Tool Talk

Unless something has changed recently, Aldi (Workzone) spanners aren't crappy at all. They aren't always Chinese either - I have some Indian ones and they are good.
 
DoubleChevron said:
Nice, it's half price at the moment. I've have the equivelant cheap as merde spanner set to the one aldi is selling. So I'd just buy one or two of the crappy ALDI sets (if require). And grind the 32mm down to 31 and the 30 down to 29mm :) See what I mean by needing lots of these cheap shitty spanners to modify!
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Having spent some time on the tools I'm intrigued as to how taking material off the jaws of spanners somehow reduces the gap size? Am I missing something here?
 
I did miss the bleedingly obvious. D.C. is talking about the thickness of the spanners! ;)
 
:r
Kim Luck said:
Having spent some time on the tools I'm intrigued as to how taking material off the jaws of spanners somehow reduces the gap size? Am I missing something here?
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:ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: Yeah I worked that out well didn't I .... would you believe that was deliberate :clown: Don't worry, I know what I meant .... I think :rolleyes:
 
Just when you thought you'd seen every 'how to get a broken bolt out of a hole' videos....
This one is very impressive

 
So do we export cattle dogs?

Thanks for posting - now I just need a MIG welder!
 
20% off might mean they start to approach other places normal prices. With the cars you have, doesn't someone local give you trade?
 
They must think people quite uninformed to make a claim like this about the lift.
I reckon you could buy 3 similar lifts for that price

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I hear you, but you can see that they specify the brand, and they appear to cost around $3000
It's part of a promotional 'prize' so a bit of hyperbole probably doesn't matter, but that is quite a difference
 
Avid readers will already know I've been having "challenges" with special tools for Citroens - or lack of them. Anyway I awoke the hub removal tool (1750-T) from its slumbers then discovered I didn't have the (1826-T) special spanner for the weird nut holding the inner bearing / driveshaft in - now got one - thanks again 'Buttercup.' Having delved as far as the inner bearing I then discovered I needed another gismo to get the bearing out (1824-T). However being as the Traction isn't the only car needing work and being as some of the other cars (shock, horror :eek:) aren't even French I looked around to see if something more "Universal" could be used. Narrowed in on a 'Daytona DSLHPU' slide hammer & puller kit. Do you think I could get an answer as to the maximum / minimum dimensions the thing could cope with? Tried the "Live chat" on the website first - no dice, rang the nearest stockist who dragged one of the shelf there & then but - "Oh its got no paperwork." Agreed with them that {while they chased their "importer" for an answer} I'd bring in the (same sized) outer bearing for a 'trial fit.' Did this on Thursday & satisfied it would do the job left with the kit:
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Today I got to play with it and it made short work of getting the bearings out:
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only minor issue was that the 'internal/external' cone thats supposed to hold the "claws" either spread for internal pulling or contracted for external pull was too big to allow the claws to go through the middle of the bearing in 'fully retracted' position. I achieved the same effect by finding a round bar just big enough to go through the middle of the assembly & pack out the claws against the bearing surface. After that I was a happy little hammerer :D
 
If that bearing is in a blind hole/bore you can also try to pack the space behind it with grease and push a close fit dowel through the inner bearing race until it contacts the grease then whack it with a hammer. Not apeshit hard. The bearing should come out little by little (you need to repack the grease a bit to compensate for whatever will squeeze through the bearing). Cheap and effortless.

Some key points.

The grease needs to be well packed so there is no air trapped in, the dowel needs to be a close fit, you need to make sure it contacts the grease and (hopefully) the bearing is closed (shields/seals in place). Works even with the most stubborn bearings or even bushings like those in the flywheel (g'box input shaft pilot). The input shaft itself is very well suited to play the dowel in this case.
 
schlitzaugen said:
If that bearing is in a blind hole/bore you can also try to pack the space behind it with grease and push a close fit dowel through the inner bearing race until it contacts the grease then whack it with a hammer. Not apeshit hard. The bearing should come out little by little (you need to repack the grease a bit to compensate for whatever will squeeze through the bearing). Cheap and effortless.

Some key points.

The grease needs to be well packed so there is no air trapped in, the dowel needs to be a close fit, you need to make sure it contacts the grease and (hopefully) the bearing is closed (shields/seals in place). Works even with the most stubborn bearings or even bushings like those in the flywheel (g'box input shaft pilot). The input shaft itself is very well suited to play the dowel in this case.
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That's how everyone removes spigot bushes and bearings!
 
Well, that's certainly the only method I used in the past when I couldn't find pilot bearing pullers and later when I could but they were out of my price range and pretty much now as well, just 'cos it's fun.

Besides, there's always another bearing you need to pull out of some casting or similar, which is too small for the pilot bearing puller you bought last time you had a job to do and the smallest pilot bearing puller you had was too large.

Which was when I realised it would be much easier to have a lathe and turn close fitting dowels to any size I needed. So I bought a lathe.

Like I said, fun.

Watch Bad Obsession Motorsport's video on rebuilding the Celica g'box and you'll see some very clever ways to remove bushings, bearings, seals and other crap like that from blind holes without the Toyota special service tools (who the heck has those?!).
 
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Fordman said:
Just bought a decent brick cutter for a few big jobs coming up.
From Able Machinery - $950 - sounds expensive but cheap for one of these. Have bought Able stuff before, no frills Chinese made, but pretty rugged construction, semi-commercial use.
One would think it best to hire a brick cutter, but at $150 per day, I thought how pissed off I would be when I went down for the seventh day to hire one! Also then you are on a time limit every time, and loading on and off the trailer - no thanks.
I have this garden bed to edge (1st job), then the carport to be paved with probably about 100 pavers to be cut (2nd job) and then about 80 square metres of driveway paving with curved borders. Now whether or not I do it myself, or get a young fella to help me, still need a brick cutter.
When I went to pick it up it was in a bigger box than expected, lucky I took the trailer.
It is heavy, about 85kgs, needs 2 blokes to move it around.
I've got it set up under a portable gazebo and today used it for the first time. Cuts through these 80mm thick x 270mm deep concrete blocks with ease, although I did push it a bit too hard (see video) and it stalled, but recovered when load taken off. Have since cut quite a few blocks with a steady even light pressure and it does a great job.

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Further to the above thread:
https://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/index.php?threads/tool-talk.85075/post-1689349

I have since carried out a few mods to the brick/block saw, mainly to improve the water flow to stop the dust. After fiddling with the water nozzles a bit, I found hidden behind the frame, the main water pipe to the saw was crimped enough to virtually block the supply, don't know how I didn't see that earlier. Released a couple of cable ties and straightened the hose, all good.
Now it sprayed enough water to stop the dust, but I ended up with the fence about 2 metres away covered in "mud"! Also quite a lot of wastage of water which needed topping up. Solved with a little frame out the back and a trailer mudflap to deflect water/dust downwards, worked but still wasting water. Thought about a recycle pump, then went KISS and added a rectangular bucket to catch the water and mud. Works a treat, makes the unit very clean and usable. (see photos)

Now I'm getting a bit more creative, and had a go at splitting my big blocks in half to cover twice the length, when I don't need the height for the garden borders. These will be used to contain brick pavers on a pathway. We like the split gravel finish, but the big blocks are the only size available. Splitting also makes it more economical of course. Used the brick saw at max height to cut in 10mm each side, then used a bolster and hammer to split the block. Makes a very neat job, and super quick and easy. Brick saw paying for itself nicely.

Video of the final splitting technique:

01_Water Flow Improved_red.jpg02_Recycle_red.jpg03_Full Blocks_red.jpg04_Shallow Cut_red.jpg05_Production Line_red.jpg06_Split Block_red.jpg
 
Kenfuego said:
Fordman commercial paving venture coming up? :D !
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TBO!

(Too Bloody Old).

Although with about 110 square metres of driveway paving to be done - not far from the truth. But a younger neighbour, I think unemployed, says he used to do paving, so I might pay him to do the bending, and I can slave away at the brick saw!
 
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