Modern Alternator for Citroen DS

citroenthusiast said:
At least one solution would be to use the old regulator as a binding post. Disconnect the BOB wire from the regulator and insulate it for safety. Tie the L wire and the former EXC wire together using the EXE terminal on the vestigial regulator as the binding post. (The EXE terminal is not connected to anything once the BOB wire is disconnected). Then, connect the EXC wire (which has a spade terminal at the alternator end) to the "lamp" post on the new alternator. Basically, you are commandeering the EXE wire to extend the L wire to the alternator. No changes to the wiring loom.
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Following this discussion with great interest, since I bought a new alternator with integrated regulator from Der Franzose for my DS23ie BVH (LHD) before reading this - that'll teach me :confused:. I am no auto electrician and could really use some help. I gather that when the new 70A alternator is installed with the 12v out to battery at B+ and the original L on regulator to the D+ lucar on the new alternator, the charge lamp will remain on when the engine starts because of the starter interrupt from the wand earth via the old regulator. To resolve this a new earth must be made for the starter wand but in doing so, the starter interrupt function will no longer work. I want to reinstate that function and would be really glad if you can detail what connections to make for this to happen. The test report accompanying the new alternator having a tachometer/stator output, but don't know which this is on the alternator. A friend from England is visiting next week and he is a talented auto electrician who sees the problem and has some ideas involving a relay, but we would both welcome advice from someone who has done this before. I have the original, fully functioning VR and recall your suggestion using the old regulator as a "post" and wondered if I could go down that road........

Cheers,
John
 
A lot of people have come up with solutions to reinstate the starter interlock and it’s not that easy to do. Personally I didn’t bother, ask yourself how many times you’ve managed to push the gear lever over to start when changing from 1st to 2nd. I suspect the answer is never as it’s quite a deliberate action to engage the starter.

You will have to run a new earth wire from the start switch on the gear selector in either case. You can’t use the lamp wire anymore as the IND terminal or modern alternators isn’t really an earth. Take the brown sleeved wire off the switch, tape it up and run a new earth.
 
Hi all

I believe my alternator requires replacing (on my 1974 Citroen DSpecial).

Is there any step by step guidance for its removal. Apologies for the dumb question, but I am a relative newbie (in terms of working on my D).

I have a replacement alternator with me so thought it would be a good project to try.

Regards Syd
 
That depends on what you currently have installed and what the spare alternator is that you currently have.

Is the replacement exactly the same as what you currently have? If so, then it is easy because it is a direct swop.

If not, then what is your current alternator and voltage regulator and how does the new alternator regulate its voltage output?

So you need to give us some more info Syd.

Cheers, Ken
 
Ken W said:
That depends on what you currently have installed and what the spare alternator is that you currently have.

Is the replacement exactly the same as what you currently have? If so, then it is easy because it is a direct swop.

If not, then what is your current alternator and voltage regulator and how does the new alternator regulate its voltage output?

So you need to give us some more info Syd.

Cheers, Ken
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Hi Ken

Thank you for your message.

I have an exact replacement of the Ducellier 7558B - which is currently fitted to the D. So I am looking at a direct swap.

The D currently has a external voltage regulator which was replaced approximately 3 years ago.

Kind regards
Syd
 
Undo the tensioner bracket at the water pump and alternator, remove and put somewhere safe.

If you reach way down into the engine bay, below the alternator you will find the Y shaped bracket that it sits on. Keep going down and you will find the two 15mm head bolts that hold it onto the block. The front one just needs to be loosened as the bracket is slotted but the rear one must be removed completely. Assmuning you have a carby car, the access isn't to bad. It can be done from the top but if you already have the wing off then you may find it easier to reach in through the side past the battery tray.

The rear bolt is roughly in line with the distributor base
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faulksy said:
Undo the tensioner bracket at the water pump and alternator, remove and put somewhere safe.

If you reach way down into the engine bay, below the alternator you will find the Y shaped bracket that it sits on. Keep going down and you will find the two 15mm head bolts that hold it onto the block. The front one just needs to be loosened as the bracket is slotted but the rear one must be removed completely. Assmuning you have a carby car, the access isn't to bad. It can be done from the top but if you already have the wing off then you may find it easier to reach in through the side past the battery tray.

The rear bolt is roughly in line with the distributor base
View attachment 226948
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Thank you so much Faulksy. It is much appreciated.
Regards
Syd
 
Good point Peter. the B+ wire is connected directly to the positive battery terminal with no fuse. If it hits anything metal there will be a big shower of sparks and a melted wire.
 
faulksy said:
Good point Peter. the B+ wire is connected directly to the positive battery terminal with no fuse. If it hits anything metal there will be a big shower of sparks and a melted wire.
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Don’t ask me how I know. 😵‍💫
 
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