Renault 16 Appreciation Thread

COL said:
I'll take a pic of my R17 motor and post tomorrow. Its a piece of thin tin with some heat proof material riveted to the tin. Its held onto the exhaust manifold by a couple of bolts, one of them would be the bolt that supports the dip stick tube.
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COL said:
I'll take a pic of my R17 motor and post tomorrow. Its a piece of thin tin with some heat proof material riveted to the tin. Its held onto the exhaust manifold by a couple of bolts, one of them would be the bolt that supports the dip stick tube.
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They may have been removed by previous custodians due to the drama in removing the exhaust manifold, which from memory actually required the manufacture of a shortened and bent ring spanner to remove the nuts closest to the windscreen. And if the exhaust connector couldn't be reached or was rusted up, you need to cut through the exhaust pipe where it curves to turn back under the car and then refit that later. Ah, Fwench cars - they're awesome...
 
When I lived at Oakey Qld back in the mid 70s one of the pilots from the Army Aviation base had one, from memory it was gold in colour.

BP
 
That heatshield was lined with asbestos from factory. Not sure you'd want it now.

I would suggest you make your own maybe from aluminium and drop it down a bit so it can be a little bit better thermally decoupled from the manifold.

You can try painting it with some of that exhaust paint or have it ceramic coated.

And/or have the exhaust ceramic coated or wrapped.
 
This stuff looks interesting:

Adhesive Heat Shields - Peel and Stick Heat Shield to Keep Your Ride Cool

Need a heat shield but there is little clearance to stand off a traditional heat shield, a peel and stick heat shield is the option. Ideal through the trans tunnel or on the firewall facing the heat source. These adhesive heat shields are a DIY dream product - clean and prep the area and then...
www.carbuilders.com.au www.carbuilders.com.au
 
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If you need a heat shield I’d have a spare original one. I’ve never had heat related starter motor issues using the original heat shield.
 
what I was saying about angrus' post is that 'heat' may not quite be the issue in Victoria that it is in sunny Queensland...

and I know that Aust Post delivers to Qld, even to our little house on the hill in the middle of nowhere, because they regularly bring me wine - and I love them for that !
 
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boleropilot said:
what I was saying about angrus' post is that 'heat' may not quite be the issue in Victoria that it is in sunny Queensland...

and I know that Aust Post delivers to Qld, even to our little house on the hill in the middle of nowhere, because they regularly bring me wine - and I love them for that !
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I can assure you that it has nothing to do with geographical location. I had a R17 that was missing the heat shield, and changing starter motors was done so often that i was continually on the lookout for replacement starter motors. i thought the problem was old starter motors till i realized that there was meant to be a heat shield fitted.
 
I’ve just been looking at the mecaparts site and notice that they have a heat shield that replaces the original one listed in the 12 Gordini section. Part number mp4112. This may be better than the original (or may just be a more modern and less effective alternative that doesn’t contain asbestos).
 
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Back from overseas so back to the reno project.Thanks for the suggestions. If i can get a shied from you then great otherwise it doesn't look to difficult to fabricate.I'm attempting to install the steering column/pedal box but need to sort out wiring to the ignition switch wiring. Do the letters on the wires in the diagram refer to a colour? I have a black,yellow and gray wire with a red and gray spliced together, from the loom. what goes where????
 
cee5 said:
Back from overseas so back to the reno project.Thanks for the suggestions. If i can get a shied from you then great otherwise it doesn't look to difficult to fabricate.I'm attempting to install the steering column/pedal box but need to sort out wiring to the ignition switch wiring. Do the letters on the wires in the diagram refer to a colour? I have a black,yellow and gray wire with a red and gray spliced together, from the loom. what goes where????
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The letters on the wire refer to colour. There are usually letters indicating the wire and sleeve colours. The number indicates the wire diameter. For example Be B 4 - Wire colour Beige, Sleeve colour Blue and wire diameter 4 which is 12 gauge.

Colours are Be-beige, Bc- White, B- Blue, C- Clear, G- Grey, J- Yellow, N- Black, S- Pink, R -Red, V- Green, M-Maroon & Vi -Violet.
However with age some of these colours are hard to identify, they seem to fade to a dirty white.
Hope this helps
 
Antoine said:
The letters on the wire refer to colour. There are usually letters indicating the wire and sleeve colours. The number indicates the wire diameter. For example Be B 4 - Wire colour Beige, Sleeve colour Blue and wire diameter 4 which is 12 gauge.

Colours are Be-beige, Bc- White, B- Blue, C- Clear, G- Grey, J- Yellow, N- Black, S- Pink, R -Red, V- Green, M-Maroon & Vi -Violet.
However with age some of these colours are hard to identify, they seem to fade to a dirty white.
Hope this helps
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Just on the colour of the wires, if you are unsure just peel back a little of the loom wrapping and you will be able to see the true colour.
 
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