PRV Bearings - Durability

I doubt addo means the HS car. It needs either head gaskets or engine transplant (I think the ex-Greenblood engine transplant is the best option). The transmission still goes but is starting to play up. Two options: either auto from ex-cattledog car or manual from ex-hawk XMs, both of which reside here.

Roger
 
Jumping back on topic briefly (apologies!)

1171.63 first style dipstick tube
1174.06 first style dipstick

1171.94 late style dipstick tube
1174.32 late style dipstick

Change was early 1995 from my observations. The later one is MUCH easier to access for checking oil level.

As to the Seidler car, my main concern its long-term survival. Being able to regularly arrive at one of his buildings in it, would be icing on the cake. I feel bad enough turning up in a Peugeot.
 
Which part do you get when you filter by VIN? Or is it not effective for the older Pugs? Citroen Service doesn't VIN filter for XM1 or BX, but is fine with the XM2.

I sometimes get a slight top end rattle on startup in the 12 Valve. Only after the car has sat for a week or so. I didn't have the issue prior to the last oil change, so maybe the Magnatec does cling better than the Nulon oil that's in it now. I'll change back to Magnatec and see if it persists. I've never had an oil pressure warning at any time, so I suspect it's solid downstairs after 220K. The Volvo 760 has about 350K now, but that's the second engine and it was changed because a liner had dropped, not bearing wear.

Re the XM ... you have plenty of parts and options then Roger. Perhaps, change the governor seals and that valve body spring and see what happens? The GB car is the more appropriate engine donor as the Cattledog car is an XM2 from memory and the stroke and pistons are slightly different. I have a few odds and sods and a new early 2975cc engine in bits. The heads are fine, but the storage has not been ideal, so the bottom end needs further dismantling to check it. So, there are clearly a few options here.
 
Last edited:
Cattledog and Hawk cars have no engine. Only transmissions. I don't need their engines because I have the Greenblood one. I bought Cattledog car for XM2 parts, the 4HP18 was a bonus. I don't know yet whether the trans was OK when the strut top popped. I need to PM Cattledog (if he is still around) and fins out. Changing to the manual transmission from the Hawk car would be more challenging.

Roger
 
Hi David, filtering later 605s by VIN can turn up no results at all! Apparently my car was built with no cooling hoses either...
 
addo said:
I will, but there is a secondary issue I'm up against now. Both my car and the flood-damaged donor motor have the "old style" dipstick and tube, that comes up near the right side of the radiator. Later ones had a more central dipstick and shorter tube. What I don't have, is an intact version of the long dipstick to measure where mine should stop being inserted!
Click to expand...

I assume it's the same as the XM with the dipstick here:

PRV_Dipstick_1994.JPG

This should be part# 117406, replaced about 2 years ago. From the shoulder that sits on the tube: To tip 687mm full 630mm low 663mm.
 
What a marvellous picture! Many thanks indeed, and for the measurements too.
 
Now you can make your own custom knob in any material that you fancy. Aluminium, Brass, Huon Pine ... If you choose brass, you could ask UFO to come and polish it.

Perhaps, a special thread dedicated to the 'Dipsticks' of this world could work? Plastic and metal varieties by engine / application only.
 
You could value them at a premium by rejecting nearly all requests.

I dipped my stick after marking it using David's measurements. Almost 1.5 litres to get it between the goalposts. This probably begets another question for Scotty: which bearing to check?
 
I always had to use 6.5 l in the XM. So that meant I had to buy four 5 litre containers of oil (usually Castrol Magnatec) to do three oil changes.
 
Repco have 10W40 Maganatec at $16.99 per5 litres this weekend. Liit 3 per customer.
Also

banner.jpg
 
For the XM ES9, the 2001 Citroen Mechanics Handbook shows refill capacity is 5.25l with the filter and 2l between max and min marks on the dipstick. It's suggesting 5W30 was the initial fill (except for Xsara VTS), but 10W40 is the typical oil listed for Australia. It doesn't seem to be critical (i.e. 5W30 is generally suitable post 2000, but 5W30 is not suitable for the VTS.)

You'd be OK with 5W30, but the 10W40 with an annual or up to 10K change interval should also be OK. Castrol doesn't show the late 24V XM with the ES9 engine, but does list C5 and Xantia with an ES9 engine with odd results:

For the early C5 V6 with an ES9 Castrol list:

​
CASTROL EDGE 0W-40 A3/B4
​
Castrol EDGE 0W-40 A3/B4 is a fully synthetic, SAE 0W-40, engine oil formulated for prestige and high performance engines. Castrol EDGE 0W-40 A3/B4 provides outstanding wear protection in performance engines designed to run at their optimum level on lower viscosity oils. Castrol EDGE 0W-40 A3/B4 should be used in engines where maximum efficiency and protection is demanded This product is not suitable for vehicles fitted with Diesel Particulate Filters (DPF).
​


​
or CASTROL MAGNATEC 10W-40​
Castrol Magnatec 10W-40 is suitable for petrol engines, direct and indirect injection engines, LPG and CNG cars, light commercial vehicles and 4WDs. Meets and exceeds API SN/CF, ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4 requirements. Now with ultra refined molecules for protection you can see, hear and feel. * As tested against the industry Sequence IVA wear test.​


​
or CASTROL EDGE 5W-40 SN​
Castrol EDGE 5W-40 SN is a fully synthetic, SAE 5W-40 engine oil formulated for performance vehicles in both petrol and diesel passenger and light commercial vehicles, naturally aspirated or turbocharged. This product is not suitable for vehicles fitted with Diesel Particulate Filters (DPF).​




For the Xantia V6, they list:

​
CASTROL EDGE 5W-30 A3/B4
​
Castrol EDGE 5W-30 A3/B4 is a fully synthetic, SAE 5W-30, engine oil. It gives you the confidence to demand maximum engine performance from today's highly tuned four cylinder and latest technology engines, operating with tighter tolerances, requiring lower viscosity and stronger oils for variable service intervals. Castrol EDGE 5W-30 A3/B4 is proven in tests to deliver outstanding oil strength.
​
Magnatec_10W40.jpg
or CASTROL MAGNATEC 10W-40​
Castrol Magnatec 10W-40 is suitable for petrol engines, direct and indirect injection engines, LPG and CNG cars, light commercial vehicles and 4WDs. Meets and exceeds API SN/CF, ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4 requirements. Now with ultra refined molecules for protection you can see, hear and feel. * As tested against the industry Sequence IVA wear test.
​


​
or CASTROL GTX MODERN ENGINE 15W-40​
Castrol GTX Modern Engine 15W-40 provides greater reliability for your modern engine: Containing an anti-sludge formula that provides 25% better sludge protection compared to tough industry standards. Suitable for 4, 6 and 8 cylinder engines built by most manufacturers from 1995. Provides higher performance reserve for the longer oil change intervals and/or smaller sump sizes in modern cars. For all types of passenger cars, including 4WDs and light commercials. *vs. API SN/CF Industry Standards.
​
 
Last edited:
Thanks David. I had a feeling the ES9J4 preferred synthetic engine oil (mine has a Mobil 1 sticker on the engine cover) but here is Castrol recommending Magnatec, like I used in the PRV in the earlier XM. Would Magnatec perform just as well in the ES9J4 or is the synthetic superior? What would dealers use for oil changes?

Roger
 
Oil threads have a long and awful history ... but dealers would probably now mostly use a Total oil and likely a 5W30 full synthetic. Castrol provides some options, but they are obviously not all equal. The handbook supplied with a 1997 24 Valve XM (which seems to still show the PRV engine layout) lists choices of Quartz 9000 5W40, Quartz 7000 10W40 and Quartz 5000 15W40, depending on the ambient temperature. The last time this particular car had an oil change, 5W30 full synthetic was used by a NSW dealer. The choice probably depends on how and where you are going to use the car and how long between changes. Full synthetic 5W30 or 5W40 would be the choice if you plan for the 15K change interval. 20K was initially OK for the C5 V6, but you'd probably know that Citroen later opted for 10K services for most of their cars in Australia.

The 2008 Lube guide shows:
Oil_2008_ES.JPG


From the 2001 Mechanic's Handbook, remembering oil technology changes, the relevant pages are:

Oil_p29_2001.JPGOil_p21_2001.JPGOil_p22_2001.JPGOil_p23_2001.JPGOil_p24_2001.JPG
 
Last edited:
Thanks David. The potential for awfulness is a major reason why I am hiding these questions here, in what is almost a private conversation. I'll give addo his thread back soon!

So you can use 5W-30 and the oil must meet B3 or SJ. That Castrol Edge at Repco does that. I am happy to pay extra for a full synthetic oil in this engine. Is there any consensus around whether there is a problem swapping oil brands if they meet the same specifications?

And how might I obtain one of those mechanic's handbooks, suitable for a car with a build date of June 2000?

Roger
 
Roger Wilkinson said:
I'll give addo his thread back soon!
Click to expand...
We should, yes!

In the ACEA designations, A is for Petrol and B is for Diesel. The C series relate to ash in diesel usage, irrelevant here.

So the Castrol Edge A3/B4 5W30 is a blended high performance oil suiting both petrol and diesel engines and is one option listed for the Xantia V6. I'd be fairly sure your car would have been using either full synthetic 5W40 or 5W30 while in Sydney, but remember, bulk oils used by dealers are sometimes named differently to the retail product.

SJ is shown as the API (i.e. USA, not Euro ACEA) standard in 2001 listing, but SG/SH was the standard per the handbook with the 1997 XM I mentioned. Even the sub $10 GTX is SN, so it's moved along. However, an important change is the reduced ZDDP content with more recent API standards. That would not appear to be much of a concern with the PRV or ES9 engines, but it is something I'd be thinking about for a D engine. It's not really relevant to this thread, but always worth thinking about when buying oil for an older car.

I can e-mail you the 2001 handbook as it's too large a pdf to post here. pm me your preferred e-mail address. (and also your postal address for that rubber boot)
 
Last edited:
Back to the PRV and oil ... Castrol suggest for the 1991-97 XM V6
( and I'd think 10W40 might be the logical choice here ):

Magnatec_10W40.jpg
CASTROL MAGNATEC 10W-40​
Castrol Magnatec 10W-40 is suitable for petrol engines, direct and indirect injection engines, LPG and CNG cars, light commercial vehicles and 4WDs. Meets and exceeds API SN/CF, ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4 requirements. Now with ultra refined molecules for protection you can see, hear and feel. * As tested against the industry Sequence IVA wear test.​

GTX-MEng-15W40.jpg

​
or CASTROL GTX MODERN ENGINE 15W-40​
Castrol GTX Modern Engine 15W-40 provides greater reliability for your modern engine: Containing an anti-sludge formula that provides 25% better sludge protection compared to tough industry standards. Suitable for 4, 6 and 8 cylinder engines built by most manufacturers from 1995. Provides higher performance reserve for the longer oil change intervals and/or smaller sump sizes in modern cars. For all types of passenger cars, including 4WDs and light commercials. *vs. API SN/CF Industry Standards.
​


​
or CASTROL GTX 20W-50
Castrol GTX 20W-50 protects against problems, like sludge, that your engine faces every day. Severe driving conditions such as every day stop-start traffic, harsh weather conditions and extended drain intervals, can all cause the build-up of a thick, tar-like substance called sludge. You can't see this sludge build-up but it can damage your engine's performance and cause premature engine failure.
​


Service Refill Capacity: 7.0* Litres.
​
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top