Does anyones T7 HDi 2.0 radiator fan sometimes stay on after ignition is off?

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xlink_nz

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Fellow Frogger
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This has only started occuring at 230K kms on the clock, previously this never occured

It usually stays on 3-6 mins

No scan codes either, is this normal or a symptom of something else?

I cannot understand why this has only started occurring after 15 years
 
If you owned a petrol engine I'd suggest you changed the spark plugs as a first try. It can relate to firing.

No it is a symptom. How old is the battery?
 
@seasink thank you for the reply

The battery was replaced August last year, why do you think the battery could have been an issue?

When it was checked last week, there were no scan codes and so far no dash alerts on temperture or coolant have come up

I do wonder if it is an intermittant fan relay or maybe temperture sensor?

NB: The only maintenance item overdue by 10K kms is to replace the air filter, surely that is not a cause?
 
I have personally seen this cured in a petrol Citroen simply by fitting new plugs, which shows that the ECU was ordering the fans as a result of sensor information (lambda?).

I don't have that experience with a plug-free HDI engine, but odd computer behaviour more often than not relates to under-voltage. Your air filter would have to be filthy and blocked to change combustion.
 
Wouldn't this be the engine cooling system thinking it's hotter than it really is, and requesting the fans run to cool the engine ?

I had thought this was a normal process, however it's not normal to have the fans running 6 mins after turning off the engine. A faulty sensor detecting an (spurious) over-temp condition switching the fans on ?

Cheers

Justin
 
@N5GTi6 thank you too for your reply.

Many articles say that the the radiator fan staying on for a few minutes after is normal for some many brands. This appears to be to allow the engine to engine to cool without the cooling system in operation?

What I am particularly keen to understand is whether this occurs with others that have a T7 308 HDi
 
Modern Cit and Peugeot fans do run on for a short while after ignition is turned off if the coolant is sufficiently hot after a run. Turbos in particular appreciate it. It is only if it just keeps on and on you have a fault.
 
xlink_nz said:
thank you too for your reply.

Many articles say that the the radiator fan staying on for a few minutes after is normal for some many brands. This appears to be to allow the engine to engine to cool without the cooling system in operation?

What I am particularly keen to understand is whether this occurs with others that have a T7 308 HDi
Click to expand...
You said yourself it's only just started happening to your car. So if it was't happening before something has changed.

This is the reason I suggested you might have a faulty sensor. I've had 2 X T7 HDi's and this was never an issue with either of them.

I'm not sure why other cars would also change like that @ 230K km's.

Cheers

Justin
 
Some updates

  1. I found in the handbook here that the fan can stay on after the engine is off and that this can occur with vehicles with a DPF even from cold
  2. I spoke with a very helpful senior technician at a dealership, he advised that the fan has two speeds high and low, he has seen an issue where the fan relay(?) fails on low speed meaning the fan only operates in high speed (as a backup). If this is the case it would explain why we have not noticed previously as he said the fan on low is not really noticeable. As he is out of town he requested I send him an audio file and he can confirm whether the sound is it operating on high or low. The sound file is here this is the sound recorded on my phone with it held in front of the head light with the engine off.

Let me know if you know how to tell whether the radiator is running at high or low speed. He said high speed is very loud and like a roar
 
Thank you for the replies

Am I right in that the temperature sensor (as indicated by service box) is behind the coolant outlet housing. It appears no small or easy job to access as Servicebox says its 1.4hr labour to replace) and I could not see it

To drain the radiator does the bleed screw (as indicated by ServiceBox) require to be opened. I ask as it appears this screw is (like the temperature sensor not easily accessible) as it appears to be half way to the heater matrix and to access requires removing the passenger side panels below the glove box?. Can I simply remove the lower radiator hose?
 
My understanding is that the 308 T7 ran from 2008 to 2013. That spans the range of two 2.0 HDI engines. The first is coded as RHR (for the DW10B) and the later more powerful one is RHH (for the DW10C).

Could you post letters 6-7-8 of the VIN? These form the engine code. It will tell us the details.

Generally speaking draining for your purpose only needs the radiator hose disconnected, but the other places are significant for refilling and bleeding.
 
Here it is for an RHR engine--
1. Remove the air cleaner and battery. The battery is the time consumer.
2. The water box is exposed. The temperature sensor is item 3.
st1.jpg
st2.jpg
 
hi @seasink thank you for that, a new symptom the car appears to be leaking coolant/water on the passenger side (small puddle on garage floor after parking), today I had to top up the coolant tank 1 litre of water, tomorrow I plan to put on ramps remove the undercover and see if I can see where it is leaking

Any tips of what and where to look for, presumably when I look I should have the car idling?
 
Is it an RHR?

In either case, before you start it get a torch and see where it comes from. You often can, particularly if some of the air feed comes off. Then try with it under pressure. Odds on it's the water box. Other possibilities are the tube to the water pump down at the driver's side and one of the hoses. All are in that area.
 
hi @seasink yes its an RHR

From cold I may not see any water leak?
What is the waterbox, the thermostat housing?
When you say under pressure you mean at idle or revved?
 
It's a plastic affair with internal pathways and with spigots all over it. It is the junction for all the radiator hoses, the heater hoses, the end of the head and the tube to the water pump. The thermostat and temperature sensor are built in too. The sensor and any of the hose ends are possibles, as is a crack in the plastic.

Coolant is pumped into the engine, exiting hot from the head where this gadget controls hot flow to the radiator and heater, and also collects the cooled return lines from both to feed the pump which is down near the crank pulley..

You should see wet spots after that overnight stay if it's leaking from there. Pressure only needs the pump to run and open the thermostat; no need to be silly. Running won't be on if you have removed all that stuff in the way.

They cost about A$100 or so from outlets here. You can see the thermostat in this view, at the head exit.

water housing.png
 
hi @seasink I've had the air filter housing open before so no issue (to replace the filter) with that (if its just the top that needs to come off) but I've never removed the battery before, is that difficult and does the battery housing require to be removed too?

My plan was to keep to start simple and put the car ramps first, remove the under engine cover and have a look, hopefully that allows me to initially see where the leak is before I attempt removal of battery and air cleaner?

Thoughts?
 
Removal of the battery in these cars is a pain. Keep it until last. A mirror and a good torch will help greatly in the search.

Pugrambo had a thread about battery removal recently. A clumsy bloke does it for your engine it in this YT, but you may find a better 308 one. At least he knows what has to be disconnected. (I think you have maxi-fuses over the battery in HDI 308s).
 
You're right battery removal does not appear easy!

Do you think from underneath I'll be able to get a good or better view on where the leak could be from?

Once viewing underneath do you think the car running on idle will generate the leak if not obvious?

NB: Until my preferred repairer is back Mon do you think driving short distances (we have one car) until next week would exacerabte the issue? (I'll carry around a couple of litres of water as it used 1L today)
 
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