Peugeot 404 injection - help in Brisbane

Peugeot Car Club of Victoria has these filters available, one of the advantages of joining.
 
Or the filter wasnt cleaned at the re build ,and the crud has dried up solid, being out of use for so tlong
 
Time and age mean a few of these questions will go unanswered. But the engine certainly wasn't rattling after the rebuild and before being garaged. So unless it's a bad idea, will start with the simple. Oil filter change and oil flush. If that doesn't help, I guess the next step will be to wait for the mechanic to take a look.
 
from ignorance; is it not easy to get to the timing chain on these?
 
Pug72 said:
Will need to remove radiator...
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And take off front belts and pully. Easy job to change the tensioner once the cover is off. No seal on the front, centralise the cover with tape around the spiral on the pully.
 
Things a moving a bit slow from my end, but plan to change the oil filter and do the oil flush thursday night / friday morning. If this doesn't fix it, I might be a able to get some help to change the timing chain tensioner. This isn't something I've done before. If it comes to that, it is a job that can be paused mid-way if I need further advice? Or would it just leak oil once the timing gear housing is removed?

The timing gear housing has a different profile on the cab compared to the sedan, so not sure if I'd need to have a new gasket custom made or source original gasket prior to starting the job (part 0321.15 in image).
 

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Correction - I mean the injection engine has a different timing gear housing profile to the carburetor engine
 
It's no hard to make a replacement cork gasket. All that is required is the coverplate to use as a template.
 
I had 2 adjusters flick back after the engine ran for an hour or so. Plus a chain rattles if the sprockets are worn as the teeth flick the blasted roller as it leaves the sprocket. Could be sprocket wear too?
 
^^ Crikey, really ? That may well be the problem.

When I first started working on 504s, after changing a couple of tensioners I always wondered if they could flick back. But I finally concluded that they could not because of some kind of tipping point that seems to be between the unlocked extreme and the locked extreme.
 
I've now changed the oil filtre (the old one was in ok condition) and done an oil flush. The engine is now running a bit better but the rattle is coming on and off again (see video). Does it still make sence that it is the timing chain tensioner?

Peter
 

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It seems to make sense that there is now intermittent oil flow to the tensioner, whereas previously it was consistently poor until the engine got hot, which I suppose thinned out the oil enough for the tensioner to operate okay.

So we may be back to the diagnosis that the gauze filter behind the tensioner is clogged....now only partially.
 
Beano said:
It seems to make sense that there is now intermittent oil flow to the tensioner, whereas previously it was consistently poor until the engine got hot, which I suppose thinned out the oil enough for the tensioner to operate okay.

So we may be back to the diagnosis that the gauze filter behind the tensioner is clogged....now only partially.
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(y)
 
given then noise I rekcon its rotational.

ie: harmonic balancer
-loose mechanical fan
-loose clutch/flywheel

Does the sound go away if you push on the clutch?

if its a slugomatic, does it go away if put into gear? (loose converter or cracked flex plate)
 
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