Yeah I have asked over there ...... they also suggested everything I had already checked!Maybe better to take this discussion to the Land Rover forum. Rangie
Hi Shane, I agree with schlitzaugen.So you hydrolocked your engine on cylinder #8 (at least) with petrol because the diaphragm in the fuel pressure reguator capsule is cactus, right? I bet there's a lot of petrol in the oil too.
Measuring the height of the piston at TDC is still possible even with plug holes on an angle. You only need relative measurements here, not absolute. For an accurate result you need to somehow make sure the dial gauge (or measuring implement - it can even be a stick) is perfectly lined up with the plug hole (to take the plug hole relative position to the piston top as a reference) and can't move sideways. Measure two cylinders and compare. An adaptor might be needed, but I am sure you have the imagination to come up with a makeshift one or if you have a lathe can make a very reliable one.
Or maybe it's worth trying to take some measurement no matter how dodgy any way you can first to see if there's a huge difference and then decide if it's worth going to more trouble for a more accurate result.
This is just because it's the easiest thing to do before you go to the length of doing Col's method and also does away with all the other variables of a leakdown test (carbon on valves, stuck valves, broken rings, etc). Or taking heads off, etc.
Before pulling engine apart check push rods / valves are functioning. The Indian rope trick is required here
Rope trick Can dismantle springs and collets, rockers, seals and push rods and check nothing is bent
Pistons/rings fail before connecting rod especially at cranking speeds
As a previous Rangie owner, they actually all do this, alphabetically or numerically to drive you wild.
Look on the bright side of life, you still have 3 spare cylinders.
They added 4 cylinders to the original 1948 motor to get you home.
Happy New Landrover Year
I'll pull the head and see once the motor is outWould it be correct to say that you would not really be able to tell if they were completely closed unless you checked that you have the correct valve clearance ? I wouldn't expect the valve / s to be bent hugely. Only a tiny bit will cause a bad seal. But if so, it'd be the inlet....it's softer than the exhaust.
You need to use six sided sockets and not your standard 12 point sockets when undoing bolts like this. I have had something like this happen to me and managed to get the bolt out using six sided sockets such as impact sockets.I'm really good at this stuff. I figured I'd whip the head off and find out what actually happened... Yeah, that is supposed to be an alloy engine block right? I've ended up twisting the edges off the firewall head bolt, so I'll have to go retrieve my engine crane and pull the motor out (and hopefully get that head bolt out). The two front head bolts ..... My breakers bar would be nearly 1meter long. I was bending it so far that it was almost impossible to hold the socket in positiion as the lever would hit something. How on earth are those bolts easily 500Nm ++ and there still be thread in the alloy block.
Oh, and the pushrod assembly has munched the threads on the bolt above No 8 cylinder (unrelated to me issues though this would be).
I just googled it... those head bolts should be 95Nm .... that is something I could undo with a standard ratchet..... Not fail with a 1meter breakers bar and impact socket!
The problem I'll have is once the engine is out. These head bolts are so tight, I'll be just turning the motor on the ground rather than loosening the bolts. This could be fun!
yeah that's what I'm using. I might need to chase up an impact 1/4 whitworth so its a bit tighter on the bolt. I can't get onto the bolt and hold the base of the breakers bar to stop it twisting off with the motor still in the car.You need to use six sided sockets and not your standard 12 point sockets when undoing bolts like this. I have had this like this happen to me and managed to get the bolt out using six sided sockets such as impact sockets.
I've got a 3/4" rattle gun that I can use once the motor is out. My father just turned up with my engine crane. We got the big jack handle and extended the breaker bar out to 2meters .... but just started twisting the socket off the head of the bolt again (even with me holding it against the bolt head and him pulling on the bar). The problem is you can't get an exactly straight pull at it while its still in the car. The head wasn't going to fall off that is for sure!!Does a rattle gun work in this situation? Obviously would need to be a bit more hairy chested than the little Ozito ones we have...