Peugeot 205 Si

Exhaust is after market. Pipes look too small. They always use a size smaller when building up a replacement system. I asked for a low restriction muffler when I had work done on the white car, seemed to do the job.
 
Didn't do anything to the exhaust on that one, went OK though.
 
Hnet.com-image.jpg

Ok, so first question, is there a proper way to get the hubs to let go of the struts? Faaaaaark! Can't imagine doing that while they're on a car. Anyway, they're off now.

I'm going to clean everything up before I put it all back together again. Is there anything I should be looking to replace or refurbish? The LCAs and ARB bushes are on the list so far. Brake hoses too. Is there anything I should be checking for serviceability? And how?

Cheers
Nik
 
is there a proper way to get the hubs to let go of the struts ?

a little bit of WD40 around where the hub clamps the strut (dont know if its necessary but cant hurt)
then undo the bolt
and then just carefully tap a cold chisel into the split
no need to whack it or anything, just enough to unclamp and the strut slips out
especially in australia where there's rarely ever any corrosion

everything looks really good
get some strut top bearings, yours will probably be working ok but they get a bit gummed up after 25 years
you can get a kit with the rubbers and bearings but your rubbers will be fine
if you replace the strut top bearings yourself just make sure you have a nice set of spring compressors
or you can take them into a tyre shop which is way easier and less scary
if your ball joints were shot you'd already know, same for wheel bearings so no worries there
check your disk pads have plenty left and change if not
and the book has minimums for the disc rotors (at the beginning of the brake chapter)
check with a set of calipers, so do that also and get a new SET if needed

also, haven't done it myself yet but seam welding up the subframe strengthens it while its out
will do it one day..
 
The manual sez to insert an Allen key in the split on the flats and then twist on the apex to spread the split. It works, but you need something to keep the Allen on the apex.
 
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Any hints on how to undo the brake lines? Tried a brake line spanner: didn't move the nut, but did a nice job of starting the rounding off process. :mad:

If I use vice grips, and destroy everything in the process, I take it I'm in 'please bend me some new brake lines' territory. Maybe I should just go there and get on with it...
 

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I have never managed to get flare spanners to work until I splashed out and bought a set of German made Stahlwille. They look like this and cost as much:

WURTH BRAKE LINE PIPE SPANNER WRENCH SET, FLEXIBLE, 4 PIECES 8 mm to 15 mm - HS Autoparts

hsautoparts.com.au hsautoparts.com.au

These are made to tighten and grab harder when you put force on them. The cheap versions just open up when you put force on them and the results are as you have noticed.

Another one that works if you have enough room around there (you do now, but it wouldn't be that easy with the brakes on the car) is a good quality adjustable wrench (I have a small Bahco). That cost about as much as the Stahlwilles above. The difference to crap quality wrenches is that once set to size the Bahco does not flap around and grabs like doberman on the flats. Mine is this one:

www.gasweld.com.au

ERGO™ Central Nut Wide Opening Thin Jaw 38mm Adjustable Wrench 218mm

Adjustable wrenches developed according to the scientific ERGO™ process. Extra-wide jaw opening with a shorter handle than a standard wrench offers accessibility to work in confined spaces. Up to 45% thinner jaws than standard wrenches of the same size give greater access in tight spaces. 40%...
www.gasweld.com.au www.gasweld.com.au

I see they have come down in price now, mine was bought about 15 years ago. I bought it because it was the only thing I found that could do/undo the unobtainium speedo drive on my R17G gearbox at 200Nm torque (thin flats under the plastic worm) without destroying it.
 
Thanks for the quick reply - those brake line spanners look like a quality bit of engineering. And are priced according!

That shifter looks pretty nice too! I particularly love this feature: "The handle never feels too warm or too cold".

The above notwithstanding, I suspect the cheapest way out of this problem is going to be a couple of new lines...
 
Now that you have them off the car you can use the Bahco. I would buy it for that price in an instant. You will never regret it and it will definitely be cheaper than new lines. The most surprising feature I found is that once you set it and put it on the fastener it grabs so hard, it doesn't let go. You actually have to undo it a bit to get it off the hex. Don't know why that is, most cheapo slide right off before you even put enough force on them, but this thing seems to tighten itself as force is applied. The more force, the harder it is to get it off.

Long term, you will need something like the Stahlwille anyway otherwise every time you need to work on the brakes, you will need new lines. Think replacing flexible hoses at the end of those brake lines.

And you need (most of the time) something to grab the nut at the end of the hard line too to keep it from moving and twisting the line when you undo the flexible hose. Relying on the locating fixtures built into the car bracketry doesn't always work. I have twisted lines in their locating brackets against the thin sheet metal hexes built into the bracket many times with disastrous results for both line and bracket. You don't want that. That is why in the end I splashed out.
 
Makes sense; on the shopping list. But this is a today job. So, I 'fixed' it.
 

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And the drive shafts? What do I do about those when I'm dropping out the subframe?
- Release strut from hub.
- Undo bottom ball joint.
- Undo hub nut.
- Release steering ball joint.
- Drive shaft slips out of hub; stays in gearbox.

Is that right?
 
Completely remove driveshafts. They just get in your way and you’ll break a boot.
 
Ok. And sorry if this is a dummy question - but what do I need to take off to remove the drive shafts? Do I take the calipers and brake rotor off?
 
absolutely, the caliper, then the hub nut and hub has to be pushed off the end of the driveshaft. Or removed from shock.
 
Don't forget to drain the g'box otherwise it will do it by itself on your floor.

Now I remembered, there is a vise grip you can buy that is designed to grip six sided heads:

Wrenches | IRWIN

Constructed from the highest grade cast iron, forged and heat treated to ensure maximum durability, IRWIN® Pipe Wrenches are made for a variety of uses on the jobsite.
www.irwin.com www.irwin.com

That is helpful too, provided you have the room to get it on. I have the smallest size they make.
 
As another alternative, I would also suggest freeze and release from Loctite. I have never tried it on brakes lines, but with broken headbolts it worked. It is not cheap (you can almost buy tools for the price) but if you can't find the tools and you're desperate, it may get you out of trouble.
 
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