Tool Talk
- Thread starter jo proffi
- Start date
The shank of the screw should be unthreaded where it passed between the two layers of wood.
impact wrenchs will easily drive these in as well. probably even without a pilot hole (depending on the wood, as you don't want it to splinter). impact drivers don't strain your wrists or arms at all. they are like rattle guns on tight nuts.
Hi.
Recently I fitted a wall clothes line and also replaced the handmade door in my sons old garden shed which involved packing for a narrower and shorter door. The shed was originally constructed in 1975 and the hardwood studs, top plates and noggins are very hard. I cannot nail into it. When you force screws into it for a hinge, the screw just shears when the driving torque overcomes the tight thread into the hardwood.
So I was forced to treat the hardwood almost like metal. I had ended up drilling through holes and used bolts and nuts. But in other areas I drilled a pilot hole for the screw thread slightly larger than the minor diameter of the thread, and clearance holes for the balance of thread and shank in the clamped piece.
I know I am using metal machine screw thread terminology for timber, but I didn't have any choice but to do as described above. It was a fiddley job.
Cheers.
Recently I fitted a wall clothes line and also replaced the handmade door in my sons old garden shed which involved packing for a narrower and shorter door. The shed was originally constructed in 1975 and the hardwood studs, top plates and noggins are very hard. I cannot nail into it. When you force screws into it for a hinge, the screw just shears when the driving torque overcomes the tight thread into the hardwood.
So I was forced to treat the hardwood almost like metal. I had ended up drilling through holes and used bolts and nuts. But in other areas I drilled a pilot hole for the screw thread slightly larger than the minor diameter of the thread, and clearance holes for the balance of thread and shank in the clamped piece.
I know I am using metal machine screw thread terminology for timber, but I didn't have any choice but to do as described above. It was a fiddley job.
Cheers.
This sort of wood doesn't seem to exist any more. everything is soaking wet shitty pine. you reckon screwing inot it was hard. Try and pull a nail out of it that's been in it sinces the 70s!
When I built my work bench in my shed 36 years ago in a shed that was most likely built in the 60's, I used 4" nails and housing joints to build the work bench. The wood for the work bench was hard wood that came from an old demolition which was most likely built in the early part of last century. The work bench is 6 metres long and 1 metre wide.
To nail it together I drill holes in the outer wood that was the same diameter as the 4" nail and the inner that was a size under the diameter. The nails still needed a fair bit of driving to get them in.
No Battery drill back then, would of been drilled with my mains powered Makita 1/2" chuck or AEG 3/8 chuck drills that I still have.
Back in the days when I wore a nail bag we always had a bar of beeswax in the side pocket when using hardwood, wax was rubbed on the side of the nail before bashing it in. It didn't always work but mostly it did. Sometimes the sweat off your brow was enough to encourage a nail to go in too. Then finally we had softwood and nail guns, we all rejoiced after that. Except when a nail hit a knot and came back out to bite us.
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Don't have to buy into various 'coloured' tools, and stay with their specific batteries nowadays as adaptors have arrived.
Just buy skins for a specific tool and use an adaptor with your favoured brand tools battery......
Just buy skins for a specific tool and use an adaptor with your favoured brand tools battery......
Repowering your drill 
Seems perfectly reasonable.Repowering your drill
Nifty power unit, capable of providing power to any number of "heath Robinson" tool setups with suitable linkages, the mind boggles, but more so with the ultra clean workshop, bench top, and machinery that guy has. Now that is something I would have liked 20 years ago! Wonder what those model engines cost! Happy Christmas all. Thanks for posting the video.
Ken
Thanks for posting the video.Ken
Damn socket head screws...
Just did a minor job in the Kangoo van and discover yet another Torx, "IP" you can undo the devils with a standard "T" bit but they wont do up tight again as the "T" bit is a tad loose in the recess. I was just lucky enough to have one of those box assortments of bits with the right size in it.
The variations continue to grow exponentially. Remember when screws just had those gummed up slots in 'em....
Bob
Just did a minor job in the Kangoo van and discover yet another Torx, "IP" you can undo the devils with a standard "T" bit but they wont do up tight again as the "T" bit is a tad loose in the recess. I was just lucky enough to have one of those box assortments of bits with the right size in it.
The variations continue to grow exponentially. Remember when screws just had those gummed up slots in 'em....
Bob
Damn socket head screws...
Just did a minor job in the Kangoo van and discover yet another Torx, "IP" you can undo the devils with a standard "T" bit but they wont do up tight again as the "T" bit is a tad loose in the recess. I was just lucky enough to have one of those box assortments of bits with the right size in it.
The variations continue to grow exponentially. Remember when screws just had those gummed up slots in 'em....
Bob
i bought a torx set like this years ago. its amazing the force I've had on those torx bits without breaking them.
40pcs Allen Key Torx Star Spline Hex 3/8"&1/2" Socket Bit Set Drive Long Deep AU | eBay
Allen Key Torx Hex Star Spline Socket Set. - Set of 40 hex, torx and spline bits made from Alloy Steel. - 7 x Torx Short 30mm Bits - T20, T25, T30, T40, T50, T55. - 7 x Torx Long 75mm Bits - T20, T25, T30, T40, T50, T55.
www.ebay.com.au
For some reason my compressor (El-Cheapo, 'Workzone') decided to throw all its oil over the floor, not while it was running but while 'parked.' Initially couldn't see where it was coming from but suspicion fell on the joint at the rear of the crankcase. Undid this to find there was a perforated rubber diaphragm over the whole area which seemed to have slightly 'shrunk.' Not sure of the purpose of this but guessing its to separate the outer chamber with the oil level window from the inner agitated sump. Casting around for something to remake the joint I had some Loctite MR-GS2 sealant from another job that seemed thick, gooey & high-tack so plastered both faces with this, the outer case has a channel to take a lip on the diaphragm. Gave it 24Hrs before refilling oil then only refilled a bit to start with. So far so good but admittedly not yet been used 'in anger' - a few times in the past out at the bush block its been used intensively enough in full sun to trigger the thermal cutout
Regards,
Rob
Regards,
Rob
About 20 years ago my son was working in the Detroit area. He found a huge hardware shop that he was browsing through, and the most remarkable tools in there were the petrol powered range. With engines similar to the brush-cutters, there were heavy duty drills (for fence posts, etc), very handy in the wilderness areas before the days of decent cordless tools. But the tool that took his fancy was a petrol powered CAKE MIXER. Now that's camping.Repowering your drill
You'd want to keep the petrol and the cake mix separate...About 20 years ago my son was working in the Detroit area. He found a huge hardware shop that he was browsing through, and the most remarkable tools in there were the petrol powered range. With engines similar to the brush-cutters, there were heavy duty drills (for fence posts, etc), very handy in the wilderness areas before the days of decent cordless tools. But the tool that took his fancy was a petrol powered CAKE MIXER. Now that's camping.
Amazing how many torx sets I seem to have accumulated, but when I was at Echuca recently using my 14 inch MAC 3200 chain saw, the size needed to change and sharpen the saw hadn't been bought up from Melbourne.
Plenty of odd Torx bits and so forth and many sets of flat screwdrivers in the shed. Damn easier to buy a whole new set at Bunnings and on special.
I'd hate to count up the sets of screwdrivers and so forth lying about here in Melbourne, and to think how much I hated buying additional spanners when metric hit our shores all those years ago.
Incidently in my hunting around on the internet for information on the Mac and spares. I find it is now in the "Collectible class" for those looking for old chainsaws to restore and use. amusing
Ken
Plenty of odd Torx bits and so forth and many sets of flat screwdrivers in the shed. Damn easier to buy a whole new set at Bunnings and on special.
I'd hate to count up the sets of screwdrivers and so forth lying about here in Melbourne, and to think how much I hated buying additional spanners when metric hit our shores all those years ago.
Incidently in my hunting around on the internet for information on the Mac and spares. I find it is now in the "Collectible class" for those looking for old chainsaws to restore and use. amusing
Ken
Wow ... there is just nothing to them. Not even a full crank!For some reason my compressor (El-Cheapo, 'Workzone') decided to throw all its oil over the floor, not while it was running but while 'parked.' Initially couldn't see where it was coming from but suspicion fell on the joint at the rear of the crankcase. Undid this to find there was a perforated rubber diaphragm over the whole area which seemed to have slightly 'shrunk.' Not sure of the purpose of this but guessing its to separate the outer chamber with the oil level window from the inner agitated sump. Casting around for something to remake the joint I had some Loctite MR-GS2 sealant from another job that seemed thick, gooey & high-tack so plastered both faces with this, the outer case has a channel to take a lip on the diaphragm. Gave it 24Hrs before refilling oil then only refilled a bit to start with. So far so good but admittedly not yet been used 'in anger' - a few times in the past out at the bush block its been used intensively enough in full sun to trigger the thermal cutout
Regards,
Rob
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My best power tool culinary effort is whipping cream with a bent fork in a power drill.
Roger
Roger