- Nov 16, 2010
Did you measure the backlash before disassembly?Hi David. I'll check the dimensions of the gear first chance.
I'm trying to make the minimum of changes to avoid having to reset the crown wheel back lash. If I don't change the bearing or any of the gears it all should be the same settings and the existing shim (2) should suffice.
I'll measure the base diameter of the cone on the gear, however, and if it's less than the spare gear I have I'll bite that particular bullet and use it. I'm hoping that since the spare ring I have results in a clearance of about 20+ thou whereas the one that's in there has close to zero thou I can simply replace that and move on.
As a comparison I'll measure the cone to ring clearances of the other gears, which are synchronising fine, and see how it looks.
The 3rd gear is 32 teeth and the overall diameter is 80.89mm, gear width 14.25mm.. The diameter of the cone part at the root, ie, the base of the cone, is 49.04mm.
Excellent, its the synchro that has worn. I reckon its the gear that wears more in CX's than the synchro. So it gets to the point where new synchros make little to no difference as the gear itself is wornOK, here's the definitive info on synchro rings I've found.
First of all, the 3rd gear ring was sitting flush with the surface on the gear. An undesirable situation.
The ring is quite worn inside resulting in zero clearance.
A "good" ring on the original gear sits proud by around 30 thou, so will(should) provide "synchronising friction" when asked to do so.
The photo of worn and good rings together is pretty telling I reckon.
So, once I make a special tool to hold the retarding dowels while I put the 3rd gear back on, I can proceed to re-assemble with a degree of confidence that the gears will work proper like.
A quick check of the other clearances shows them to be between 20 and 30 thou. None of them are as worn as the 3rd gear one, which is encouraging.
These pics should tell the story I reckon.
Onwards and Upwards Folks! Pottsy.
Yeah, I posted that same pic from 810-2 in posts 63 and 74. GiSelle has type B, the right hand one with the (presumably) pressed collar. If it was the left hand one held on by a nut I'd have it sorted by now. (The 2CV uses a type A design flange with the assembly held on by a nut.)Pottsy,
I presume you are following the factory manual here? There might be a thread involved holding the collar on.
Cheers, Ken View attachment 135714