WTB D-jetronic bits

Tim. I do have a spare set, and distributor too. If you want to borrow it for the purpose of getting your car sorted, or for research and development of replacement options, you’d be very welcome. I don’t even have a car that it fits, so I probably need to stop hoarding parts!
Cheers mate, might be handy for R&D purposes.
Never stop hoarding!
 
It might get more complicated! The original cams are pressed over a spigot, I'll need new spigots that are threaded or with a groove for a c-clip. Or the originals may be able to be threaded, not sure.
This is why I'm after an old set so a can mess around without taking my car off the road.

You are going to make me dig out mine.

How do they pivot around those shafts if they're pressed on? I think (going by the picture above) they're kept in with that washer and the spigot is flared a bit to keep the washer from flying off, but the arms are free to pivot on the spigot.

No matter. I see the bloke on ebay has threaded the spigots and put two screws in, which is how I was thinking to do but a circlip is probably better (more reliable) provided you want to go to the trouble of taking out the spigots. His method I suspect leaves the originals in place, just drill them down a bit and thread them, loctite and you're done. Either way, not that difficult, just a bit more fiddly.
 
You are going to make me dig out mine.

How do they pivot around those shafts if they're pressed on? I think (going by the picture above) they're kept in with that washer and the spigot is flared a bit to keep the washer from flying off, but the arms are free to pivot on the spigot.

No matter. I see the bloke on ebay has threaded the spigots and put two screws in, which is how I was thinking to do but a circlip is probably better (more reliable) provided you want to go to the trouble of taking out the spigots. His method I suspect leaves the originals in place, just drill them down a bit and thread them, loctite and you're done. Either way, not that difficult, just a bit more fiddly.
Been chatting to Norbert from the Dr D Jet forum, he's sent me his drawing for the checking fixture and instructions to use it. He says just keep bending the spring tabs until they're completely worn.

I've drawn it up in CAD for 3D printing rather than machining up.

https://jetronic.org/en/d-jetronic

Looks like some of the Mercedes ones came with c-clip spigots rather than end-flared ones
 

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I was thinking and perhaps the best mod would be to replace the fibre parts with a roller assembly like they do with cam followers. I reckon two Delrin or Vesconite rollers would outlast the car. That means fabricating the oscillating arm out of something else, aluminium probably the easiest but on that occasion you could replace the long lamellar springs with spiral steel ones as well and do away with another possible failure point and a less than ideal design. You would need to insulate the arms somehow though, possibly insert bushings again in Delrin or Vesconite.
 
I was thinking and perhaps the best mod would be to replace the fibre parts with a roller assembly like they do with cam followers. I reckon two Delrin or Vesconite rollers would outlast the car. That means fabricating the oscillating arm out of something else, aluminium probably the easiest but on that occasion you could replace the long lamellar springs with spiral steel ones as well and do away with another possible failure point and a less than ideal design. You would need to insulate the arms somehow though, possibly insert bushings again in Delrin or Vesconite.
Now you're overcomplicating it, I love it! Best mod is just putting on a modern computer to run the injection and timing, and get a 25% power boost for the effort!
 
I have a couple of question about the D-jetronic - a couple of set ups have come up on some web-sites:

A: can you replace the original injectors with modern types?
B: or is it better to just run the original injectors with a modern computer?

Cheers,
 
I have a couple of question about the D-jetronic - a couple of set ups have come up on some web-sites:

A: can you replace the original injectors with modern types?
B: or is it better to just run the original injectors with a modern computer?

Cheers,
If you’re going to modern ECU you’d be best to upgrade the injectors too. I did one on a 17g upgrading from d-jectronic and was originally planning to use original. EFI hardware gave me a lot of advice and decided it was a much better idea to go with modern ones and not a lot of money. If you’re converting d jectronic to aftermarket you need to upgrade pretty much everything, tps, ignition, air temp sensor, water temp sensor, trigger sensors, most aftermarket ECU’s will have map sensor built in, so that’s not an issue.
what sites are you looking on where d jectronic systems are offered for sale? I need to look harder!
 
Ok - but the original manifold hardware is useable?

Here is one example:

https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s...inspritzung-ansaugbruecke/1680306286-223-7394
Yes, seen a few examples of that. That's pretty good value, but limited appeal.
There's nothing wrong with the actual injectors themselves, but the computer itself is pretty basic, and nearly 50 year old technology. A modern one running the spark and fuel will give a solid power increase, but the original sensors won't work.
In saying that I've read on a Porsche 914 forum a guy who developed an adapter board for a Megasquirt efi, hidden inside the original case. Just needed a modern pressure sensor, which he hid inside the original MAP case. You still won't get sequential injection without a cam sensor
 
Scored a DS dizzy off ebay, same triggers inside it. Had a mandrel 3d printed so I can check clearances to the arms and bend if necessary
 

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