Wheel alignment tools

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Hi All,

I really only interested in toe in/out adjustments. Has anyone tried any of the tools that are available these days? Yes I know I can set the alignment using strings :) .... and have done several times. I have an old alignment system here (it died years ago) but I still have the turntables and all the bits and pieces that go with it.

Has anyone tried one of these ? Its a trackace laser.


Its also easy enough to mount laser pointers to the wheels if you have level floors and lots of space infront and set it that way (the laser dots are really just taking place of the strings). I'm hoping for something a little more simple someone may have come up with :)

seeya,
Shane L.
 
Yes... and no.

If you have the turntables and all the bits and pieces that go with it from a previous alignment system, then what's shown in the link will probably work very well.

I bought a complete old laser alignment system (lasers didn't work) and then fixed the lasers, and the system is excellent. So I'd imagine that's what you'd end up with.

(But might need some stuffing around to connect the laser to your gear. And would you need two sets of the eBay item?)
 
Yes... and no.

If you have the turntables and all the bits and pieces that go with it from a previous alignment system, then what's shown in the link will probably work very well.

I bought a complete old laser alignment system (lasers didn't work) and then fixed the lasers, and the system is excellent. So I'd imagine that's what you'd end up with.

(But might need some stuffing around to connect the laser to your gear. And would you need two sets of the eBay item?)
the alignment stuff here is the old sun system ... probably 70's/80s. All discrete components with strings that run between the wheels. Its not really worth repairing, though would be a fun project. I'm guessing just putting new capacitors in it would get it running again.

with old Citroens, the caster and camber isn't really ever touched. We are only interested in toe in ... and even with that "near enough is good enough" :)

To set the range rover last year I just used and extendable tent pole .....
 
the alignment stuff here is the old sun system ... probably 70's/80s. All discrete components with strings that run between the wheels. Its not really worth repairing, though would be a fun project. I'm guessing just putting new capacitors in it would get it running again.

with old Citroens, the caster and camber isn't really ever touched. We are only interested in toe in ... and even with that "near enough is good enough" :)

To set the range rover last year I just used and extendable tent pole .....
What I actually found the most interesting was to set the gear up (measuring toe) and then bounce the car. My Honda Insight had basically zero bounce steer - zero toe with suspension movement. I was very surprised.

I'd previously thought long and hard about making all my own alignment system, but when I bought the old broken system I realised it would have taken me a lot of effort to make the wheel attachments, adjustable plates, etc.

So if you start with those, adding some laser pointers sounds a good idea.
 
What I actually found the most interesting was to set the gear up (measuring toe) and then bounce the car. My Honda Insight had basically zero bounce steer - zero toe with suspension movement. I was very surprised.

I'd previously thought long and hard about making all my own alignment system, but when I bought the old broken system I realised it would have taken me a lot of effort to make the wheel attachments, adjustable plates, etc.

So if you start with those, adding some laser pointers sounds a good idea.

The one above only does toe in/out. I like the physics behind it. Its going to be very accurate. camber is easy enough to measure if you really feel the need with basic tools. Caster is the hard one.... but that's not really adjustable on anything I own. He explains how it works here. http://www.trackace.co.uk/
 
The only issue I have with this type of measurement is your measuring the overall toe-in. In theory you could have one wheel 2mm toe out and the other 4mm toe in, and the over-all value will be 2mm toe in.

To get around this I'd get the toe-in set to zero on the gauges first. Then if I wanted 2mm toe in I'd adjust each side one at a time, first side I'd get 1mm toe in, then the other I'd go fro 2mm toe in.
 
Shane get your head around this simple pair of plates. I think they are brilliant and am making a similar set out of some plywood and two cheap laser levels and two tapes. As you say the toe-in is normally the only important adjustment for tire life all things being OK mechanically. Rear independent suspension brings another adjustment that is important for crabbing too.
Jaahn
Tenhulzen Automotive DIY Wheel Alignment Tool, Accurate, fast, toe plates+camber
1644312841454.png
 
Shane get your head around this simple pair of plates. I think they are brilliant and am making a similar set out of some plywood and two cheap laser levels and two tapes. As you say the toe-in is normally the only important adjustment for tire life all things being OK mechanically. Rear independent suspension brings another adjustment that is important for crabbing too.
Jaahn
Tenhulzen Automotive DIY Wheel Alignment Tool, Accurate, fast, toe plates+camber
View attachment 200253
less to go wrong ... and excellent idea :) I like the physics behind the laser one above. the way it works reduces any errors you have made in measurements, rather than magnifying them :)

All you really need for super accuracy is some string lines. I'm looking to put a little less effort and space into it ... as I have all the cars here to check
 
Well what I want is an easier way than getting down on the concrete on my knees. I think this will cut that back a lot.
I gave up string lines years ago. Just mark the tires using masking tape and then roll the car so they are on the other side. Use a tape measure or a marked stick on legs.
Do both ends toe and then do the 'thrust line' by driving and adjusting the rear till it tracks well, steering wheel central. Hmm ! a lot of knee work !
Jaahn
PS the easiest way to waste $50-70 is to get a 'wheel alignment' done on a fancy machine with flashing lights and a computer screen, with your new tires. Even the computer print-out tells you they did nothing useful but move the car or the sensors a bit to get better readings.
 
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This is my toe out tool, a big pair of calipers essentially. It measures at 3 and 9 o'clock on the edge of the rim, to whatever accuracy you can read on a steel rule. What else do you need?
 

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This is my toe out tool, a big pair of calipers essentially. It measures at 3 and 9 o'clock on the edge of the rim, to whatever accuracy you can read on a steel rule. What else do you need?

Yep, that is going to work :) How on earth did you get it all square enough when you made it :clown: Just goes to show how many ways there is to skin a cat.

The big machines mentioned above? The users are the problem, they seem to have no idea what they are doing. And they ALWAYS screw up the straight running of a CX if you let them go near it.
 
like that one, made one in my youth but used a pair of telescopic steel tubes so it was adjustable... :)
Bob

The last few I have set with an extendable tent pole .... near enough :) The biggest problem is you need enough access under the car to extend the pole out.
 
I don't think I have ever used anything fancier than a tape measure.

Roger
Stick pins in the tread and measure at the back, roll forward and measure again. Difference is toe in or out... All you need is 6 mm dowel and a pencil (easier than a tape measure).
 
I always wondered if the rims are true enough to use for these measurements.

Shane, you could make that tool with some flat bar and bolts so you can adjust squareness/parallelism of the arms perfectly. I have no welding options, so that would be my choice.
 
How on earth did you get it all square enough when you made it :clown:
It doesn't matter if it's square or not. It's just the difference between the 3 and 9 o'clock measurements and it's easy to slide in under the car without hurting your back or getting dirty.
 
I don't even move the car. I just measure from a tyre tread groove on the front of one front wheel to a groove on the other front wheel, then make a measurement between corresponding grooves across the rear of the tyre. I end up measuring the tyre at about 4 and 8 o'clock rather than 3 and 9 but you can make allowances for that. My method is rough but good enough. The proof of the pudding is in how the car drives and how the tyres wear, not how it measures.

Roger
 
Well I did order one of those toe in laser things in.... As I have five ... er... maybe 6 cars to check. Its pretty much paid for itself if its used on just the CX (imagine the frustration and multiple attempts at different alignment places to try and get it right as no-one understands what needs to be done). And lets be honest here .... I just wanted a new tool to play with :dance:

Maybe I'm just getting lazy as I get older :clown:
 
Bob's contribution from long ago..... :)

DSC00053a.JPG


camber gauge, if you didn't guess, just needs a sinker and a bit of fishing line.
Bob
 
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