Did you screw a new piece of gyprock in behind?
Despite my stressing about my own project, as you have already found re the original tiler job at your house, it's remarkable how well a really bodgy job can last anyway!
Tiling project - advice sought
- Thread starter 1972Ren
- Start date
Despite my stressing about my own project, as you have already found re the original tiler job at your house, it's remarkable how well a really bodgy job can last anyway!
Hi.
No, I used 6mm compressed fiber board.
What has happened is that water has ingresed via failing 28yrs old grout. Gyprock can’t handle being wet. If I had maintained this three years ago it would likely have still been OK.
Cheers.
The story so far.
Bath removed.
That revealed the untiled wall which was behind the bath.
Removed the loose cement which had been applied to the brick wall behind.
Been trying to render that with ordinary sand/cement mix, for a few hours now!
Mixed to the instructions on the bag 3300ml per bag.
Neither I nor my brother any experience at all with rendering.
Issues
*Render likes to fall off after it's been applied
*Slowly and carefully continuing to get more to stick and almost there, but it doesn't grab me as 'oh this is exactly how it should be!"
*Getting the surface to exactly the right depth so that when the render is tiled the tiles will be flush with the existing ones.
*We could leave it to dry overnight, but unsure if a final layer could be applied the next day. Thoughts? That would probably be easier to finish off, but unsure if that will work.
Bath removed.
That revealed the untiled wall which was behind the bath.
Removed the loose cement which had been applied to the brick wall behind.
Been trying to render that with ordinary sand/cement mix, for a few hours now!
Mixed to the instructions on the bag 3300ml per bag.
Neither I nor my brother any experience at all with rendering.
Issues
*Render likes to fall off after it's been applied
*Slowly and carefully continuing to get more to stick and almost there, but it doesn't grab me as 'oh this is exactly how it should be!"
*Getting the surface to exactly the right depth so that when the render is tiled the tiles will be flush with the existing ones.
*We could leave it to dry overnight, but unsure if a final layer could be applied the next day. Thoughts? That would probably be easier to finish off, but unsure if that will work.
Rendering is a whole nutha thing and relies on suction to hold it to the wall long enough for the chemical reaction to take hold and keep it there. Naturally you flicked a thin sand/cement mix to the bare wall first..? Contact Youtube for rendering instructions.
When I rendered the inside of my house I used just ordinary brickies sand, cement and a plasticizer such as dish washing liquid which made putting on the render easier. I also wetted the wall with water before hand. This was onto concrete blocks.
I am planning to do Terrazzo in the front and back footwells.
Why would you suggest as the required thickness, 50 or 100mm
100mm may be a bit heavy and reduce my car's performance
Why would you suggest as the required thickness, 50 or 100mm
100mm may be a bit heavy and reduce my car's performance
Our handywork. Pictures not in chronological order.
Somewhat successful rendering on the walls.
Graham, no we didn't put a scratch coat on, as the surface onto which we were rendering isn't a surface at all
It is very irregular old brick wall, with pieces broken out.
The rendered wall was left sub optimal but we had been fiddling with it for so long that it was exhibiting signs of drying in spots, and I supposed that you can't just keep adding to it all day. So I will be attempting to make up for the irregularity, and slight lack of build depth, with extra tile adhesive.
The concrete on the floor where the bath previously sat, went well.
So now just waiting to see its progress towards drying. As we finished the concreting at 6pm, probably I won't try tiling over it till Tuesday.
The old bath simply drained via the bath outlet, and simply ran down into that old bowl shaped depression in the floor, which runs into a vertical pipe, about 130mm across and 700mm deep, straight into a sewer running under the house.
The old render seen here was removed, leaving the old bricks as the substrate
Somewhat successful rendering on the walls.
Graham, no we didn't put a scratch coat on, as the surface onto which we were rendering isn't a surface at all
It is very irregular old brick wall, with pieces broken out.
The rendered wall was left sub optimal but we had been fiddling with it for so long that it was exhibiting signs of drying in spots, and I supposed that you can't just keep adding to it all day. So I will be attempting to make up for the irregularity, and slight lack of build depth, with extra tile adhesive.
The concrete on the floor where the bath previously sat, went well.
So now just waiting to see its progress towards drying. As we finished the concreting at 6pm, probably I won't try tiling over it till Tuesday.
The old bath simply drained via the bath outlet, and simply ran down into that old bowl shaped depression in the floor, which runs into a vertical pipe, about 130mm across and 700mm deep, straight into a sewer running under the house.
The old render seen here was removed, leaving the old bricks as the substrate
Graham, a question:
Preamble: this is not to come across as me doubting anything you said, as I have been well aware for a long time - then entire 4 years I've been on AF in fact - that you are a person who knows what you are talking about.
That out of the way, I was thinking about you saying tiles can be laid the day after pouring cement.
Internet sources say more like 2 weeks or a month! On of my sisters was just telling me that the builders left everything for a couple of weeks after concrete laying, when they had a bathroom reno done. So we are talking alot more than 1 day.
Why is this said, when in fact the next day (which I am taking as 24 hours fyi) works?
More generally, I note that quick set starts going off in 15 mins, hard in 2 hours. Yet, there is no in between product I can see, between that, and regular. Is there, say, concrete which has shorter work and hardening times, but more like 2 hours/10 hours? Perhaps it could be done, but there is no demand..
Many thanks
Preamble: this is not to come across as me doubting anything you said, as I have been well aware for a long time - then entire 4 years I've been on AF in fact - that you are a person who knows what you are talking about.
That out of the way, I was thinking about you saying tiles can be laid the day after pouring cement.
Internet sources say more like 2 weeks or a month! On of my sisters was just telling me that the builders left everything for a couple of weeks after concrete laying, when they had a bathroom reno done. So we are talking alot more than 1 day.
Why is this said, when in fact the next day (which I am taking as 24 hours fyi) works?
More generally, I note that quick set starts going off in 15 mins, hard in 2 hours. Yet, there is no in between product I can see, between that, and regular. Is there, say, concrete which has shorter work and hardening times, but more like 2 hours/10 hours? Perhaps it could be done, but there is no demand..
Many thanks
Having built hundreds of apartments with bathrooms and ensuites in my time particularly in highrise apartments I can attest that floors are bedded with sand/cement one day and tiled the next and generally without callbacks in regards to tiles lifting. No I am not a tiler but have overseen them all. Even when we pour a floor slab it would be lucky to get 28 days to completely cure before we are laying tiles on the floors. Having said that there are tricks and methods that only the tilers know just like any trade. When we have an apartment completed and painted ready for carpets there is still mist on the inside of the windows every morning due to the water still coming from concrete floors/walls, plasterboard, painted surfaces and tile bedding etc. It all happens very quick and drying times are pretty short for each activity. The only problem you will face is shrinkage of the render and bedding as it slowly cures and dries out which could well take months during colder months. Tilers generally use a very dry bedding mix and pat it into place to achieve their levels. Houses are built a little more leisurely than high rise apartments but still, nothing really gets a lengthy drying period. Don't forget this is Australia and generally warmer and dryer than Europe, Canada etc.
What tile adhesive are you using?
What tile adhesive are you using?
It's certainly true that there are always tricks of the trade, and it's hard to know exactly what will and won't work in some situation till ya been there, done that.
This is the adhesive I picked up, but mainly that was on the rack in front of me, and it heaps cheaper than using premix adhesive at $50 for 4l!
All said, sometimes you just have to do the job with what you have and see what happens. I am 90% confident it will all just be fine. Worst possible case is that some time in the future, I have to come back to fix up loose tiles. If they leak for some reason, the water would just follow the concrete into the drain anyway.
This is the adhesive I picked up, but mainly that was on the rack in front of me, and it heaps cheaper than using premix adhesive at $50 for 4l!
All said, sometimes you just have to do the job with what you have and see what happens. I am 90% confident it will all just be fine. Worst possible case is that some time in the future, I have to come back to fix up loose tiles. If they leak for some reason, the water would just follow the concrete into the drain anyway.
That is similar to the tile adhesive I used when I was tiling my house (what was recommended by the supplier I bought my tiles from). It has rubber particles in it, a bit of a bugger to mix with water but if you keep persisting you get there. I have not had a tile lift and they have been down for about 23 years.
Yes I did all the tiling downstairs with the rubberised tiling cement. 17 years and counting, no problems. I had no fingerprints left by the time I finished either.
I paid a tiler to do upstairs about 8 or 9 years ago, he used the same flexible product on all the floors and the bathroom walls, no issues to date.
The state of progress.......
I couldn't find matching green tiles, so white it is.
Needless to say! I could neither find anything like the existing floor mosaics.
But if it wasn't done with the mismatched tiles, it wouldn't be done at all.
The only real objective, all said and done, is to remove a seriously dangerous bath shower and make it into a shower so my octogenarian mother doesn't end her days slipping over in the bath!
And it's costing about $1500 including the new vanity not presently in view
I couldn't find matching green tiles, so white it is.
Needless to say! I could neither find anything like the existing floor mosaics.
But if it wasn't done with the mismatched tiles, it wouldn't be done at all.
The only real objective, all said and done, is to remove a seriously dangerous bath shower and make it into a shower so my octogenarian mother doesn't end her days slipping over in the bath!
And it's costing about $1500 including the new vanity not presently in view
And, thank goodness! for the use of Greenpeace's Berlingo for the multiple trips to Bunnings.
Were it not for this French Car forum, I would never have been able to do that, and would have made-do with a Forester.
Were it not for this French Car forum, I would never have been able to do that, and would have made-do with a Forester.
Nice job , looks like there's plenty of fall in the floor. I imagine you will be installing a sturdy horizontal grip rail suitable for an octogenarian?
One trick I used to render walls to match existing render thickness was to use small wood blocks stuck here and there on the wall to the correct height so I could "scrape" excess render with a make shift scraper tool (just a long section of flat steel bar) resting on adjacent blocks. When render is dry, you take out the wood blocks and fill the holes. This is easy now as the holes are small. I made this up because I am not experienced at all in all building work but the result was perfect.
I did spray the walls with a mist of water and let it soak a bit before starting and the render stuck very well. Brick wall, by the way.
I did spray the walls with a mist of water and let it soak a bit before starting and the render stuck very well. Brick wall, by the way.