DS 21 monogram placement

I'd be inclined to grind off the pins and stick new badges directly to the paint if the boot isn't already drilled. Repro 'gold' may be shiny brass plating.

Which leads to my next question... instead of drilling holes in the boot lid, how about grinding off the pins and sticking them on? If I change my mind down the track I can always remove them. Here is what I have... thick enough lettering to apply double sticky and cut with a sharp blade. Then as discussed I can place them intuitively by site.

WYUuT00.jpg
 
Leave it off. If a pair of gold chevrons on the bootlid was all a DS19 needed to identify itself, why does a later D need anything more?

To me, one of the great attributes of a DS is that it is self-evidently a DS: nothing else looks like it or could be mistaken for it. It does not need to identify itself and anyone who needs to have it identified for them does not deserve to know what it is.

Roger

Yes, I get that... I like the incognito look also. But as I’m going the whole hog with the upgrades to François I decided it should be all as opposed to partly.
 
With care! Trial fit with Blu-Tak and secure with a Sikaflex bonding urethane perhaps? Double-sided tape isn't always very reliable. Sikaflex will be stronger and any excess can be wiped off with White Spirit.
 
Which leads to my next question... instead of drilling holes in the boot lid, how about grinding off the pins and sticking them on? If I change my mind down the track I can always remove them. Here is what I have... thick enough lettering to apply double sticky and cut with a sharp blade. Then as discussed I can place them intuitively by site.

WYUuT00.jpg

Hi Matthew,
Personally I'd drill the holes - I think it will be impossible to do a neat enough job with sealant and tape, and with tape they will sit prouder that the original way. The NOS badges are not that easy to come by - I'd hesitate to attack them with a grinder.
If you want me to send a template I can - however it would be best for you to make the template yourself as they you have confidence as to how it needs to fit.
Kind regards,
Mark :)
 
The original monograms had plastic sleeves over each of the pins. These little 'hats' sat in a recess on the back of the monogram so that it sat flush to the boot lid. When gripped in place, these plastic sleeves helped to provide a water tight seal. The point i'm making here is that the holes in the boot were made big enough for pin and sleeve. If you make the holes in the boot the same size as the originals but fit the repros without plastic sleeves, they will have 'wiggle room' and may not look straight.
 
Draw a line across through the boot button and down a fraction and you should be in the correct place. This is the placement for a 1970 21 (pictured around 2005) that was original and unmolested before being painted some years ago, so it would retain the original bootlid.
View attachment 114231
It lives on display at Punchbowl. If you can't find another example to look at, you might be able to take measurements or a template from it if you ask.

Looking at the parts list, there was a change in the boot badging part numbers from 9/68. Looking at some photos I have of 1966 vs 1970 21s that most likely still have their original boot lids, the script is not quite the same. Is it possible the repro item is an earlier type? Does 1966 (non-Pallas) possibly want to be on the left and a little further up with a diagonal Citroen script on the right????

This has all suddenly got very serious........
 
Leave it off. If a pair of gold chevrons on the bootlid was all a DS19 needed to identify itself, why does a later D need anything more?

To me, one of the great attributes of a DS is that it is self-evidently a DS: nothing else looks like it or could be mistaken for it. It does not need to identify itself and anyone who needs to have it identified for them does not deserve to know what it is.

Roger

Self-evidently a DS? So why would it even need chevrons Roger?
 
This has all suddenly got very serious........

One of Parkinson's laws at work yet again.
(Thinking here of the board meeting considering a nuclear reactor and a bike shed.)
 
Matthew,
Quiet word, follow Mark's lead and you can't go wrong - nods as good as wink to a blind man - say no more shhhh. . . :wink2: :whistle:

Cheers
Chris
 
Additionally, what’s the best method for attaching those circular clips to the pins? I fitted the current chevrons on “FrankenD” back in the day and they were difficult to push home so the badge didn’t wobble.
 
Matthew,
Quiet word, follow Mark's lead and you can't go wrong - nods as good as wink to a blind man - say no more shhhh. . . :wink2: :whistle:

Cheers
Chris

Then Matthew, if you want to go that route, do yourself a favour, and before you drill the holes into the boot, experiment and make sure your new badge fits properly into the magic template. Just in case....
 
The original monograms had plastic sleeves over each of the pins. These little 'hats' sat in a recess on the back of the monogram so that it sat flush to the boot lid. When gripped in place, these plastic sleeves helped to provide a water tight seal. The point i'm making here is that the holes in the boot were made big enough for pin and sleeve. If you make the holes in the boot the same size as the originals but fit the repros without plastic sleeves, they will have 'wiggle room' and may not look straight.

Hi Budge,
There is great advantage to this (the larger holes) in fitting the badges without the sleeves - the wiggle room allows you to twist and move the letters slightly to ensure they align. I just used the smallest dab of sikaflex around each pin when fitted to water seal them.
I gently pin punched each hole and used a fine drill bit then the correct size to ensure accuracy.
Kind regards,
Mark :)
 
There is a mob in SA (their name escapes me at the moment) who specialise in this kind of work.
They did a superb job on my badges

Might be A-Class Finishers in Adelaide - they did my bezels on the D Super and did a fantastic job.
 
The first piece of the puzzle has arrived... these are going straight on. ��

okEDpIe.jpg
 
Nice!

I like parts with a D prefix: it means they never changed from the original design.

And they are all you need on a DS. Only people who know what they mean will know what they mean. Those who don't know don't matter. The "self-evident" paradox.

Roger
 
Sounds rather like Mr Squiggle - the musician, not the space traveller.
Self-evident or not?
 
Nice!

I like parts with a D prefix: it means they never changed from the original design.

And they are all you need on a DS. Only people who know what they mean will know what they mean. Those who don't know don't matter. The "self-evident" paradox.

Roger

My thoughts exactly. So why do some , even here, call them ID's???
 
Oh yes.... we like that. The clips provided with it were easy to put on too... with the plastic inserts.

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I wish my car was worthy of d'or chevrons. Or basically I wish I had a late sixties 21 BVH to be more precise. Leather interior with slopey dash mmmm.
 
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