My R12 POS Arrived!

Well that solves that mystery.

For Sale, 1 x new rear wagon passenger door.

Like, new. like it came in a box like new.

Has been painted nearly yellow, will need to finish the job / re paint.

Now, anyone got a rear passenger sedan door that isn't totally rusted out? Or the window rail in a rusted door I can cut out and re/use?

(Thank you Col)
 
Last edited:
The NSWRRC where holding a club level supersprint on site today. This is interesting because we, the ARDC do not hold any "club" level events any-more. Why is that interesting? Well the rules relating to needing a roll cage are different. From Cams Schedule J;

3.
APPLICATION
A safety cage structure complying with Schedule J is required as follows:

3.2
SPEED AND REGULARITY EVENTS:
(a) Each 1st Category vehicle in a Speed or Regularity Event.
(b) State Championship and above level
Speed Event and Regularity Event, other than:
(i) a vehicle of the 5th Category (unless otherwise specified in the Historic Technical
Regulations); or
(ii) a vehicle which is road registered.

So cool! welcome the grey area where unregistered vehicles don't need a cage. I have one of them I thought to myself, so I set about to bring my POS in to check what else they wanted done..

Being polite no doubt, they commented initially,

"You have yourself here a very nice paddock basher."

Long story short, I had incorrectly inferred from the Sup Regs for the event, that my vehicle need only compile with Category A & B. These are the basic regs that every vehicle (cough cough time attack cars are special cough cough) need to apply.

The friendly Scrutineer from the RRC set about explaining how I got this all pared shaped as far as Cams is concerned.

Lesson 1)
A car needs a face! In that it needs to be "something". What? I need to belong to a "race category" in addition to compiling with schedule A/B. What this means is I need to choose between the following from the race specification of automobiles, and for the craft to comply with their regs initially.

https://www.cams.com.au/regulations/manual/race

A brief table for you here;

Cat 1 = Open wheelers
Cat 2 = Sports Cars
Cat 3 = Touring Cars
Cat 4 = Off Road cars
Cat 5 = Historic Cars
Cat 6 = Others... (bizarrely some TA2's and WTAC cars)

Lesson 2)
If it's not mentioned in the Cams reg's, that doesn't mean it's free or not controlled for, that means it off limits. The Cams regs in fact, is a document of allowances, rather then restrictions.

Lesson 3)
Officials change there mind from event to event. This seems highly dodge, but it was explained that ultimately the Stewards are absorbing the risk, if they agree xyz will be allowed, that is on them. We as competitors have signed our waiver putting us at hands to the stewards. Hence why I was able to enter an event at Awaba despite the vehicle not meeting anything. I suppose this goes a long way to the history of confusion and the tales of what is allowed and not.

Lesson 4)
Some officials will warrant mechanisms above what is required, and that's where the Sup Regs will detail. So, not uncommon to have to make changes from event to event in order to satisfy where you are / which club is hosting / what style of event.

So what does all this mean for my POS? We'll I'm going to have to go either; get it rego'd (unlikely now it doesn't have windows) or put a cage it in and get it logged booked, after first, deciding what to build it towards. Currently, as we expected, it's closer a Cat 3 craft, and particularly, a Sports Sedan as I've fitting plastique windows. I was prepared for this, so it's not a total surprise, but just a further delay in moving on with it. Half expected, but I got excited after reading about the roll cage exception for club events.

Which brings me to another point. How you could meet a race category, without it being rego'd without a cage is beyond me. So now I'm a bit lost as to what that section in Schedule J 3.2 is trying to say.

Anyways, no club racing for me, and mandatory cams regs are dumb ho hum.

But still thanks to the NSW RRC for being able to spend time with me today and talk to the matter.
 
I always though CAMs would be a problem for you. I haven't heard of Supertt but it seems to suit your situation. Bit more realistic than CAMs.
 
No surprises to anyone following this journey. Pretty much sums up the history of motor sport/car racing.

Modify the car to have some fun, drive around a race track, have the most driving a car .. ever! Make more modifications, forget this rego stuff, too restricting, make more modifications. Take car back to race track to compete with other similarly modified cars however there are none ? The rules don't suit the car I have built.

Now either build a car that fits a race category or create a new category that suits the car. That's not so hard these days, find about 6 or 7 other cars like yours and you have a race series.
 
lol that's a thought.

Introducing the Plastic window European championship where all steel bumper bars are banned and electronic ignition is encouraged.

The SuperTT rules promoted by MRA are pretty close though, the kicker is of course there are still not that many AASA run events here, it's structurally going to be easier to play by the CAMS rules, in regards to log booking the car, as AASA accepts cams log books.

So.. Renault 12 Sports Sedan, so I can enter club level Supersprints, here I come.
 
Well there is $1062 saved in the roll cage fund, so everything is so far going to plan in that regard.

With that in mind I pulled the dash and wiring looms (as you might have seen from the other threads) and have started testing fitting the few circuits I'll need.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/iS1kyBD1rXT1GgwM6

:roflmao:

Might have a use for it's first licence plate yet :p

Turns out I really only have three circuits I'll need activated by a relay; Fan, Windscreen wiper and 02 sensor. I think I'll have fuses on nearly each device;

Fuse A) ECU / Coil (always on / along with switched override for the ECU for table edition)
Fuse B) Fan (always on / thermo switch)
Fuse C) Windscreen wiper (always on / cabin switch)
Fuse D) Rear circuit, parkers (I mean rain lights :p) and brake lights, (cabin switched and pressure switch)
Fuse E) 02 sensor (on whilst running, but unsure how to control this, I may have a manual switch also and add it to a procedure to ensure it gets turned on when the car is running..)

That's it. That's the race car.

The "kill switch" will act as the ignition. That is when off it will isolate the '+ve between the cabin and battery, and when on, will provide power to the "always on" as listed above. Others have commented I could use a 2 point kill switch and a beefy relay initially, which then switched a distro board full of relays / the circuits above. That might be a neater idea then worrying about the 6 point kill switch that provided a resistance for the alternator to ground.

Should I be concerned with looking after the alternator / regulator in that regard? i.e removing the battery '+ve circuit from it whilst running?

I also found my spare water sensor plate, I can take that to hardware store and find the right collar to mount the smaller sensor for some hard lined dials that someone pulled out of something once upon a time.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/fWLtUJKeiqN12xcY9

Do you think 8k is being a bit optimistic :p This has a probe and section that you would connect the lower radiator hose to, but I can remove the sensor from it's housing and adapt it into the factory head location so this is what I'll do.

Anyone need an early Jaeger dash with a genuine 82k miles on it?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/e4xBQ1JcXMPeQ6fR7

Most of the bulbs work if that's of interest to someone.

Cheers,
Dan
 
Last edited:
Progress!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ow2JwEpXVgnWCznh6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/1rgN3AbgSGpNmBU99

I won't tell you how long it took to grind out a 22mm orifice to a a 25mm orifice because one n00b cut a hole too big and then needed to drill out the middle of a large washer to secure it.

Anyway, drain pipe clamp to the rescue. It is;

- rugged enough
- tall enough
- easy to work with
- and has heaps of surface area to ensure cables are neat.

I even thought about it and set it up so the off position is nearest to the starter switch, ie. you can't accidentality bump stuff. Points to me!

Now to decide where to put the battery. I'm going to need to make more battery cable for what ever I do, perhaps there is sense in moving it as low as possible, or into the rear.

I don't "need" the room in the engine bay, and it's unlikely I'll have a passenger in this thing ever again. Perhaps I should move it inside now. Hmmmm.
 
Onya Bowie, there are a few of us just spectatin' your thread, I reckon. One of the best on AF....top entertainment based on one of my favourite cars.
 
Ah it's all good fun ain't it. I mean some people have nice cars, some people have fast cars, I have, er. well anyway :roflmao:

Another childhood goal reached this evening, QUAD bonnet pins!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/r3cV2SGDNePV3ukN9

I've always wanted a car full of pins Why? I'm not exactly sure but I vaguely remember a 4x4 TX3 my mate had in high school, it had pins in each corner and I thought it was the stupidest thing ever.

Pins allowed me to cut the rest of the underside away, along with the beefy locator and the hinges. And! all the measurement have been done for when that panel becomes fibreglass (probably never)

Is it now harder to open? Yes.
Will it be cool taking the panel off during inspection? Yes.

Back to thinking about the battery location. Maybe inline with the rear axle behind in front of the fuel tank? AKA, like this cool chap did in the UK.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/5LsEgSaF62vJpbt99

I love how he recycled the OG battery holder. Respect for the Recycling.
 
To help you decide, I see a good place for the battery on the floor behind the passenger seat, if one was to be fitted. A seat could be useful if you need to avoid being classified as a single seat race car. It can also be useful for sponsor rides, media days, charity laps, getting some instruction from a pro driver/instructor etc.

TRI18E2.jpg
 
Yes that position is the lowest part of the car, and on the short list also. I couldn't remember / can't find anything in the regs describing if CAMS cares about batteries being exposed within the cabin or not.

That position would save a bit of coin on the cable length also.
 
Battery in the boot is a good location however the one from the UK is way too high for a good c of g. If you go to the trouble of moving it, do it in a way that will give the most benefit for the effort involved.
 
Bustamif said:
To help you decide, I see a good place for the battery on the floor behind the passenger seat, if one was to be fitted. A seat could be useful if you need to avoid being classified as a single seat race car. It can also be useful for sponsor rides, media days, charity laps, getting some instruction from a pro driver/instructor etc.

View attachment 116376
Click to expand...

If you are mounting the battery inside the passenger compartment, I would be putting the battery inside a battery box. :2cents:

That should also keep the CAMS scrutineers happy also.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top