Update on C5 non starter

jaahn said:
Hi Dimi:)
That's disappointing.:(
Looking at picture 5 i see it says EVM deactivated. Does anyone know what that means. Is the 'electro valve main' turned off by the ECU ?? Why ? I must say the Lexia side is not my best side :) You said you activated it, can you do so with it running.
Jaahn
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EVM I think it's Evaluation Mode or Egg & Veal MacMuffin maybe. No it's displayed as a percentage of activation time. Based on sufficient oil pres of course. And I don't know what the default time should be %100 maybe.
 
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Well after delays in starting the task of removing the AL4 auto out of this non running C5, I finally done it with a borrowed engine bar hoist, a good trolley jack and 1 x balljoint breaker (which I had to buy in the end as no one could find theirs on Saturday):cry:

I had most bits already disconnected a couple of weeks ago, so 2 hours on Saturday until I realised I really really needed a balljoint breaker. And 4 hours today pull the box out myself.

The most difficult part was disconnecting the exhaust with the spring steel clamp and no working space, there must be trick to this but no time to Google just brute force. And all the imperial bolts (may have been 16mm but who the hell has a 16mm socket or spanner in their toolbox!):crazy:

I have discovered that the left hand tie rod end needs a new boot does anyone know what standard car replacement boot fits the C5?, I may have to order a new tie rod end unless someone has a spare one they want to sell or I can work out what rubber boot will fit.
:banana:


Well know the decision has to made, to go with using working parts from a petrol AL4 to go into the diesel AL4 by QLD Automatics at some hourly rate :crazy:, or find a replacement. I still have 2 more to investigate. There is a working unit on the Gold Coast but shudders in 3rd and settles down at highway speed according to the yard owner, no real way to check as vehicle is now un-driveable as sitting in a wreckers yard jammed in a corner, cant even get around it to check if engine mounts are perished so best to not take the gamble.

See what pans out with the others.

Wow just noticed the date of my previous post, just about a month of faffing about :(
 
Having your own ball splitter is a very good thing. Yes, you will need a 16mm socket and combination spanner, as that size is very common on citroen cars, as is 9,11, and sometimes 21mm.
I also recommend getting a set of deep reach sockets from 8 to 22mm, a 36mm for the front driveshaft hub nut, and a set of deep cranked ring spanners. These items are invaluable, I have many different kinds of spanners so if one spanner won't fit due to access, maybe one a different shape will.
 
Hi Dimi,

Waiting with bated breath to see what you find wrong in your gearbox. You will find that one of the spark plug socket sizes is close enough to 16 mm and is usually a deep socket - just right for engine mount nuts and bolts.

Cheers, Ken
 
Ken I have been using my imperial set which has a short, long socket and ring spanner very handy as 16mm replacement..
Question for you, the turbo to intercooler short hose behind the engine is very oily, possibly just weeping from a loose hose clip are these a failure point?

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Waiting with baited breath on the AL4 being cracked open to see what the issue is with no forward or reverse gears.
I had checked the F2 brake band on James's recommendation but this was all OK. So now sitting with James at Queensland Automatics in Geebung. :)(Snootygribble according to another post going round) :crazy:

Finger crossed not a big issue...........
 
Well had a surprising call from the auto repairer this avo, it seems the only issue with the box IS the clutch plates :cool: which was my 1st diagnosis but continued down the garden path :tongue: So he will swap over the shaft and plates from the doner box, check its all clear, as there was the fine metal sludge as I found in the solenoid cover. Good to have it checkered over, should be back today or tomorrow morning for the long weekend install. Next ECU to be sorted if the battery disconnect hasn't cleared some faults.
 
The AL4 is back together again, new oil filter, one new bush, a couple of drive shaft and an oil pump oil seals I provided, swapped of clutch plates from another s/h box, and she's ready to collect.

Talk to James at Queensland Automatics (in Geebung) as he seems to know these boxes very well, and very open with with suggestions, work required etc

A good cash price for labor only so I'm happy. :D

Not sure Ill have time on Sunday to install so may take Monday off for good measure. :roflmao:
 
Oh it won't be that simple smiffy ... :D
 
Armidillo said:
Oh it won't be that simple smiffy ... :D
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It was with Ricardo's C5 v6. As soon as we put in the good autobox everything worked, no faults came up, and it drives like a new car.
It made such a difference, it didn't even need to go on the Lexia. It just drove like a NORMAL car..
 
...It just drove like a NORMAL car....

:nownow:

It must drive like a Citroen...
 
Update 50% gearbox in position. Line up converter and box and tighten bolts as required. Managed to replace the worn tie rod end and 2 rear suspension cushions (?) I think that's what they are called. But found a torn rear hydraulic boot below one of the trailing arms. Need to investigate how to replace these and what they are called. Also tracked down a replacement Comm2000 which should sort the remaining electrical ECU issues after my dumb mistake with the jump start connection reversal (see other post). 😢

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dimistyle said:
Also tracked down a replacement Comm2000 which should sort the remaining electrical ECU issues after my dumb mistake with the jump start connection reversal (see other post). ��

I can see how that would be easily done on a C5. I almost made that mistake myself yesterday. Who ever heard of marking the POSITIVE with black, and the NEGATIVE terminals with green?
Black , in Australian cars at least, normally means Negative.
I put some RED insulation tape on my Positive wire so I won't do that again.
Cheers..
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Quick update, all assembled and everything torqued on, just the gear change cable to be adjusted and check all hoses and cables are connected, not leaking and should be up and running tomorrow. I also ordered a replacement rear gaiter for the rear hydraulic actuator from fleabay so I have a couple of weeks to work out if I will attempt that task .😩 anyone replaced one before?

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301742743307

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dimistyle said:
Quick update, all assembled and everything torqued on, just the gear change cable to be adjusted and check all hoses and cables are connected, not leaking and should be up and running tomorrow. I also ordered a replacement rear gaiter for the rear hydraulic actuator from fleabay so I have a couple of weeks to work out if I will attempt that task .�� anyone replaced one before?

Look at this on eBay Genuine Rear Suspension Cylinder Rubber Boot For Citroen C5 MK1 & MK2 527264 | eBay

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Wow, that's pretty cheap. I've done one on a DS over 20 years ago, probably 30, but not so far on a C5. You would have to depressurise, ( this can only be done using the Lexia, afaik). Then disconnect the car battery so the hydraulics cannot pump. Then disconnect the pipes , then remove the actuator assembly. It's just a lot easier to work on it when it's not under the car. Plug the hydraulic pipe on the car body so you don't lose all your LDS fluid. Change the boot , refit, connect the pipes. Good luck with it.
 
A job for when it's mobile. Does seem like easy enough. The clips look clean so not seized. Need to also inject 25mls of LDS after assembly
See if Ken has a spare quart in a glass jar😉

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