WTB D-jetronic bits

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Hi guys, looking for some D-jetronic injection trigger points as used in the R17TS and various Peugeots and Citroëns. For use in my A310-4 which has the R17TS set up, any condition.
If you've any other bits surplus to your requirements I might be interested too.
Thanks
 

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Looks like a good fix, and being teflon will last longer than the original. Price is not to bad as they do more than just replace the worn parts.
Wondering what I can do with a block of Teflon and a file at home!
 
You got nothing to loose, could the parts be made in a 3D printer?
3d printing is not overly structural, there's little imperfections between every little blob of plastic that goes down. There's a range of plastics you can use, but they're all thermoplastics, ie they're meltable at low temperatures, not sure how they'd last. Great for rapid prototypes to check fitments. In saying that the 3d printer at work and the CNC mill are not doing a lot at the moment, I could CAD up a design pretty quickly. Sort of hoping for someone to have some old ones I can work with, mine are working now, but the metal tabs needed a little bend for the whole lot to function as intended.
 
Wondering what I can do with a block of Teflon and a file at home!
Nothing. Teflon doesn't file at all, you'll just muck up your file with teflon and then it will moosh around for naught.

If you only need the fibre board bits send me a good original or dimensions and I'll make you a pair out of teflon for the price of postage. Or Vesconite (which in my opinion is better here). If the spring thingos are bad, I can't help.

My 17G doesn't have those, is my setup different (I have a hall effect dizzy). Maybe you could upgrade?
 
Send me a good original or dimensions and I'll make you a pair out of teflon for the price of postage. Or Vesconite (which in my opinion is better).

My 17G doesn't have those, is my setup different (I have a hall effect dizzy). Maybe you could upgrade?
Thanks, if I come up with I design I'll send it your way.

Your 17G isn't injected any more? These are the injection triggers which sit below the points. I'm planning on getting rid of the points, haven't decided on which ones yet though. Hot spark not too expensive, Pertronix a step up
 

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It is injected and truth be told I never took a close look at the dizzy. I know it does have the plug on the side but I didn't think much of it and I don't remember seeing the plate at the bottom, but that was long ago. Maybe I should have another look. But it does have a hall effect sensor for spark not points. It's a late car if that makes any difference.
 
It is injected and truth be told I never took a close look at the dizzy. I know it does have the plug on the side but I didn't think much of it and I don't remember seeing the plate at the bottom, but that was long ago. Maybe I should have another look. But it does have a hall effect sensor for spark not points. It's a late car if that makes any difference.
You'll have the injection trigger cassette. They wear, and when they do the contacts stop opening and you'll get over fueling issues as the injectors constantly pump fuel. Took me ages to figure out what was wrong with mine. Angru spotted the issue when I posted a picture of my plugs. Mine are working again, but will wear down again. I want to be ready for that.
 
I wonder if these could be replaced with some Hall effect sensors like the aftermarket Pertronix and the like. I mean a simple direct replacement rather than a more involved electronic circuitry. All they seem to do is provide a 12V pulse (well, two per revolution). Doesn't seem to have any advance mechanism either. You'd think even two sensors on the camshaft (or just one on the crankshaft, like a TDC sensor) could do the job.
 
I wonder if these could be replaced with some Hall effect sensors like the aftermarket Pertronix and the like. I mean a simple direct replacement rather than a more involved electronic circuitry. All they seem to do is provide a 12V pulse (well, two per revolution). Doesn't seem to have any advance mechanism either. You'd think even two sensors on the camshaft (or just one on the crankshaft, like a TDC sensor) could do the job.
There probably not enough space where that cassette fits so your idea, which I have also thought about. This could be rigged up externally on the camshaft pulley with a cam of the same profile as what is in the Bosch distributor and some brackets to hold a couple of proximity switches.

Just my :2cents: worth on the idea.
 
I wonder if these could be replaced with some Hall effect sensors like the aftermarket Pertronix and the like. I mean a simple direct replacement rather than a more involved electronic circuitry. All they seem to do is provide a 12V pulse (well, two per revolution). Doesn't seem to have any advance mechanism either. You'd think even two sensors on the camshaft (or just one on the crankshaft, like a TDC sensor) could do the job.
no doubt something could be done, I haven't seen it done. D-Jetronic went onto many, many cars. The points stay closed for a while, 135-160 degrees, not just a pint impulse like ignition points.

Everything you need to know about D-Jet is found here: https://jetronic.org/en/d-jetronic
 
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I just thought the dizzy is going to change the impulse timing when adjusting static timing so that has to come into play as well so for simplicity you'd have to stay with the dizzy. Optic pickup with slit disc, blank as many slits as needed. But I wouldn't think the dwell time is that important if the signal goes to the ECU. It's more likely the ECU cares only about the rising flank of the signal and provides a pulse of the required length to the injectors.

What does the cam that closes the contacts look like?

Just get me some dimensions, it doesn't look complicated at all. Critical I think (given there is no adjustment) is the distance hinge to follower foot and foot height from back face (where the moving contact plate sits).
 
One of the guys on the D-Jet forum used to make these, he's unfortunately passed. I've asked if there is a drawing available. Otherwise I'll get the calipers out and pull mine from the dizzy and measure them up.

1615250122295.png
 

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That's all I need. The hole diameters would be helpful as well just to make sure stuff fits.
It might get more complicated! The original cams are pressed over a spigot, I'll need new spigots that are threaded or with a groove for a c-clip. Or the originals may be able to be threaded, not sure.
This is why I'm after an old set so a can mess around without taking my car off the road.
 

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Tim. I do have a spare set, and distributor too. If you want to borrow it for the purpose of getting your car sorted, or for research and development of replacement options, you’d be very welcome. I don’t even have a car that it fits, so I probably need to stop hoarding parts!
 
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