Tool Talk

Thanks Rob,

robmac said:
In actual fact, the thread of the fitting that screws in to the brass body of nearly all capsule type mixer taps is 10mm /1.0mm pitch. Taps are hard to come by. :)
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yep, the new ceramic mixer we picked up looks to have that spec - without resorting to the calipers.... :)

Reeces had fittings for the fancy water tap we found for the water tank pump, 7/16" 24tpi. They said it probably came from a filter kit - plastic fittings they supplied are to suit a 1/4" LLDPE line. All cheap enough to toss if the flow rate turns out to be unsatisfactory.

We picked a Davey SJ35-04PC pump to feed it, and the toilet cistern if we have a mind to... hmm, might be a rebate for that.... :tongue:

cheers,
Bob
 
mail order traps...

G'day,

well, the postie just delivered a nice new holesaw for the downlights, new downlights, new saw cos the old big bugger is not right for the new lights, is it, of course.... :rolleyes:

Thought, bugger it, I'll support the local guy with a known brand.... selected a Sutton 92mm TCT.

The mongrels have changed the arbor design !! and whilst it looks like the blade fitting detaches so that you can use the old arbor that you've had for decades the buggers have made the attachment screws that tight they'll be in there forever..... :mad:

So, in for the second round of P&P, for the bloody arbor.... :mad:

cheers,
Bob
 
Well I htought the old shitbox here needed a new rear diff due to all the lash in its arse end. I rolled it up on the ramps a few days ago to see what was involved and found this.



so yeah... bottom line, I'm a moron and the suspension is flopping around all over the place 'cos the bushes are flogged out. I've been pulling it apart ... and this ...

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$99 POS ozito impact wrench is just incredible .... rather than wedging spanners in one side of bolts, and using breaker bars and heavy hammers to try and break everything ... this little thing has rattled everything undone I've tried it on so far. even upto 32mm suspension bolts.... incredible! Why didn't I have one of these decades ago :clown:

seeya,
Shane L.
 
Slow learner I guess, like me....

My battery-powered rattle gun is my best friend. I've only needed it twice, for about half a second each time. Without it? Horror.....

That didn't look much like a CX, and the diff is at the wrong end...
 
JohnW said:
Slow learner I guess, like me....

My battery-powered rattle gun is my best friend. I've only needed it twice, for about half a second each time. Without it? Horror.....

That didn't look much like a CX, and the diff is at the wrong end...
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The CX will not tow 4 tons and drive the fire trails each day to work :) .... er, well possibly it would, but its not the best thing for it!
 
I've also got one - can't remember if it was on your recommendation...

As you said - it's very effective. Lithium battery doesn't go flat if I don't use it for a while, so it's always ready for use.

Only thing I've found it can't undo is wheel nuts on Landcruiser steel wheels - correct torque is 154 ft lbs.

On the other hand, although tightening torque is not adjustable, I haven't broken much, as it's not a super-powerful unit.

Cheers

Alec
 
Armidillo said:
I've also got one - can't remember if it was on your recommendation...

As you said - it's very effective. Lithium battery doesn't go flat if I don't use it for a while, so it's always ready for use.

Only thing I've found it can't undo is wheel nuts on Landcruiser steel wheels - correct torque is 154 ft lbs.

On the other hand, although tightening torque is not adjustable, I haven't broken much, as it's not a super-powerful unit.

Cheers

Alec
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Are you using a socket extension bar :confused: I've found rattle guns seem to loose about 80% of there effectiveness if you use an extension bar (you need to use a deep socket instead). If the range rover wheel nuts are so tight I need to use the big breaker bar and jump on them .... this will undo them but will rattle for about 10seconds first.



Anyway... moving along.

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The shitbox is telling me these bushes are perfectly fine and it doesn't think I should change them.
























On a completely different topic ... maybe we should talk about decent presses.... I think one of them would be really handy.

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Another trick for stuck nuts is a torque multiplier.

Shane, if you can work out how to justify the travel, you are welcome to use my press. It's about 50 ton with a 20 ton jack. I'll stay out of the workshop while you are here.

When I was doing up my flat-top tandem trailer recently I couldn't be bothered changing the bushes in the inter-axle spring rocker, so I flipped it upside down. The bushes weren't worn through.

Roger
 
Roger Wilkinson said:
Another trick for stuck nuts is a torque multiplier.

Shane, if you can work out how to justify the travel, you are welcome to use my press. It's about 50 ton with a 20 ton jack. I'll stay out of the workshop while you are here.

When I was doing up my flat-top tandem trailer recently I couldn't be bothered changing the bushes in the inter-axle spring rocker, so I flipped it upside down. The bushes weren't worn through.

Roger
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Thanks Roger, I'll have to fix the press here. I had forgotton where the jack presses was pre-bent from years ago when I was pushing CX top balljoints (it was a "oneday" job I forgot about ... fixing it). So the top gave way which pushed the lower shelf sideway and broke it apart. I'll re-enforce it massively .... Hopefully it won't be a n issue in the future.

If you have one of these cheap presses.

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you need to re-enforce this bit here!
 
G'day,

silentblock bushes, NOT fond memories. Damn things, I've had them such that it's been a matter of brutally extracting the rubber and inner steel tube then cutting a slot in the outer steel tubing so that it can be collapsed to extract the mongrels.

cheers,
Bob
 
bob said:
G'day,

silentblock bushes, NOT fond memories. Damn things, I've had them such that it's been a matter of brutally extracting the rubber and inner steel tube then cutting a slot in the outer steel tubing so that it can be collapsed to extract the mongrels.

cheers,
Bob
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I never realised you could get them out any other way.... Pig of a job.
 
JohnW said:
Better equipment than I had...... :)
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ER.... you mean that very "broken" equipment above that will now need to be welded, re-enforced ... you feel like you need to hide behind a bullet proof shelter when your using a cheap chinese press :eek:
 
Win today with a purchase with the wrong price displayed on the shelf. Got this lot for $219 at total tools. Should have been $279-$299. They didn't seem to know exactly. But even so, great price for brushless tech. I like makita. Probably because it's Japanese quality but you should see the real Japanese makita full book catalogue, industrial machines and trades tools on a different level. And yes we don't have this gear here. I tried to enquire about specific power tool for rebating timber tracks (Shoji runner systems) here in Australia years ago. Sorry can't help... Anyway, win for me today. 1588069921441.jpg

Sent from my Moto G Play using aussiefrogs mobile app
 
I have a wood rasp. Not being much of a woodworker, it has hardly had much use over the years, but seems quite blunt.
It seems the only option is to chuck and replace, which is hardly a financial burden, but I was wondering if there are any clever tricks to sharpening them up. I gather metal files can be rejuvenated with acid or some such. Perhaps something can be done here?

Thanks
 
Cheap impact wrenches.

I've worked out why these things sometimes won't work.

--If you use an extension bar ... I reckon you take a good 50% of the "impact" out of the work it'll do. as the slop between the extension bar and socket soaks up the vibration (they seem to work more by vibrating at very high speed than heavy impacts like the big 3/4" rattle gun).
--if you can't firmly hold the bolt being undone. Eg: nyloc nuts and bolts, if you can't hold the spanner side against something to dampen the vibrations, you hand will vibrate like buggery and the spanner will keep vibrating off the nut .... but you won't tighten/loosen the fastener (if you manage to wedge the spanner against something that doesn't move it'll work right away).
--The huge locating arms on the shitbox. It wouldn't undo the 30mm nut on one side ..... the bushses were flogged out in the arm, so it allowed the entire locating arm to vibrate with the impact wrench .... it tightened it back up no problems with tight new bushes fitted :)

Its interesting how this stuff works. These must be very high frequency low impacts, where as the real heavy duty tools are low frequency but much heavier impacts.

seeya,
Shane L.
 
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