Shitbox Rally Pug 405 SRDT 94 starts but won't run

Sorry. Not trying to seem ungrateful... In picture 3, I have bled it at numbers 9 and 4. Other than on the fuel filter, where else would I bleed it? If it hadn't been run for 13 years, is it possible that I need to flush the pump??
 
can you set up a small tank and filter ,like a motor bike or lawn mower tank [hang it of the bonnet ] and feed clean fuel directly to the pump see how that goes if its the same the problem has to be in the pump if mot its from the injector pump back to the tank .make sure the diesel going into the injector pump it absolutely clean ,filtered ! brans trust how long do the glow plugs stay on for ?10 minutes ?
 
Can try that, but I put a lot of clean fuel into the tank and put a new after market fuel filter on it, so I reckon the fuel is pretty good. Everything is worth trying though.
 
View attachment 221361 It isn't that CAV pump Seasink, it is this one. I have opened a few things that looked like bleed points and got some air out of them, but to no avail. It starts, runs fine for 10 seconds and then stops. If I wait 2 seconds and crank it again, the same thing happens. I have also cranked it for a bit with the injector nuts loose, but get the same result.
sounds like the cutout solenoid is cutting it off ?? It wouldn't just restart if there was air in it. make sure you have 12volts at the solenoid at all times .... and possibly rips its guts out if you need to!
 
The French for the Bosch isn't much help. It says to bleed water open both the purge screw and drain and let the water and impurities run out, then refit the screws.

To bleed air, open the bleed screw and pump the button until resistance is felt. Then crank it over for 10-15 secs and it will purge air from the injection pump automatically..
 
try to rig a hot wire direct to the solenoid ,having removed the existing wire ,the solenoid has to be opening or it wouldn't start ,but the current to it may be ,drooping out for some reason .
 
Not that familiar with the Lucas CAV pump mine had a bosch pump, from memory CAV pumps, have a lift pump on the side that can give a problem, So my previous comment still stands, put an electric pump inline to the injector pump. It will ensure there is a good fuel supply to the internal high-pressure pump.
 
try to rig a hot wire direct to the solenoid ,having removed the existing wire ,the solenoid has to be opening or it wouldn't start ,but the current to it may be ,drooping out for some reason .
Ok. Good idea, but that's not the problem.
 
Is it possibly the injectors? It looks like they are getting a constant squirt of diesel. Could they fire up briefly if they were blocked?
 
erik , you've probably got it sorted already but just in case
(I have a lucas pump on an XUD7TD ) from your single pic it looks as though its the 405 Turbo Diesel with the Lucas pump
its very unlikely to be a faulty stop solenoid as it would not start to begin with so leave that for now

an air leak is still the most likely cause of your problems
you're basically wanting an air free diesel flow from tank to injectors, one step at a time
get it to the pump, then prime the pump and get it to the injectors
I would first do what's suggested above to isolate the fuel lines/filter etc as potential causes
set up an external 5L jerry can of clean diesel
run a clear hose (easy to see any air bubbles) feed line with primer bulb to your IN banjo
you will also be able to see if your primer bulb is leaking air
and run your return line back from your OUT/return banjo to your 5L jerry can
prime your new set up fuel feed line
this gives you air free diesel to your injection pump
and crank engine

if it fires and runs fine with an external diesel supply, you know its pulling in air somewhere between tank and inj pump
most likely causes are the filter, and ...the filter
get some more of that clear hose and use it to isolate the source of the leak

if it doesn't fire, you probably need to prime the pump still
I wasn't aware of the Lucas pump bleed screws Seasink mentions above
they may make priming easier as it can take a bit of cranking
crack your injector union nuts on top of each injector so they're loose
crank engine until you see diesel coming out the joins, mostly they spurt and sputter when primed
retighten each nut one at a time , in whatever order, just as they get diesel to them
at this point you have good diesel to the pump, a primed pump and diesel to your injectors
crank your engine again

filters - not sure what your aftermarket version is but
the black plastic 'top hat' unit your 405 would've come with are just ok, not great
they don't bleed air into the system but they are plastic and the thermostat they sit on is ally
they expand/contract at different rates and you have a diesel slow seep at the O-ring join
the other one pictured just above as 4 are terrible
I had lots of problems with mine as the little vacuum pump on top are prone to failure
kept fixing it until I got the earlier seasink pictured one at B that have a plunger instead
but don't bother with the plunger as I use the filter just for filtering
I like the little rubber hand primer bulbs and use them, just make sure your bulb is not leaking
 
omission -
to prime your external fuel feed line to the pump
crack the IN banjo bolt , M17 socket
pump fuel thru until any bubbles finish up and it leaks solid diesel flow
retighten banjo bolt
 
Liquidhandwash wins!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I thought I would have one last go before I quit it and got an intank Jaguar fuel pump and put it in a bucket of diesel, connected up hoses and connected the pump to 12 v and... after the hand pump inflated to the size of a small balloon and was removed - while squirting diesel from all of the small leaks in the fittings on my non-OEM off the rack fuel filter - it ran fine. Hmmm...
 
Oh boy, what did I win? If you're doing what I think you're doing stop it! A fuel petrol fuel injector pump can output over 100 psi with no regulator, you need a carby type fuel pump at around 3 psi.
Glad to help.
 
Oh boy, what did I win? If you're doing what I think you're doing stop it! A fuel petrol fuel injector pump can output over 100 psi with no regulator, you need a carby type fuel pump at around 3 psi.
Glad to help.
You won prestige and a handclap! Yes I was using one of those as it was what I had lying around. I have ordered a low pressure one. The other things that contributed to the problem are that there is a blockage in the fuel line which I will investigate today, probably in the fuel tank and a blocked exhaust, either a python or a rats nest.
 
hang on , wait a minute, didn't pugwash first suggest a clean fuel supply ?

so far it (the problem) is not the injection pump, not the stop solenoid and def not the absence of an electrical fuel pump

a clean fuel supply only confirms that its not the injection pump

all credit to lhw, jerry rigs make the world go round
but the system should run fine without an electrical fuel pump
if it doesn't you've still got the original problem , which you mention as either
a blocked fuel line or that hand bulb blowing up like a balloon
(they are one way so it was probably the wrong way around)

if they still sell them pugwash gets the red frog
 
The bulb wasn't the wrong way around, it was just too strong a fuel pump, designed for a high pressure fuel injected system...

I have taken it off and sealed up the worst air leaks or ingresses and can now make it run roughly with just the injection pump and the original fuel tank, but it is quite rough and smokes a fair bit, so I wonder about some of the injectors. Mind you the turbo isn't connected.

It is now surplus to requirements as I have bought another shitbox car, so if anyone wants to buy it and tidy it up, send me a pm. Erik
 
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