Taking the paint off will make it lighter. Black is lowest KG/Litre
I couldn't let this go past un-commented. #citationrequired
My quick googling brings up lots of anecdotes and debate, but it's immediately clear that different pigments weigh do different amounts, but also have different application rates to achieve acceptable coverage. This is before evaporation is accounted for.
I assume places like V8 supercars have tried this out on their spec chassis, where you could do a weigh, paint, dry, weigh process on identical chassis in different colours. Certainly I've heard it mentioned in relation to aeroplanes, where it makes a measurable difference.
This was a quite a good one, within my 5 minute limit on the topic. https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/paint-weight-debate-951964/page3/
It came up with a metallic silver being lightest vs white heaviest in the specific choices to hand, by a noticeable amount.
I recall passenger aircraft having tonnes of paint. Tonnes..... I guess 3300 litres is 3-5 tonnes? Never checked whether it floats or sinks.
Was the perforated floor standard equipment or an extra on the Standard?got a bit away from the holes....
When I was but a lad I had an elderly Standard, with a ventilated floor. The go back then was fibreglass and resin, used in big amounts by industry for all sorts of stuff. At the factory one morning the lads from the pattern shop cleaned up and resin glued a fiberglass mat in all four footwells, after lunch they came back with a big bucket of resin and poured it in to a depth of about 1/4" or so. Worked rather well, just a few dribbles underneath not worth worrying about....
Bob
photos.app.goo.gl
photos.app.goo.gl
Heavens, you could get away with thick paint!!
It does look like good value for money, but be aware that it's DC TIG only. You need AC for aluminium and I can't see an option for a foot pedal? You'll enjoy this option when you start to TIG weld.
Re welders, is something like this reasonable to aim for?
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/unim ... ick-welder
Decided ~7-800 is kinda the silly money I'm happy to play with (Oh, and I appreciate there is another ~$600 in saftey gear and a bottle of gas) and want a welder that will end up with me playing with TIG eventually. Needs to be a 10amp (still renting) and something that does Stick / Mig / Tig makes sense?
Google reading tells me a ~180w machine usually has enough control / flexibility for the thinner sheet metal I'll end up playing with? I'm not exactly sure why this is the case but assuming simply better chineseium internals that can handle voltage control better? Or perhaps it's just that the cheap TIG machines are junk?
For the project list;
- rear arches (might just epoxy / fiberglass them)
- various rust repairs
- making a spring compressor tool
- making a bracket to hold the brake master cylinder still (moves like a trampoline against thin firewall)
- make some suspension braces between front / rear towers / copy the racing spanish reno nerds
- make some adjustable control arms / adjustable tyre rod / trailing arms.
- exhaust manifold
- inlet manifold (most likely steel, and tiny, like ~40mm inlet runners for motorbike style throttle body to valve distances)
- seem weld the POS (because idiot)
Point being, there is heaps to learn and practise on and what better way to do it then sending my electricity bill through the roof!