in such a leisurely velocipede anyway.
The electric fan was consigned to a shelf in 2006, and the water pump was also replaced that year and as explained in previous posts, I have an inline filter, sort of an expensive and prettier version of the inserted stocking, which has only clogged the once.
So thanks for all the support and ideas, even if they're mostly about 15 years overdue!
Cheers, Pottsy
Hi John W,
If you send me your postal address to prattley@macroplan.com.au I will post those manuals to you.
Regards,
Gary
If you send me your postal address to prattley@macroplan.com.au I will post those manuals to you.
Regards,
Gary
It has been mentioned before but what I do - - learnt from guru Lance from DS Motors is use a stocking about 6 inces long on the top hose. The stocking is drawn into the radiator and will not clog. In my early days and probably because I was driving D Models that had had many issues I would end up with a bit less than a golf ball size of granules every time I had a look.
In a traction the length of stocking needs to be shorter to avoid it being sucked into the small top pipe of the radiator
- - - my 2 bobs worth, John
I have a 1966 Citroen DS with a DX 2175cc engine. I live in Greece and the engine was over-heating when temperature was above 30 degrees. I have installed a 3 grilles aluminium radiator, a new water pump and all the hosing. I observed that the temperature of the engine improved, but still the car was running on high temperature. I wasnt feeling safe so I decided to open the engine head and clean the water channels because I suspected that whole water circulation inside the engine was partially blocked. I have attached fotos of before and after. It was blocked from rust and IT WORKED. After we clean the water channels we also changed the valves, gasket etc. After all these the car is running way much better. The temperature is even lower and I also added 2 electric ventilators in the radiator (fotos) with a switch inside the car. When temperature is very high, 35 degrees or above, I dont use the car and if I have to, in a very hot day, I travel very early in the morning, there is no other solution because of the technology of the car, it is not a new one. But after these actions, car's temperature has been drastically improved. I am posting what I did if it is helpful from someone.
Attachments
This is an old thread & haven't read more than page 1.
1. Leave all shrouds in place.
2. The thermostat is fine, leave it alone.
3. If the engine is NOT BOILING & losing coolant it is NOT overheating.
4. The temps talked of on this car are fine but we don't use *F any more.
5. Boiling point in that system is 212*F but with a 7# cap is raised to about 233*F.
6. Buy a good high CFM 16" fan from Davies Craig not cheap stuff off ePay.
7. When the engine is hot just squeeze the radiator hose & it feels solid & hard to squeeze it means the coolant system is under pressure, as it should be.
8. Squishy means the pressure cap is not working.
9. That raises the boiling point.
10. Never remove a radiator cap if pressure is present as you are likely to get severe burns from superheated steam.
11. Use a fan switch set @ about 90*C to turn fan on.
Too much worry about nothing abnormal.
1. Leave all shrouds in place.
2. The thermostat is fine, leave it alone.
3. If the engine is NOT BOILING & losing coolant it is NOT overheating.
4. The temps talked of on this car are fine but we don't use *F any more.
5. Boiling point in that system is 212*F but with a 7# cap is raised to about 233*F.
6. Buy a good high CFM 16" fan from Davies Craig not cheap stuff off ePay.
7. When the engine is hot just squeeze the radiator hose & it feels solid & hard to squeeze it means the coolant system is under pressure, as it should be.
8. Squishy means the pressure cap is not working.
9. That raises the boiling point.
10. Never remove a radiator cap if pressure is present as you are likely to get severe burns from superheated steam.
11. Use a fan switch set @ about 90*C to turn fan on.
Too much worry about nothing abnormal.
I have the original shroud in place
I didn't change the thermostat.
I've driven old ID19's in temperatures upto 40degrees C.... They are fine. You will end up very warm as the ambient temperatures increase ( 95'ish degrees C on the temp gauge). But don't worry, you have should have coolant in there and a 7psi radiator cap. Your coolant won't actually boil until about 115degrees C.
I would suggest it is working exactly "as designed" and well within the design limits for the motor. I'd be more concerned about the poor bastard melting inside the car
I would suggest it is working exactly "as designed" and well within the design limits for the motor. I'd be more concerned about the poor bastard melting inside the car
Your words are encouraging, whenever the gauge increases close to the red section or when the temperature lamp turns on (no idea about actual temperatures in the engine or coolant) I am worried that the engine must stop and I try to decrease temperature. I am actually worried not to destroy the engine becuase if I have to replace it, will leave the car. The hose is under pressure as you describe, the cap is a 7 psi cap and the original fan with the 2 auxilliary electric ones and the shroud in its place, seem to work .
Oh, the temperature light should never turn on!