R8 needle roller seal

Finally have the rear end all assembled,just need some Koni's (ouch! X 4) or similar. The leather seal arrangement went together well and hopefully it will do the job. Anyone have experience with the Meca shockers? P1100131.jpg
 
Looks nice Brian. Can't help re Meca shockers. Our R8 has a modest two Konis at the rear, but they've lastest 35 years approximately. Top equipment....
 
Yeah John,you're right I think they are still the best...had them before in Renaults and Pugs. The shocks can wait until the bank balance creeps up again!.What I really need more urgently is a set of Fiat rear callipers to complete the rear end.I have done the 16TS fronts and need something for the rear. This project would have been completed 3 years ago if I kept it standard (or near standard!
 
Ok, so the decision to go with leather has been made. I found some soft leather and cut them out with wad punches.Did a dry run last night and whilst a bit tight they did compress enough to fit in the trunnion's. Removed them tonight and they have compressed nicely so I see no reason not to give it a go. The other option is import from France or keep searching for something suitable locally.
I know this is a very old thread, but I am now rebuilding a transaxle and have run into the same issue. I am talking about the seal protecting the trunnion bearing - just as a reminder, the thread seemed to move on from this issue a bit! My thoughts are: wouldn't this be a felt seal? Mine look a bit rubber-like but its had years of compression/grease and it sort of pulls apart and disintegrates in ways rubber wouldn't. Also, my reading suggests felt is often used in such situations to protect bearings....
 
I'm finally about to reassemble the axles to my gearbox on the R8 G replica. This is a twin shock rear end and 16TS Big box with Steve Swan big uni's/. There is a seal which sits against the shoulder of the needle bearing housing/trunnion . My originals are so badly damaged that I have no idea what they should look like.
Are they a common seal that can be obtained locally or an import job.Mine appear to be a flat rubber seal which would be easy enough to make with a wad punch. Any suggestions or leads would be appreciated. Cheers Brian
I used string to replace the seals of my Dauphine. After assembly of the needle rollers and cap onto the trunnion 'shafts', I just wound string around the gap between the needle roller housing and the trunnion 'shaft' shoulder until I had built up an appropriate volume and then tightened an knotted the ends. I know that it's not ideal, but it seems to be working.
 
You almost wouldn’t need the knot would you? It’s not really got anywhere to go.
 
Hi
I do not have the answer but I suspect you two are not talking about the same part :)
I would use an O ring if it is the correct profile more or less. There are a selection of cross section diameters. That is if I am on the correct part track.
Jaahn
I'd say an 'o' ring of the diameter to match the width of the gap (i.e. the size of the needle rollers) will be too thick to get the shoulders of the caps into the casting where they pivot. The remnants of seals I've seen are rubber/neoprene, much thinner than their width. I'm trying to remember but something like 1 mm wide and 0.2-0.3 mm thick. Do they actually matter much? The caps open inside the universal joint chamber.

New ones, complete with seal, are available at a price! That assumes we are talking about the same part of course.
 
Not sure whether these seals are to keep water out or grease in (or perhaps both). Anyway, I've hand cut some out of gasket paper and they look about as good as the old ones (except they're not broken and oil soaked!) I might 'threebond' up all the mating surfaces that don't move for good measure!
 
Not sure whether these seals are to keep water out or grease in (or perhaps both). Anyway, I've hand cut some out of gasket paper and they look about as good as the old ones (except they're not broken and oil soaked!) I might 'threebond' up all the mating surfaces that don't move for good measure!
The seals are at the inner side of the trunnion bearing caps, so open into the sealed space where the universal joints live. So the seals are mostly to keep grease in I guess. Best is to have the felt rubbing strips for the swing axle pivot wiping area replaced and to get new rubber gaiters, then everything stays clean for decades. (I have tested this over that time frame!)

I'm not sure that my caps ever had seals. The needle rollers are close to horizontal and just rotate a little, so I'd say the correct grease is the most important thing, whatever that is. I have bronze bushes instead of rollers with Molygrease. OK since 1990.
 
The seals are at the inner side of the trunnion bearing caps, so open into the sealed space where the universal joints live. So the seals are mostly to keep grease in I guess. Best is to have the felt rubbing strips for the swing axle pivot wiping area replaced and to get new rubber gaiters, then everything stays clean for decades. (I have tested this over that time frame!)

I'm not sure that my caps ever had seals. The needle rollers are close to horizontal and just rotate a little, so I'd say the correct grease is the most important thing, whatever that is. I have bronze bushes instead of rollers with Molygrease. OK since 1990.
Hi
About two years ago I went to Renhel Manufacturing in sth dandenong they made some washers out of cork 1.6 mmx 21 x 30 which were a fraction thicker than the original. (Needs four hands to assemble them in my experience.)
rob
 
Hi
About two years ago I went to Renhel Manufacturing in sth dandenong they made some washers out of cork 1.6 mmx 21 x 30 which were a fraction thicker than the original. (Needs four hands to assemble them in my experience.)
rob
It would. I can imagine. Still, you know yours are sealed that is for sure! :)
 
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