Those weird old citroens

DoubleChevron said:
Yeah I realised as soon as it was running what I'd done, I'd set the timing statically at the point where the points closed (rather than opened). If I'd looked down there with a light when I was setting the timing, I would have seen I was on the wrong side of the dizzie cam.

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Now I know the motor seems .... well amazingly good I'll see if I can get a 5minute drive around the yard to see if the gearbox has a good 2nd gear synchro (I'm thinking it might be as good as the motor). I'm still just amazed how clean inside that motor is.

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With that rusted out rear end and no back suspension at all?

BTW - if it was in top gear when you were trying to start it, was it in top gear when you were dragging it and winching it? Had you already been turning the motor over without realising? Actually, you would have realised when you hand cranked it, so perhaps not...
 
when we winched it onto a trailer in Geelong I put it into gear to see if it would turn..... My father said the fan moved :confused: I wasn't convinced. Just look at the thing! I was convinced it woudl be frozen solid. The other parts car was so seized we had to cut through the driveshafts with a 9" grinder to move it (It was stuck in two gears I reckon).

it was in 4th gear as that is the easy way to turn the motor to set the timing. You can feel for the timing hole at the same time you turn the wheel to rotate the motor
 
Armidillo said:
Remarkable! That encourages me to have a crack at the pommy straight 6 I've got in an Austin A90. It's only been sitting for about 26 years (and it's under cover).

What were you doing down the side of the motor, after tightening loose coil connections, and prior to it starting? Did you have the dizzie clamp loose enough that you could adjust the timing on the fly?
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If it runs, what will you do with it, out of interest?
 
JohnW said:
If it runs, what will you do with it, out of interest?
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The motor will go into the dark blue ID19 that broke its crankshaft a few years back. It's 2nd gear syncrho is nearly gone .... and it has hugely worn 'CVs in the driveshafts. This cars driveshafts feel so good... that I'll use everything I'm thinking.
 
Steven King said:
yet it had just been pulled onto trailer by the rear end without disintegration ...
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oh, the back is toast :ROFLMAO: I bet the poms would think this one is a "good one" :eek: My father just turned up so started it again for him. It fired right up, but this time it doesn't idle. So there is junk in the bottom of the carby and the idle jet is now blocked.... This is something I'll need to sort either way :) What suprises me is all the jets weren't blocked in the first place :clown:
 
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Is it wrong to have so much fun playing with complete and total crap ?? :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
 
I guess this is it .... Onto pulling the motor, gearbox, driveshafts .... and maybe front suspension? off to throw on the blue car. I probably should re-seal the motor too. I'll see if I can find cam/crank seals. I think last time I looked for a gasket kit they weren't simple to find.

 
I've can't think of a simple way to figure out if parts are worth keeping. Eg: should I bother keeping suspension arms that have non-rebuildable bearings.... or will they also be no good. The cars are 60+ years old and only have 99,999mile odometers. So there isn't a simple way of working out milage ..... Though there is one way I can think of.

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these are from the ugly pink car here.... I'm assuming its done very, very little milage that car.

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These are from the rusty wreck I grabbed the LHM parts from to convert the pink car to LHM.

So deep trenching == high, (maybe average? ) milage.

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You only have to pull the pin to see the ball and cup. I'm thinking I should just keep this entire wreck in the yard... That has to be lowish milage. The cups have a slight depression worn in them.

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The balls never seem to be good, even the pink cars were pitted from sitting (the hardening on the surface breaks down).

This seems to be an easy way to quickly check if a parts car has a milllion miles on it or not.... Can anyone think of a simpler way ? :)

seeya,
Shane L.

Y only
 
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This is NOT what you want to see. Chances of not sheering them all of ??? zero percent :clown: Note: That is asbestos across the heat shields right? Let me guess, this is why I've never seen these heat shields before? They were pulled off, bagged up and thrown away 30years ago on most cars as no-one wants to deal with them.

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Candle wax and a map torch is all I used.... it seems to work magic.

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SO CLOSE ..... :blackeye:

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I can see what I've done, I got inpatient, and when I heated it .... note there is no candle wax melted around the base of the nut.... This is probably where its needed most. Fingers cross I'll be able to get that stud out and change it.

seeya
Shane L.
 
PLEASE take the asbestos issue seriously Shane. I have friends who have died from asbestos disease and it aint a good way to go I assure you. Even the smallest exposure can be enough. Wear a proper mask, disposable gloves, dispose of the heat shield properly so nobody is inadvertently exposed at the local tip or wherever. It IS deadly.
 
That is interesting, I've never seen one of those heat shield before. So you have to bend the mounts out the way to clear the exhaust manifold to get it out .... Then unbolt the starter heat shield from the rear (its joins another heat shield attached to the timing chain cover that I have also never seen before, and won't be able to see until the motor is out). There is the "remains" of what I assume is asbestos sheeting on both sides of the heat shield. I never realised the stuff was actually flexible. I put on a painting respirator and remove what was still there as sheets, but its been breaking down for 60years. The best I can do i'm thinking pour water over the area with a watering can, then mop the floor underneath. we would have had asbestos dust blowing around under the bonnet for decades :confused:
 
It's a naturally occurring mineral fibre with some very useful properties and was often made into both woven (rope seals, clothing, gaskets) and rigid products (mats and cement-like panels, pipes, gas meter covers -etc.). You find asbestos in the heat shield under the DS EFI throttle body, but it's usually broken up decades ago and fallen off on the road. Likely the same with most old ID19s you've come acros before this one and it almost certainly has some asbestos laden gaskets, maybe some lagging, plus clutch and brake linings if it's been off the road since 1978. The white asbestos you will mostly encounter still poses a risk, but isn't regarded as being as problematic as the blue and brown versions. Wet it to handle it, bag it and dispose of it correctly. As it's usually expensive to dispose of small amounts, it might be sensible to securely collect small amounts together until you have enough together to take it to a proper dump. Don't just bin it. Given the asbestos issue, it's hard to believe so few people took silicosis arising from certain bench tops seriously.
 
There's advice to spray with 1 PVA : 10 water solution to fix loose fibres before double bagging and labelling as hazardous.

Homeowners

www.asbestos.sa.gov.au www.asbestos.sa.gov.au
 
it appears our local transfer station will accept asbestos at specific times. I'll verify and drop it off. The PVA idea is good. Its only a tiny amount, I'll put some pva and water in the small bags its currently in. that should tie any fibers together.
 
Meanwhile in China.
In a 5 month testing period of just "suspect" items from China, the strike rate for asbestos detection at Australian Customs was near 35%. Radio controlled cars, crayons, billiard tables, irons, gaskets and building products were among the offenders.
There's something like a billion tonnes of asbestos mined every year worldwide, so I guess the odds are we'll still keep seeing some of it.🤷‍♂️
Probably should mask up cutting anything?

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