It's still got the Protected by Electrophoresis sticker too.
Renault 16 Appreciation Thread
- Thread starter DStragic
- Start date
It's still got the Protected by Electrophoresis sticker too.
Well that's one car on which the Electrophoresis might have worked.
There are many an R16 and R12 that have met god due to poorly applied Electrophoresis treatment.
There were many vehicles from the Heidelberg plant sabotaged by employees leaving coca cola cans with some remaining contents in doors and other cute places whilst the bodies were in bare metal finish and prior to their being dipped. Ask me how I know? I was told by several employees working on the high line opposite the body shop that it was a common occurrence. Alas, Electrophoresis couldn't defeat Coke.
For whatever reason, I recall that R16s tended to come in two varieties, great and pretty poor.
Some seemed quite immune to rust. Some just went beautifully. "Back in the day" I usually sussed them out with one drive around the block and one quick rust inspection. Good ones were quickly acquired...
They deserve recognition in the History of Cars.
Some seemed quite immune to rust. Some just went beautifully. "Back in the day" I usually sussed them out with one drive around the block and one quick rust inspection. Good ones were quickly acquired...
They deserve recognition in the History of Cars.
We have probably been here before on Aussiefrogs but electrophoresis repeats don't matter I reckon.
My understanding, quite a few years back, was that on some cars the electrophoresis process was overdone and instead of just avoiding too thin a paint coat on the corners, it ended up with too THIN a coat on the panel surfaces. The bad ones, R12s particularly, rusted outrageously. Both our 16TS cars were pretty good.
RTT is quite correct, alas.
I had a R16TS that was pretty bad rust wise.
But I also had an R16TL that was good so it was probably pure luck whether you got a good'un.
But even the rusty ones was a good car to drive, column change and all.
(Didn't like the handbrake near the right knee though, just felt wrong).
But I also had an R16TL that was good so it was probably pure luck whether you got a good'un.
But even the rusty ones was a good car to drive, column change and all.
(Didn't like the handbrake near the right knee though, just felt wrong).
I'm restoring a 1974 16 in avocado green but can 't find the colour code anywhere. Can anyone help? Loved reading the last 5 pages of the appreciation thread.
Just read this old post and realised that Nick Contanedes was a mechanic at punt rd workshop where I did my apprenticeship from Feb 1970…jim
and the old girl is still going strong 5 yrs on
I still enjoy showing people the different wheelbase on each side of the car...one bloke was convinced it had been in a bad prang and the repairers really stuffed up the rebuild.....
This is good. I didn't realise this thread was still running. Would anyone have a wiring diagram for the '74 auto.
I only have diagrams up to 1969. I'm converting the auto to a manual.
I only have diagrams up to 1969. I'm converting the auto to a manual.
Hey C5 I have a Haynes 16 Owners Workshop Manual for all models 1965 to 1979 / 1470 1535 1647cc
There are quite a lot of wiring diagrams in the manual, not all mention year numbers, listing R numbers instead, e.g. R1152 and R1153
No mention of automatic versions though. Let me know if one of these will help and I can post it here
BP
There are quite a lot of wiring diagrams in the manual, not all mention year numbers, listing R numbers instead, e.g. R1152 and R1153
No mention of automatic versions though. Let me know if one of these will help and I can post it here
BP
One other thing I love about the 16 - the so simple system for disc brake pad wear. Nothing other than a wire attached to a pin protruding 2mm from the brake pad aimed towards the disc - when the pin reaches the disc it completes a circuit to power up a light on the dash indicating you have 2mm pad left. Magnificent engineering !
BP
BP
There is currently a few workshop manuals for the R16 on Ebay. Buying at least one or two of them would answer a lot of your questions. The last one I have attached is a factory manual.
Book, Haynes Workshop Manual no. 081, Renault 16 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Book, Haynes Workshop Manual no. 081, Renault 16 at the best online prices at eBay!
www.ebay.com.au
Renault 16 Workshop Manual 1965 to 1979 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Renault 16 Workshop Manual 1965 to 1979 at the best online prices at eBay!
www.ebay.com.au
RENAULT 16 16TS 16TA Models from 1965 - Intereurope Workshop Manual #141 USED | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for RENAULT 16 16TS 16TA Models from 1965 - Intereurope Workshop Manual #141 USED at the best online prices at eBay!
www.ebay.com.au
Renault 16,16TL and 16TS 1965-72 Workshop Manual by Autopress | eBay
SECONDHAND MANUAL IN VERY GOOD CONDITION, A FEW MINOR MARKS INSIDE FROM USE, MAINLY VERY CLEAN. CONTENTS COVERS: THE ENGINE. FUEL SYSTEM. IGNITION SYSTEM. COOLING SYSTEM. THE TRANSMISSION. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION.
www.ebay.com.au
1965-74 RENAULT 16 Autobooks Workshop Manual | eBay
This contains the technical maintenance of all Renault 16 L, TL, and TS. 1965-72 Renault 16. 1972-74 Renault 16L. 1970-74 Renault 16TL. 1968-74 Renault 16TS.
www.ebay.com.au
Renault 16 R16 R1150 Manual Repair Workshop Review Automotive Engineering RTA | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Renault 16 R16 R1150 Manual Repair Workshop Review Automotive Engineering RTA at the best online prices at eBay!
www.ebay.com.au
R1153 should be r16tl auto,R1154 should be 16ts auto R1152 16tl manual,R1151 16ts manual R1150 R16 manual (1470?cc)….jim
Thanks all. I ended buying a Haynes manual for 16's up to 1979 off ebay so that should sort a few things out. Work is progressing on the auto to manual conversion. Painted the engine bay and front the other day and not to bad. Good gloss with just the clear coat over the base.
Hey C5 one thing you might want to consider. There is a plate between the exhaust manifold and the starter motor to protect it from the heat but it doesn't quite cut the mustard in Oz conditions. I have had quite a few starter solenoid failures with previous 16s we owned, to the extent we tended to park on hills just in case. Not sure if there is any way to improve the performance of the heat plate but it's a thought...
I haven't seen that plate on either of my 2. There is a plate i have refitted behind the exhaust pipe to reduce heat into the body.
I'll take a pic of my R17 motor and post tomorrow. Its a piece of thin tin with some heat proof material riveted to the tin. Its held onto the exhaust manifold by a couple of bolts, one of them would be the bolt that supports the dip stick tube.