Does anyones T7 HDi 2.0 radiator fan sometimes stay on after ignition is off?

The view from under will see the water dripping over the transmission. It isn't good, but is easy, and gives a better idea of where from. If unlucky it will have dried up.

You may not see the exact source as the cross member is in your way. A mirror will be needed. Pressure won't go up until the thermostat opens and it gets hot, ie working temperature. This problem comes up from time to time. It's more likely with newer petrols.
 
@seasink

I removed under engine cover but as you said could not see the source the leak. I then removed air filter cover (not battery) and could see water drippling from the thermostat housing. I have higlighed in yellow on the image below where the water is leaking from. Its the flange between the housing and the housing pipe that goes to the upper radiator pipe.

thermostat housing.JPG


In this video below you can seee the water leaking. At idle it wasn't obvious but at 1500-2000rpm it was. You'll see it dribbling down below the flange and if you look closely its running in the flange slot

https://streamable.com/jfkrvf or https://ufile.io/u7wv02cd

FYI a 20 min drive (10 min return) results in the loss of approx 0.5 to 1 L of coolant

Questions

1. Is that the thermostat flange join a known area where these thermostats fail and leak from?
2. Could this failure be the cause of the prior new fan activation and occasional raising of temperture above 90c. I am assuming this leak is the previous fan and temperture issue now resulting in the leak?
3. Presumably I should get a new OEM housing rather than a 2nd hand one?
 
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I've reached to many NZ suppliers so it will be interesting to see if any have it for cost to the AU$100 aaautoparts do

I didn't take the Thermostat housing out so maybe it does have a crack underneath that flange join where my leak is occuring?

Question: An relative over from AU today suggested trying a coolant stop leak product he said he has a really good results with those for repairs that lasts years. What are your thoughts on trying that as a low cost alternative to a mechanic replacing that housing? (1hr job including drain, flush and refill the system?)

A downside might be if it fixes the leak but makesit harder for a mechanic confirming the problem?
 
I wouldn't put one of those products (Bars Leaks, etc) in this engine. You'll be able to see the exact source when the battery is out, and that alone makes it worth a new housing with a new seal.
 
Also in Aus try EAI. You may find a courier goes to New Zealand if you can't find a local. The Estonian suppliers have a range of them (many after market makers) for 40 to 60 Euros, plus air delivery.
 
@seasink thank you for the very helpful replies.

AA came back at $110 and can ship to NZ so I've asked for a delivery time

I'm curious as to why you suggested not using one of those stop leak products in a RHR engine? I ask as we're a one car family so was thinking a leak product would get us through until the repair can be effected (at best Tues)

In the pic below is what I have circled in red the Temperture sensor?
Note the white water marks around the identified leak area on the housing join (circled in yellow)
NB: It appears where the leak is there is a join yet the replacement housing is one part, I wonder why the part has that join and is not one piece?

image_2024-01-06_040044081.png
 
The stop leaks products are full of proprietary undisclosed substances ("Rhizex" anyone, ginger compound, etc) that goo up openings when exposed to air. They were popular with simple old engines that basically are a hollow block and head connected to a radiator via a pump. If it clumped somewhere it didn't matter much.

The modern diesel has some small systems you don't want solid stuff in, like the turbo, oil, and transmission coolers. There is even an EGR cooler. I would be reluctant to use goo, when you can actually get at the leaking component.
 
@seasink

Thank you for the explaination on why not to use stop leak products on a HDi :)

I see a couple of gaskets are required when replacing the thermostat housing, can I assume a garage will do that or should I ask?

1704449944174.png


Also if a sensor is inexpensive should I get the replaced at the same time whilst the housing is out?
NB: In my pic was that red circle the sensor, I think not as ServiceBox says its beind the housing?
 
Check if the gasket comes with the housing. They often do when replacement is compulsory. The sensor is up to you. I can get the battery out in minutes rather than hours, so I am not fazed by screwing in a sensor if needed.

If you are using a garage, does the mechanic know the battery removal procedure (including the nut at the front)? If he does Peugeots often he should. That would save expensive time while he puzzles it out. It can be done quickly.

Also - when removing the battery keep away after disconnection for several minutes. Use the time to extract the battery. Don't touch a door, let alone get in, until the computers are fully shut down. The same goes for reconnection. The computers need time to boot and set themselves before sensor information comes in. If you don't do this mystery goings on await you.
 
@seasink EAI don't ship to NZ :(

Can you confirm the Thermostat housing part number as I have 9656182930 for the RHR engine but the local Peugeot dealer said its not that (and refused to provide what the number is), I called as I was curious as to what their cost could be
 
He guessed you are shopping him.

Is this it?
alvadi.ee

Search results 1336 Y9 - alvadi.ee

alvadi.ee alvadi.ee

AA Autoparts will know for sure.

The very dear Green items at the bottom of the linked page are Peugeot prices from unspecified Europeans.
 
@seasink thank you for the reply
'
yes d(s)ealerships like psa part numbers lol

Where can I find the coolant specification so I ensure the garage use a compatible coolant for my RHR?

I have an almost empty 1L bottle of (blue) 9735 K4 from a dealership but surely there are compatible ones from Penrite etc
 
The Peugeot coolant is an organic acid technology product. Peugeot does not disclose the European maker, but I suspect BASF G33. It is designed for long life and is blue initially, though it discolours in the engine over time. I wouldn't mix it with another type. The spec is PSA - B71 5110 if you can find a match.

There are other blue coloured long lifes out there, so what you use is up to you. Penrite OEM Blue is supposed to contain Glysantin G30, which is a BASF product. You aren't topping up, unless you are going to only partly drain.

I just go to a dealer and get a large container.

BTW, I noticed that Alvadi has a New Zealand URL - https://alvadi.nz. The parts still have to be sent there though.
 
FYI issue resolved, thermostat replaced Thurs gone with an OEM Meyle one that came with new gaskets and sensor, the coolant used was a BMW blue one so far no leaks, or elevated temp gauge readings or previously described radiator fan engagement

@seasink a sincere thank you for your responses and help
 
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