Help with DS Fuel Lines

The rilsan tube goes all the way to the bottom of the filter stack. Ingenious: the way they cut the end of the rilsan and made it touch the bottom.

Doing the Daffy Duck dance with the AussieFrogs app and a cane.
 
daffyduck said:
The rilsan tube goes all the way to the bottom of the filter stack. Ingenious: the way they cut the end of the rilsan and made it touch the bottom.

Doing the Daffy Duck dance with the AussieFrogs app and a cane.
Click to expand...

Stop dancing and tell us, does the rislan tube go all the way to the top of the tank, we know it reaches the bottom of the tank?

Cheers
Chris
 
it runs continously through the pick up pipe from the filter to the pump hose along the front torsion bar strut on the chassis!
 
forumnoreason said:
it runs continously through the pick up pipe from the filter to the pump hose along the front torsion bar strut on the chassis!
Click to expand...

Thanks Steven,
So one continuous section!! That makes it a serious job to remove and replace, I guess it must have been quite supple 40 years ago? Not something to be messed with unless absolutely necessary!! :eek:

So, where it exits the tank there should be a rubber tube over the rislan and onto the metal tube? Makes Don's tape repair his only option without withdrawing the rislan tube from the tank - have to wish him good luck with that :cry:

Cheers
Chris
 
Not such a problem!

My DS had a similar challenge. The section of Rislan in the tank had been lopped off to remove the tank before I bought it.

I cut the Rislan near the front door and used the rear section to push into the fuel tank, having first fitted a new rubber sleeve to seal between tube and fuel tank conduit. Cut the bottom end at an angle and push all the way to the bottom of the tank. The in-tank filter is optional but probably best discarded and replaced with an in line filter near the fuel pump.

The missing section of Rislan in the sill can be replaced with a section of flexible modern fuel line.
 
that is exactly what I did on mine Michael, glad to hear it works. I think I cut or broke the Rilsan off trying to free the joining hose off the tank! can't remember cough. The main thing is the rilsan is sitting with a 45 angle cut at the bottom of the filter. As has been pointed out throughout this neverending thread! I asked a bloke here who is almost seventy to push the hose onto the tank fuel tube because I just couldn't get it to go the whole way, he is slightly very strong, plumber, was a bouncer in the Cross back in the day!

Territory Tough!
 
So, the fuel.
The decanter filter work beautifully, I get no more rust at the pump.
Yesterday the carb filter was full of petrol, no air. This morning, same.
I went to the warehouse (25 km. round trip) to play with Insanity (Sophie's electricals).
Pushed the car a bit, 145 kph on the speedo, just over 130 in reality. Not a hiccup.

At the warehouse, I checked the filter. Empty, with bubbles when running. Tank was about half-full by then (on the gauge).
Petrol station, put some 25 liters in. Checked the filter there and then, bubbles.
Drove home, pretty fast, no glitches. Got home, checked the filter, empty, bubbles.

So
1) The decanter filter in the boot is probably a good solution, for the rust anyway. Lots of rust on the bottom, none at the carb.
2) Putting a magnet in it is useless, the rust doesn't stick to it.
3) Where the air is coming from remains a mystery, as filling the tank does not seem to fix it.
4) Bubbles notwithstanding, the car is finally running good again and I'm enjoying it rather than feeling anxious about it stopping in wrong places.
 
Ok, so I went down to take a picture of the boot filter to show it had no air in it.
And I could swear that last time I looked (before I put gas in the tank this morning) it didn't.

Now, well...

airfilt_zpspadszeel.jpg


I'll keep investigating and will let ya'll know.
There is no smell of petrol at anytime anywhere though.
 
petrol vapourises doesn't it? I don't think having a rusting tank is a very satisfactory situation really. Worth spending some money on to solve? New or renewed would eliminate having a filter you need to check every half an hour...
 
So I went to investigate a little and guess what?
After a few hours' rest, the carb filter fills up immediately, no bubbles, and the boot filter has no air in it.
She's just taking the piss.
 
misterd said:
Hi all and thanks for your advice...
Maybe I should have been more specific, there's plenty of nylon hose out there I could use but I need the outer dimension so I can feed it down into the fuel tank and replace this piece only because it has deteriorated.
Not looking to replace all the lines, just this piece.
Any thoughts please?
Thanks,
Robes
Click to expand...
I have just done mine. I found piece of fuel line at Super Cheap that fitted over the metal pipe of the tank outlet. I had removed the existing outer sheath with a sharp knife. I cut the inner output pipe so I could insert the sheath over the outlet pipe. I put hoses clamps around the metal outlet end and around the outlet pipe end. This left a piece of outlet pipe that I could attach a new peice of the larger pipe to in order to negotiate around the holes in the side section. This was connected to the existing pipe that ran up to the front. I found I could not remove the internal filter nut so I ground out the brass "nut" and removed the filter that way. I blanked off the brass nut area so now the outlet pickup just rests on the bottom of the tank without a filter. The filter was blocked and this is what prompted the exercise. I have installed a generic inline filter before the fuel pump. Now the motor starts immediately after sitting for a while as the fuel flows quickly from the tank to the pump. Previously the flow was so bad it was easier to prime the motor with some fuel straight down the carby than crank forever to get the fuel up to the carby
 
Does your carby have a threaded and barbed inlet fitting? If not, you want to perform that upgrade.
 
It's a Weber.
I presume the inlet pipe is press fit.
I have never had one fall out but there is always a first time.
Ford Cortinas in the late 70s would do it and catch fire.
 
Yes, Weber is the suspect one that loses the inlet tube and burns. At the very least add a wire around the hose clamp to retain it.
 
Rob - I realise I'm coming to this very late but did you get a solution for the fuel starvation problem on you car? My DSuper draws fuel back down the line when parked - even for a few minutes. It doesn't start and I can see the in line filter is empty and needs to be primed. So far I've installed new a rilsan tube into the tank and remade the connection in the side member/caisson. Installed a new fuel tank breather assembly from Citroen Classics. Checked that the fuel flows to the junction on the crossmember in the engine bay (it does - I have a petrol soaked sleeve to show for it!). Renewed the rubber pipes to the fuel pump and on to the carb. The car drives fine sometimes and cuts out with fuel starvation other times. The inline fuel filter sometimes picks up a little rust. There is currently no filter in the tank (will install when it arrives later in the month). I have a rubber bulb in the engine bay to re-prime when the issue occurs. Does anyone have advice for me on this please?
 
It's probably the fuel pump. The mechanical pump is meant to hold a slight pressure to the carby and if it can't do that, then you'd suspect the pump is failing given the fuel runs back so quickly.
 
Thanks David - an electric fuel pump arriving today which I’ll swap out for a new mechanical pump if it solves the issue.
 
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