R8 droop straps

B

BobG

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Tadpole
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I just finished replacing a transaxle u-joint oil seal on my new 5-spd Swan box. When I loosened the spring compressor the droop strap broke. It was new last year from Mecaparts. So instead of buying another one of questionable quality, I'm considering fabricating one (for both sides) from aluminum strip. It won't have any flex like the fabric one, but should be plenty strong. Has anyone made their own droop straps? Your opinions are welcome.
Bob G
 
I use gal steel 40mm wide, 2.8 mm thick from Bunnings. Ally can shear off like those weak belts.
Al my old Renaults, Floride, Gordini and Alconi have them.
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I use galvanised chain inside of 25mm clear pvc tubing, (anti-rattle), all ex Bunnings, with a couple of 4mm holes at the lowest point to drain water, if needed. Works great.

Henry
 
I have successfully persisted with various pieces of exhaust mount strapping material over the years with no breakage, and thought that a metal strap might cause instability at the limit whilst cornering as the strap came into play, being that there would be a sudden stop rather than a more forgiving take up with the material strap.

The performance of Bustamif's R8 would prove that I was quite wrong, but perhaps his car does not jack up during cornering through better set up, at least in the picture above. I will make a set of the metal straps, courtesy of the obligatory Bunnings.
 
Can't you just go to your local saddler and get some leather ones made up?🤔
 
I got a set from Meccaparts as well and they didn't last past the first lift as they broke at the bolt hole.
I got a roll of conveyor belt the same width and thickness of the original material and cut them a bit longer and punched the holes further from the end, painted them with tan vinyl paint. It's been a few years now and have not had an issue.
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I got a number from some one years ago, made from conveyor belt. They still look good.
 
Sunroof said:
I got a number from some one years ago, made from conveyor belt. They still look good.
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I think you got those from me and yes they were hand cut from conveyor belting. If you look at the original securing washers ( 2 per fixing) they have deep circular grooves machined in them to afford better clamping than a standard Bunnings flat washer. That could be why Pauls new straps broke, wrong washers..
 
Because my cars are not used for off road or rally they are lower than a standard R8G. The straps therefore have some effect on the handling and suspension setup for street and track. Rear wheels are at zero camber on droop, static camber at normal ride height is around 2 degree negative.
I use steel straps after a friend in a 1600 R10 negotiating the S bends at Oran Park race track had a strap break on camber change. The right rear wheel tucked under the car and flipped it over about 4 times. He was OK but the car was screwed up like a ball of tin foil. Since then I have always used steel straps. For the same reason we always used steel straps or chain during the Rallycross series.
 
Ah, this is boring news. Just bought new straps from Mecaparts since one of the old snapped in the garage.

My dad used steel chains on his old racecar, probably a better solution than fitting new straps?
 
R8RX said:
Ah, this is boring news. Just bought new straps from Mecaparts since one of the old snapped in the garage.

My dad used steel chains on his old racecar, probably a better solution than fitting new straps?
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Your dad is a wise man, you learn a lot from race cars.
 
Thanks all for lots of good suggestions. I think I'll make a temporary strap from steel strip and see how it works. I may never drive the car hard enough to the bring the droop strap into action though.

Pardon my American ignorance, but what's a "Bunnings"?
 
I use a chain on the race car and conveyor belt on the street car. I think that the big thick washer that goes with it is very important for durability.

The chain on the race car works in 2 ways. Because I have the locked diff in, the axle droop is set for 0 degrees then the chain will tighten. During racing conditions, around a bend, the chain on the inside will swing towards the gearbox and it gets "shorter" as it swings in. It will then tighten sooner and lift the wheel, or lessen the weight on the inside wheel, causing it to reduce traction. That is what you want. The chain on the other side will play no roll in this corner because the body roll causes the axle to go inwards. So, the chain swinging inwards is actually a self adjusting chain that lifts the wheel quicker to my advantage.

Due to the locked diff I will lose no traction, in fact most of the traction i get is on the wheel with the most weight on it. The traction on that wheel helps the nose of the car to go in the same direction and eliminates or minimises understeer.

Frans.
 
Frans said:
I use a chain on the race car and conveyor belt on the street car. I think that the big thick washer that goes with it is very important for durability.

Frans.
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Have the same feeling about those big washers. My strap snapped a few centimeters down from the washer. Not at the mounting hole.
 
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40 years ago ‘l built a warm R10 where l removed the limit straps altogether but the droop was regulated by a horizontal monoshock of a motorbike , lying above the rear crossmember and connected to the axle tubes by flying buttresses , going each side of that crossmember . The gearbox was mounted 25mm lower with special mounts , and l even removed the bump stops to give better articulation . Contrary to normal driving practice , this car could take a roundabout with trailing throttle , at speed . ( R16 engined )
 
Here's my (at least) temporary solution. Shoulder harness strap from expired racing belts. Is it sufficient as a permanent solution?

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