...you crazy guy :roflmao:
My R12 POS Arrived!
- Thread starter Bowie
- Start date
Getting lighter.
Dash and engine / body loom was worth 40kgs! https://photos.app.goo.gl/NTPSGpYFyqSG1r217 I want to see a 6 at the start there... Knowing a cage will add 100kg easy. There are still a few brackets left around to liberate, and it still has the original heavy battery, and there are heads of new longer steel bolts I can replace with some shorter ones..
Oh and the door handles,
Oh and the side vents,
Oh and the boot brackets for the jack etc,
Oh yeah I reckon this will work
And the roof?
Ally bonnet.
Yourself....
Some alloy wheels should shed a few k's.
Maybe a smaller and/or plastic fuel tank.
Maybe a smaller and/or plastic fuel tank.
Bowie, i just fitted a cams spec halfcage in my alfa 75 racecar and it only weighs about 20 kgs including bolts and mounting points etc.so a full cage in your car should not exceed 50 kgs ???
Ha.... maybe it wont be so bad then.
If I end up with a car that is 750kg, and I mange my aim of 100hp, well the "magical" 133.33hp per ton would be achieved, and I think that's a sensible goal with a car with only three wheel studs.
If I end up with a car that is 750kg, and I mange my aim of 100hp, well the "magical" 133.33hp per ton would be achieved, and I think that's a sensible goal with a car with only three wheel studs.
Turbo and intercooler +15kg.
ITS A NEW RECORD!
Well for me anyway. The GPS said I did a 2m:16s, a couple of times! Julian from RenoTech had a day out at work and I had an afternoon of avoiding emails... (sorry if you aware waiting on a reply)
If you haven't been on a track with another bunch of reno's you just need to. How to explain. You just feel proud, simple as that. And because you know the cars on the track you know what to expect, you have an idea of how they brake / accelerate, its a comfortable feeling
Anyway prior personal record was a 2m:23, so I'm hella impressed at the improvement. So what had changed from last time? Well it's ~40kg lighter then last time, and I was braver into turn 2, 4, 5, and still don't know what I'm doing at the hairpin.
I feel like I just need to re state my car is still old!. Non vented brakes, heck I haven't even looked at the pads since I bought it 7 yrs ago (Kenny did you change the pads?) Point being you can still have a bloody blast and it wont kill you, or explode, or fall to pieces. Get out there! go have a ball!
Some lessons!
1) Fuel Pressure at 7psi
I was complaining about the thing dying at 5k rpm and struggling there after. turns out smart smart Bowie, measured and check the pressure at idle, and not at 4k, 5k, 6k. At 5k there is 7psi showing! amazing the thing is not just stalling :S This was discovered at the end of the day, can't wait for the next track day now
#EDIT
Wait, I'm not sure I understand fuel pressure / volume here. Having a moment to stop and think about it, rising pressure with rpm doesn't immediately sound stupid... I need to read more.
2) Bonnet Flap
With out the headlights, the bonnet is dancing above 100km. After 50mins on the track (they ran an open pit lane in the afternoon) the bonnet supports had vibrated / pulled themself loose. Not cool Jan. I'm going to have to look at adding some vents out of the side guards, or maybe up into the scuttle panel in order to give that wind somewhere to go. I'm also going to have to fill in those apertures left by the lights, or direct it onto hot stuff at least. I wonder if tyre temp is protected somewhat bu those openings. Hmmm...
No bonnet flap here, but transparent headlights
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ohuWUrhfLf6BDJEY9
3) Fuel everywhere
Even with a half tank, it's still pissing fuel everywhere.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/QqAn7PEWbP4PiddGA
Heck it's nearly horizontal to the right :S. Do I dare drill into the filler pipe and add some kind of grommet to take a fuel line and attach it high, perhaps in the guard or behind the rear window in order to vent, and then fit a sealed fuel cap sealing that leak?
I've tried a couple of paper gaskets on top of a pretty good seal, for all I know it could be coming straight out of the key hole.
4) Just go fang it
Really really really. just take what ever you have (if you are interested in flooring it) and go smack it around the race track. It won't blow up, I promise!
I've managed to save $2k for the roll cage fund. I reckon another $1k will have plenty of change left over, then I can actually start entering silly events and "competing" What a hoot this will be!
VIV LA FRANCE!
Well for me anyway. The GPS said I did a 2m:16s, a couple of times! Julian from RenoTech had a day out at work and I had an afternoon of avoiding emails... (sorry if you aware waiting on a reply)
If you haven't been on a track with another bunch of reno's you just need to. How to explain. You just feel proud, simple as that. And because you know the cars on the track you know what to expect, you have an idea of how they brake / accelerate, its a comfortable feeling
Anyway prior personal record was a 2m:23, so I'm hella impressed at the improvement. So what had changed from last time? Well it's ~40kg lighter then last time, and I was braver into turn 2, 4, 5, and still don't know what I'm doing at the hairpin.
I feel like I just need to re state my car is still old!. Non vented brakes, heck I haven't even looked at the pads since I bought it 7 yrs ago (Kenny did you change the pads?) Point being you can still have a bloody blast and it wont kill you, or explode, or fall to pieces. Get out there! go have a ball!
Some lessons!
1) Fuel Pressure at 7psi
I was complaining about the thing dying at 5k rpm and struggling there after. turns out smart smart Bowie, measured and check the pressure at idle, and not at 4k, 5k, 6k. At 5k there is 7psi showing! amazing the thing is not just stalling :S This was discovered at the end of the day, can't wait for the next track day now
#EDIT
Wait, I'm not sure I understand fuel pressure / volume here. Having a moment to stop and think about it, rising pressure with rpm doesn't immediately sound stupid... I need to read more.
2) Bonnet Flap
With out the headlights, the bonnet is dancing above 100km. After 50mins on the track (they ran an open pit lane in the afternoon) the bonnet supports had vibrated / pulled themself loose. Not cool Jan. I'm going to have to look at adding some vents out of the side guards, or maybe up into the scuttle panel in order to give that wind somewhere to go. I'm also going to have to fill in those apertures left by the lights, or direct it onto hot stuff at least. I wonder if tyre temp is protected somewhat bu those openings. Hmmm...
No bonnet flap here, but transparent headlights
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ohuWUrhfLf6BDJEY9
3) Fuel everywhere
Even with a half tank, it's still pissing fuel everywhere.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/QqAn7PEWbP4PiddGA
Heck it's nearly horizontal to the right :S. Do I dare drill into the filler pipe and add some kind of grommet to take a fuel line and attach it high, perhaps in the guard or behind the rear window in order to vent, and then fit a sealed fuel cap sealing that leak?
I've tried a couple of paper gaskets on top of a pretty good seal, for all I know it could be coming straight out of the key hole.
4) Just go fang it
Really really really. just take what ever you have (if you are interested in flooring it) and go smack it around the race track. It won't blow up, I promise!
I've managed to save $2k for the roll cage fund. I reckon another $1k will have plenty of change left over, then I can actually start entering silly events and "competing" What a hoot this will be!
VIV LA FRANCE!
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I feel like now I'm driving it faster it's time to dispel myths from pages and pages ok.
Heading around Turn 4 and 5 at SMSP, you can leave the nugget in fourth, keep it flat, and turn it in by lifting of the gas for a brief moment. Prior I was waxing lyrical about this rear wheel steering sensation I used to feel up around the Victorian mountains, clearly at slower speeds that effect is there but quicker it behaves as you imagine a FWD boat should. I was very pleased with the amount of turn in I could get actually lifting mid turn, It unsettles it enough that you trust the tyre to slip / grip enough to aim it more or less where you think you want before then being delivered understeer as you are slowly pulled out
Turns 4 and 5 are now my favourite, for that fact that you are briefly sliding / rolling the tyre... to steer it. :roflmao:
You all need a sh1t race car to fsk around with. Or a nice one, I suppose that's ok too.
Heading around Turn 4 and 5 at SMSP, you can leave the nugget in fourth, keep it flat, and turn it in by lifting of the gas for a brief moment. Prior I was waxing lyrical about this rear wheel steering sensation I used to feel up around the Victorian mountains, clearly at slower speeds that effect is there but quicker it behaves as you imagine a FWD boat should. I was very pleased with the amount of turn in I could get actually lifting mid turn, It unsettles it enough that you trust the tyre to slip / grip enough to aim it more or less where you think you want before then being delivered understeer as you are slowly pulled out
Turns 4 and 5 are now my favourite, for that fact that you are briefly sliding / rolling the tyre... to steer it. :roflmao:
You all need a sh1t race car to fsk around with. Or a nice one, I suppose that's ok too.
Nice Bowie!!!
Funny how you promote the racing to others as good fun but I don't think you'll have a line of guys joining you. We are only a handfull doing it.
An old saying: "If you want to go faster, brake better." Maybe that could be your next step?
Bonnet flap. My race car has no stiffening either but I bought some thin gauge aluminium angles at Bunnings and a good double sided tape from 3M. Stick the 2 angles back to back, that should give you a "T" shape, stick the T with the same tape on the inside on strategic positions. I bent it successfully to the same arc as required little by little in the vice. It works a dream and you won't be able to pull it off, that's how strong it sticks and it weighs nothing at all.
Regards, Frans.
Funny how you promote the racing to others as good fun but I don't think you'll have a line of guys joining you. We are only a handfull doing it.
An old saying: "If you want to go faster, brake better." Maybe that could be your next step?
Bonnet flap. My race car has no stiffening either but I bought some thin gauge aluminium angles at Bunnings and a good double sided tape from 3M. Stick the 2 angles back to back, that should give you a "T" shape, stick the T with the same tape on the inside on strategic positions. I bent it successfully to the same arc as required little by little in the vice. It works a dream and you won't be able to pull it off, that's how strong it sticks and it weighs nothing at all.
Regards, Frans.
I was thinking it was only this bad after removing the headlights. I now have these great big vents in the front that must be directing air in. I was thinking about making some exhaust vents up into the plenum, or outside the guards (perhaps where they usually rust) in effort to direct air somewhere.
But first to test the theory, I'll make some blanking plates and fill those gaps and see what happens.
The double sided tape and bits of aluminium is a great idea however!
Agree re the braking. I still need to put the venter 17discs on it too! I just need to braver.
But first to test the theory, I'll make some blanking plates and fill those gaps and see what happens.
The double sided tape and bits of aluminium is a great idea however!
Agree re the braking. I still need to put the venter 17discs on it too! I just need to braver.
If you can find one you need a 17TS/G booster. They are bigger than 12/17 boosters and I believe double acting. Make the brakes equel to any modern car. At least till the pads get too hot.
I have the booster, master cylinder, and brakes from a 15ts. Near enough or different again?
Also Camber update!
I borrowed the hoist after all my emails where sorted, and yelled over to the man with the strong arm to wack the sh1t out of the ball jointsm as it was clear, I had not enough swang in my arm to persuade them After much faffing we managed to release the spindle and the upper ball joint was exposed.
"Great! We just have to drill out the smaller holes and rotate it. Free Camber!" I declared to the small group of unimpressed mechanics looking worried.
"Is there really enough meat left on the end to bring them out?"
"Sure!" I declared "others have done this before me. "it's ok, I read this on the internet"
It was at this point the adults around me started to look a little worried. A bit of head scratching and measuring later.
"I don't think this is a good idea Dan... There is a lot of weight on this little well it will be a clip once we drill it out to reverse it. Are you sure others have done this?"
"Yeah pretty sure.." I replied, and they sensed the hesitation in my voice and that was it.
"Nah. don't do it. lets talk about making the lower longer"
To be continued.....
Also Camber update!
I borrowed the hoist after all my emails where sorted, and yelled over to the man with the strong arm to wack the sh1t out of the ball jointsm as it was clear, I had not enough swang in my arm to persuade them
After much faffing we managed to release the spindle and the upper ball joint was exposed. "Great! We just have to drill out the smaller holes and rotate it. Free Camber!" I declared to the small group of unimpressed mechanics looking worried.
"Is there really enough meat left on the end to bring them out?"
"Sure!" I declared "others have done this before me. "it's ok, I read this on the internet"
It was at this point the adults around me started to look a little worried. A bit of head scratching and measuring later.
"I don't think this is a good idea Dan... There is a lot of weight on this little well it will be a clip once we drill it out to reverse it. Are you sure others have done this?"
"Yeah pretty sure.." I replied, and they sensed the hesitation in my voice and that was it.
"Nah. don't do it. lets talk about making the lower longer"
To be continued.....
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bo1636573 said:
I would have considered those 'great big vents in the front' as miniature parachutes causing drag and slowing you down. even without the headlight buckets. Once the air is in the guard there's no inner guard to direct the air down and out so a lot of it's just drag.
Covering over the headlight holes and getting the air to flow around the front rather than through it should be more efficient. Or hook up a hose or duct so the air that coming in is directed onto the brakes.
15TS booster different, not as big or as powerful. Mind you it probably only means you press harder but I suspect that means a very small timing gap between full on. Also not as finely set for a quick stab when needed. Much difference? Probably not but when a second a lap counts, perhaps. To me the brakes just felt nicer on my 17TS than my 15, but perhaps thats because the 17 has a similar feel to a modern car.
Direct the air onto the brakes its a no brainer.
Negative camber was easy I just extended the lower pivot mount hole out a bit with around file and welded a washer or light plate on the bracket for strenght. So long ago now I cannot remember how far but it was just a mm or 2 or 3 or ? I had to check each side as one side already had a bit less positive camber than the other. Not sure if it was by design or just assemby line jig wear. Wonder why they had positive camber in the first place?
Direct the air onto the brakes its a no brainer.
Negative camber was easy I just extended the lower pivot mount hole out a bit with around file and welded a washer or light plate on the bracket for strenght. So long ago now I cannot remember how far but it was just a mm or 2 or 3 or ? I had to check each side as one side already had a bit less positive camber than the other. Not sure if it was by design or just assemby line jig wear. Wonder why they had positive camber in the first place?
Oh in all the excitement I forgot to show you the latest aero kit!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/sLvYBMyU8XPe8uGZA
https://photos.app.goo.gl/gvBikaJoJtcNUMRo8
You only moved the rear outwards a couple of mm? some back of hand measurements would suggest I would need 50, 60mm to get about 2 degree at the front.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/sLvYBMyU8XPe8uGZA
https://photos.app.goo.gl/gvBikaJoJtcNUMRo8
You only moved the rear outwards a couple of mm? some back of hand measurements would suggest I would need 50, 60mm to get about 2 degree at the front.
Nuh decimal point in the wrong spot. May be 5 or 6 mm. But even that seems a bit much from my memory of it.
Dan, measure everything and draw a 1:1 scale picture on paper. It will then become apparent how much you need to move the balljoint. I modified a pair of lower arms by extending them by 1cm. That will be close to the couple of degrees you're chasing. I used four arms to do that, cut the ends off a pair and 1cm further in off the other pair and had the bits welded to the first pair. This is after I took the reinforcing bottom plate off. Made up new reinforcing plates 1cm longer and welded those back on. All of that done in a jig to keep alignment and help with accurate measurements.
Thanks for the rough confirming yee above.
Putting measurements to one side... it now has an electric be gone cable!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/KsBpWnZe4FHY5uqw9
That actually took more thought then it should have, I'm going to go back and borrow a cable bracket from my bicycle parts bin to hold the outer cable.
Also in other fun news, it now has plastic headlights.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/yKhvoHU6voJX1XjX9
https://photos.app.goo.gl/jyVAS7apNz5fs1aL6
Well it has a thin sheet of PVC screwed into position in effort to stop the bonnet flapping.
"What are you talking about Dan?"
Well last track day the bonnet was like your girlfriends skirt billowing under it's pins. The difference was that the lights had been removed, will be interested to see if this fixes it.
This was all caused by the HSRCA whom was holding a round at work, Hopefully I've got some photos to share later, was a great little meeting with some fantastic exotic sports cars.
I think my fav was this guy from Tasmania whom build a, I'm going to say can-am style sports car with a Holden 202 with a trio of the biggest webers I have ever seen. I must look up the program and work out who / what it was. Ah! Peter Turnbull
Turnham Sports Cars
His square sports car with a 202 was sic!
There was also a resident frogger there in a simply beautiful JWS C2.
I'll let him chime in and tell you how sick it is.
Sports cars are just freekin sex!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/KsBpWnZe4FHY5uqw9
That actually took more thought then it should have, I'm going to go back and borrow a cable bracket from my bicycle parts bin to hold the outer cable.
Also in other fun news, it now has plastic headlights.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/yKhvoHU6voJX1XjX9
https://photos.app.goo.gl/jyVAS7apNz5fs1aL6
Well it has a thin sheet of PVC screwed into position in effort to stop the bonnet flapping.
"What are you talking about Dan?"
Well last track day the bonnet was like your girlfriends skirt billowing under it's pins. The difference was that the lights had been removed, will be interested to see if this fixes it.
This was all caused by the HSRCA whom was holding a round at work, Hopefully I've got some photos to share later, was a great little meeting with some fantastic exotic sports cars.
I think my fav was this guy from Tasmania whom build a, I'm going to say can-am style sports car with a Holden 202 with a trio of the biggest webers I have ever seen. I must look up the program and work out who / what it was. Ah! Peter Turnbull
Turnham Sports Cars
His square sports car with a 202 was sic!
There was also a resident frogger there in a simply beautiful JWS C2.
I'll let him chime in and tell you how sick it is.
Sports cars are just freekin sex!