Peugeot 404 injection - help in Brisbane

We could all be wrong - it might not be the chain tensioner. But, it sounds exactly like it, and I've had a number of 504s with rattley chains.

If the car has been sitting for 10 years then it's quite conceivable that the tensioner has become a bit clagged up, and then there is the issue of what the oil was like, etc.

Personally, and I know it's a bit of mucking around, I'd be inclined to take off the timing cover, remove the tensioner and give it a good clean out, checking the oil feed gallery behind said tensioner at the same time. Giving the engine a good run may help things as well.
 
Personally, and I know it's a bit of mucking around, I'd be inclined to take off the timing cover, remove the tensioner and give it a good clean out, checking the oil feed gallery behind said tensioner at the same time. Giving the engine a good run may help things as well.
It's been many years since I did a 504 timing chain, so assuming that the 404 has the same type of tensioner, don't you have to be careful that you don't unlock it when it is out of the car ? Or take it off while unlocked ? I have a vague memory that once it's gone SPROING, then it cannot be reloaded and put back in the car. Or am I thinking of some other type of engine ?
 
Easy to reload after it goes sproing. Same as 504. A batch of very early 404s had a toothed plastic (or maybe rubberised as in later OHC engines) belt for timing, would have been a lot quieter but wasn't continued for some reason.
 
Sounds like I'll do the following 1) not run the engine again until the timing chain tensioner is changed and tensioner oil filter cleaned, 2) get some help from someone who's done this before.

I found this link (in French but easily translated) which explains the process is quite some detail:


In this link the mechanic says:
'remove the chain tensioner after taking care to release its shoe from the action of its spring...block its system to prevent the tensioner from exploding in the garage when it is removed'.
There is a different method for doing this for Reynold and Sedis type tensioners (explained)
 
Sounds like I'll do the following 1) not run the engine again until the timing chain tensioner is changed and tensioner oil filter cleaned, 2) get some help from someone who's done this before.

I found this link (in French but easily translated) which explains the process is quite some detail:


In this link the mechanic says:
'remove the chain tensioner after taking care to release its shoe from the action of its spring...block its system to prevent the tensioner from exploding in the garage when it is removed'.
There is a different method for doing this for Reynold and Sedis type tensioners (explained)
There is a rotatable device with a screwdriver slot, in a hole on the side of the tensioner to keep the piston in the tensioner. After fitting rotate the slot to release the spring again.
 
Here is my suggestion: with a spanner on the harmonic balancer nut, rock the motor over in both directions backwards and forwards a number of times (say 20 or 30) and then see if this improves things.

I think you can get onto the harmonic nut from under the car, if not looks like you may be able to from above. You would only need to rotate the motor in each direction until the crank just moves, this may make the chain slack take up a bit in and out each time i.e. work the tensioner shoe travel in and out a little and exercise it, it may free things up? This might also be achieved by starting and stopping the engine numbers of times, though would take longer because you would have to let the oil pressure leak down to "0" before restarting each time.

What do people think???????


Also see post #60 are things OK with the clutch/flywheel/thrust bearing assembly? Noise may be transferring through to the front of the engine. ( The 2nd recording appears to have an intermittent groaning noise).

Just thoughts good luck :)
Note I have been wrong before.
 
A short turn fix may be to put some lifters ease in it ,it's designed to free up hydraulic lifters that are blocked with crud ,but I would be inclined to re do the oil and filter after the noise has gone as all that crud has to have gone somewhere ,or replace that filter and check on the tensioner and guides ,I don't understand the coming and going bit ,I would be inclined to get it looked at by a profeional before any permanent damage is done !
 
Thanks BigRR and pugwash and everyone else for the imput and suggestions. I've just order a timing chain tensioner and a few other pieces from Serie04 in France. For better or worse (mostly worse for my wallet), I'm doing exactly what pugwash recommends and leaving it now for a mechanic to take a look. The car is booked in for just after Easter, and I'll also get the brakes looked at. I'll come back to the thread with the verdict and hopefully and smooth running engine.
 
I'm finally back with some news about my 404 cab injections. The source of the rattle ... a loose alternator :) The timing chain tensioner and belt had in fact been changed with the engine recondition but their was an issue with alignment, which is now fixed.

Sadly, the car is now to be sold. I have just posted a for-sale ad on aussiefrogs here: 1964 Peugeot 404 cabriolet (injection), and I'll post the ad in other places.

Thanks again for all the comments in this thread!

BruceB
 
Well, there you go. It does go to show how it can be hard to diagnose a fault without being there in person. Good to hear it is sorted. They are great looking cars.
 
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