Andy,
mate, wait till next summer .... There's no denying it, CX's are an excrutiatingly hot car in summer. There's a lot of time devoted to this on the forums simply due to the fact it basically prevents them being a daily used car in hot conditions (especially in heavy traffic where heat soak will set into the floor, firewall, not to mention ventilation). Have you noticed the heater can't be turned off in summer yet.
My series II CX gets nowhere near as hot in summer, the heat soak through the floor and firewall isn't anywhere near as bad as the old CX C-matic ... It's still BLOODY HOT sitting under the windscreen though. Possibly the only reason it stays cooler is the turbo unit itself is absorbing a lot of the exhaust heat before it reaches the cars underbody. The ventilation doesn't blow hot on a warm day (no doubt you have found you can't turn the heater off on a hot day by now... That's not the heater, it's the ambiant air being heated by the floor/firewall/ducting on the way in). The Series II ventilation though not warm is simply terrible. The fan switch is more like a 'volume' switch (ie: the fan makes lots more noise but doesn't really move more air).
Chris Stewert over in Perth I think will eventually solve the heat issue. Though it's not going to be a simple fix. He's using a very methodical process to eliminate and measure the heat ingress. He even used a garden blower strapped to the intake tower to see if that would increase the air flow through the vents in the car. Even though the air was moving at cyclonic speeds into the bonnet vent, the air inside the car was no greater than having the fans on high.
He's wrapped the exhaust with high temperature bandage. He found this worked for about 20minutes until the heat bandage soaked up lots of heat, then it heated the cars interior and continued to (as it stored heat) for a considerable time after you have stopped.
Seriously join the CX-L list on the yahoogroups server, he's been posting his progress there on trying to stop the heat transfer. I have no doubts he'll will get it right (he's taking the right approach to it, methodical changes everywhere followed by testing of the changes). When he finishes I'll most likley copy what he's done.
My CX doesn't even have air-con fitted, however until I can keep the inside of the car at ambiant temperature it's pointless even attempting to fit it.
Rear spheres are simple to remove (weren't yours just regassed). It's just time consuming as you need to whip the rear suspension cylinders out (take a back wheel off and look where they are. You'll soon see what's involved in taking them off).
seeya,
Shane L.
mate, wait till next summer .... There's no denying it, CX's are an excrutiatingly hot car in summer. There's a lot of time devoted to this on the forums simply due to the fact it basically prevents them being a daily used car in hot conditions (especially in heavy traffic where heat soak will set into the floor, firewall, not to mention ventilation). Have you noticed the heater can't be turned off in summer yet.
My series II CX gets nowhere near as hot in summer, the heat soak through the floor and firewall isn't anywhere near as bad as the old CX C-matic ... It's still BLOODY HOT sitting under the windscreen though. Possibly the only reason it stays cooler is the turbo unit itself is absorbing a lot of the exhaust heat before it reaches the cars underbody. The ventilation doesn't blow hot on a warm day (no doubt you have found you can't turn the heater off on a hot day by now... That's not the heater, it's the ambiant air being heated by the floor/firewall/ducting on the way in). The Series II ventilation though not warm is simply terrible. The fan switch is more like a 'volume' switch (ie: the fan makes lots more noise but doesn't really move more air).
Chris Stewert over in Perth I think will eventually solve the heat issue. Though it's not going to be a simple fix. He's using a very methodical process to eliminate and measure the heat ingress. He even used a garden blower strapped to the intake tower to see if that would increase the air flow through the vents in the car. Even though the air was moving at cyclonic speeds into the bonnet vent, the air inside the car was no greater than having the fans on high.
He's wrapped the exhaust with high temperature bandage. He found this worked for about 20minutes until the heat bandage soaked up lots of heat, then it heated the cars interior and continued to (as it stored heat) for a considerable time after you have stopped.
Seriously join the CX-L list on the yahoogroups server, he's been posting his progress there on trying to stop the heat transfer. I have no doubts he'll will get it right (he's taking the right approach to it, methodical changes everywhere followed by testing of the changes). When he finishes I'll most likley copy what he's done.
My CX doesn't even have air-con fitted, however until I can keep the inside of the car at ambiant temperature it's pointless even attempting to fit it.
Rear spheres are simple to remove (weren't yours just regassed). It's just time consuming as you need to whip the rear suspension cylinders out (take a back wheel off and look where they are. You'll soon see what's involved in taking them off).
seeya,
Shane L.
