Or North Korean prison.
Tool Talk
- Thread starter jo proffi
- Start date
This is a pretty good tool kit to keep in your car.... I bought one for the shtibox range rover years ago. The tools appear to be very good quality (not taht I have needed to use them .... I make sure I never use the toolkit in the car .... otherwise it'll all be missing the day I need it 
)
www.4wdsupacentre.com.au
you could probably add a multimeter, some lengths of wire and a bunch of cable ties to it.
)Home Page - Adventure Kings
www.4wdsupacentre.com.au
you could probably add a multimeter, some lengths of wire and a bunch of cable ties to it.
If anyone doesn't owned enough tools / machinery, here is a new universe of good quality, reasonably priced, equipment for everything you think you will ever do, but probably won't. I have purchased a few items from this company, and I've been very pleased with all of it
www.vevor.com.au
TOUGH TOOLS, HALF PRICE | VEVOR AU
VEVOR offers a full range of equipment & tools, kitchen supplies, home & garden service, etc. Shop our premium products at affordable prices.
www.vevor.com.au
I did buy the hydraulic pump unit from them. Incredible really for $270 delivered. I believe the 3hp rating, it dims every light through the entire house as the start circuit is very power hungry.If anyone doesn't owned enough tools / machinery, here is a new universe of good quality, reasonably priced, equipment for everything you think you will ever do, but probably won't. I have purchased a few items from this company, and I've been very pleased with all of it
TOUGH TOOLS, HALF PRICE | VEVOR AU
VEVOR offers a full range of equipment & tools, kitchen supplies, home & garden service, etc. Shop our premium products at affordable prices.
Perhaps OK for tools to be used once in a crisis - 179.00 for that lot is impossibly cheapThis is a pretty good tool kit to keep in your car.... I bought one for the shtibox range rover years ago. The tools appear to be very good quality (not taht I have needed to use them .... I make sure I never use the toolkit in the car .... otherwise it'll all be missing the day I need it
Home Page - Adventure Kings
you could probably add a multimeter, some lengths of wire and a bunch of cable ties to it.
The unfortunate reality is that good tools are not cheap and that cheap tools ( unless you‘ve scored a bargain at an old mechanic‘s clean out because nobody else knew what they were looking at ) are not good.
We are also showing our age by even considering having tools in the car with us!
Andrew
i think they were $129.... when I linked that add. They are better quality than a lot of the other tools I own and use.
G'day,
looking at "nut riveters" - like a pop rivet gun but sets a threaded insert. Want enough grunt to handle M6 inserts, anyone had experience with these things.
Kincrome K4900 biggie looks nice, Wolf WRS000 similar style but cheaper, both get good reviews.
Bob
looking at "nut riveters" - like a pop rivet gun but sets a threaded insert. Want enough grunt to handle M6 inserts, anyone had experience with these things.
Kincrome K4900 biggie looks nice, Wolf WRS000 similar style but cheaper, both get good reviews.
Bob
I bought a cheap kit off EBay several years ago. It does up to 8mm in diameter and came with a selection of aluminium and steel nutserts. The 8mm steel ones are a bit of a workout to crimp into place however the 6mm steel and 8mm alloy ones it does easily. I would imagine any brand name one would be better at the job than mine.
I've used mine a lot, they are a great idea and I've never had any issues with the inserts spinning or coming loose.
I have Kinchrome but not that one (K4700). Mine has a "normal" handpiece and it's a bit of an effort to do 6mm inserts but I wouldn't say it is the tool's fault. I am probably too weak. I did however bend one of the pull rods, I think the 4mm one? Something like that. Which probably means they are not a high grade tool steel. Does the job though and for my needs it's good enough. I would expect the one you linked is better.
thanks fellas. See on youtube there are alternative methods of fixing these 'riv-nuts' with collections of spacers and nuts and a suitable bolt all driven by your impact driver....
Reckon that the pliers would be easier to control. Visit to the shops to compare 'em called for.... Lots of specials on line too.
Bob
Reckon that the pliers would be easier to control. Visit to the shops to compare 'em called for....
Lots of specials on line too.Bob
Mine is the Spiralux 2743. It is in a kit (2745) with mandrels and inserts for M4, M5, M6 and M8. It's OK but not super strong. You have to be careful when threading the mandrels into it.
Roger
Roger
Considering how easy it is using 3/16 steel pops with the long arm riveters, tongs are even better, I'd reckon that the long arm versions have to be a better choice for my chosen M6 riv-nuts than the smaller single handed pliers.
Bob
Bob
Have you ever gone looking for a tool that might come under the category "things you want but don't exist?" - plenty times in my case but here's just one (that I needed two days ago).
Tap and die set - we've all got one, set of taps of different sizes, ditto dies, then a driver for the taps with (usually) two arms that clamp the tap at the top, then driver for the dies (usually) two arms that clamp the die around its central plane. Therein lies the problem - if you're tapping a hole and there's other studs/obstructions sticking up around chances are you'll get clearance for the arms of the driver, same situation threading/cleaning a stud and bang you've hit the obstruction after half a turn. Why are there no 'offset' clamping holders for dies - I've asked in several tool suppliers - just get a blank look. Before you tell me to extract the obstructing stud first, yes I know but try that on a rusty exhaust flange that's been in place for seventeen years when you're up against the clock to get the job finished
Tap and die set - we've all got one, set of taps of different sizes, ditto dies, then a driver for the taps with (usually) two arms that clamp the tap at the top, then driver for the dies (usually) two arms that clamp the die around its central plane. Therein lies the problem - if you're tapping a hole and there's other studs/obstructions sticking up around chances are you'll get clearance for the arms of the driver, same situation threading/cleaning a stud and bang you've hit the obstruction after half a turn. Why are there no 'offset' clamping holders for dies - I've asked in several tool suppliers - just get a blank look. Before you tell me to extract the obstructing stud first, yes I know but try that on a rusty exhaust flange that's been in place for seventeen years when you're up against the clock to get the job finished
Not strictly a tool, but a solution to a problem.
Getting dry Flying Fox dung off the car duco.
Neighbour has palm trees and the Flying Fox/s frequent them, followed by a bombing run on their departure, often on our cars. I regularly check the cars so that I can remove any while still fresh as it becomes rock hard when it dries. Well, recently I missed one and it wasn't coming off, so I had an epiphany. I got some paper towel from kitchen, folded over several times and soaked it in water and placed over the offending dung to rehydrate it. I left it for 15 minutes and it easily wiped off on my return.
Getting dry Flying Fox dung off the car duco.
Neighbour has palm trees and the Flying Fox/s frequent them, followed by a bombing run on their departure, often on our cars. I regularly check the cars so that I can remove any while still fresh as it becomes rock hard when it dries. Well, recently I missed one and it wasn't coming off, so I had an epiphany. I got some paper towel from kitchen, folded over several times and soaked it in water and placed over the offending dung to rehydrate it. I left it for 15 minutes and it easily wiped off on my return.
If there's not much room for the tap handle I use a 1/4" drive 12 point socket on the square of the tap and a 1/4" drive ratchet.Have you ever gone looking for a tool that might come under the category "things you want but don't exist?" - plenty times in my case but here's just one (that I needed two days ago).
Tap and die set - we've all got one, set of taps of different sizes, ditto dies, then a driver for the taps with (usually) two arms that clamp the tap at the top, then driver for the dies (usually) two arms that clamp the die around its central plane. Therein lies the problem - if you're tapping a hole and there's other studs/obstructions sticking up around chances are you'll get clearance for the arms of the driver, same situation threading/cleaning a stud and bang you've hit the obstruction after half a turn. Why are there no 'offset' clamping holders for dies - I've asked in several tool suppliers - just get a blank look. Before you tell me to extract the obstructing stud first, yes I know but try that on a rusty exhaust flange that's been in place for seventeen years when you're up against the clock to get the job finished
My dies have a dimple in the side and are secured by a grub screw. I cut a 3/8" drive socket (that the dies fitted into snugly) down so the dies sat flush with the "new" edge and drilled and tapped a hole for the grub screw. I use a stumpy 3/8" drive ratchet if there's not much room.
You can also use extension bars to drive it from a distance. Good for cleaning up manifold studs.
I only used a cheap socket, not sure how you'd go drilling/tapping a high quality one.
if you're just cleaning up a threaded stud etc, get a die nut, also a better alternative than subjecting your expensive split button dies to all that abrasive rusty crud....
'stick' die holders are commonly used in the tail-stock of any lathe but are expensive unless you want to make your own.
Bob
Years ago I purchased an absolutely worked ot death hitachi impact wrench from crime converters. 3/4" inch .... it crackles and pops and runs like an arc welder across the brushes.... the switch only randomly works in the "unscrew" direction. It probably only grumbles away at 50% power/speed. But its still never failed to unscrew a fastener...... Last time I used it I let a lot of smoke out ( very tight, thread locked crank bolt on the 407). It still works, but overheats due to arcing if run for more than 15seconds.
anyway look what popped on an ebay last week.....for a buy it now of $150 ..... what a bloody ripper. it runs smoothly at twice the speed of the one that lets the smoke out ..... and the switch works properly in both directions. I reckon its had little use as its got a rental company scribed into the case. (use once and return type deal).
Does anyone need some big bolts sheared off so I can give it a good workout ?
They aren't a dinky little electric toy ..... its this thing here:
they weigh just on 5kgs
anyway look what popped on an ebay last week.....for a buy it now of $150 ..... what a bloody ripper. it runs smoothly at twice the speed of the one that lets the smoke out ..... and the switch works properly in both directions. I reckon its had little use as its got a rental company scribed into the case. (use once and return type deal).
Does anyone need some big bolts sheared off so I can give it a good workout ?
They aren't a dinky little electric toy ..... its this thing here:
they weigh just on 5kgs
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I bought one of these a few years back....
Cheap Ebay item. 480nm supposedly - 1/2 inch so I have a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter for bigger sockets, and it's removed multiple crank bolts, driveshaft bolts and basically anything it's been pointed at. The crank bolt on the 308 HDi did require a little heat to soften the factory loktite.....
I got sick of hiring one, using it once, and returning it.............
Cheers
Justin
Cheap Ebay item. 480nm supposedly - 1/2 inch so I have a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter for bigger sockets, and it's removed multiple crank bolts, driveshaft bolts and basically anything it's been pointed at. The crank bolt on the 308 HDi did require a little heat to soften the factory loktite.....
I got sick of hiring one, using it once, and returning it.............
Cheers
Justin