cx c-matic gearbox

[Rob B]

Looking under the bonnet of the cx I can only find a dipstick for the engine oil. Do these things have a dipstick for the auto and if they do where is it ?

 

[Alan S]

Take out the spare wheel and shine a spotlight down behind the front crossmember. Feel and look around the top of the transmission directly behind the crossmember and you'll find a loop which is the grip for the dipstick.
Once you find it, then comes the tricky bit; do you know how to check the oil level?
Unlike an engine, it's more than just pull it out and see where it is on the dipstick in case you are not aware.


Alan S

 

[DoubleChevron]

Access is easy .... see below

Of course, access isn't so easy with the motor in the car ... 4spders and C-matics are easier as the daravi/speedo splitter isn't in the way (or the ABS unit).

To check the oil you need the car on a level surface then engine/disengage a gear 12times. Then quickly jump out and whip the dipstick out.

If you having problems with the C-matic slipping and being hard to get into gear, no doubt someone has put dexron III in there ... The C-matic HATES dexron III (most Citroen gearboxs seem too). Castrol TQF (Alan ??) is the stuff these box's like.

good luck
Shane L.

 

[Alan S]

Yep, TQF is the go. If I can get the old archives restored (ya listening Gerry??) I can post you a link on how to make a funnel device to use to refil the transmission via that dipstick hole.

BTW, you can see the dipstick just below the oil filter in the pic.


Alan S

 

[DoubleChevron]

Yep, TQF is the go. If I can get the old archives restored (ya listening Gerry??) I can post you a link on how to make a funnel device to use to refil the transmission via that dipstick hole.

BTW, you can see the dipstick just below the oil filter in the pic.


Alan S

Now there's an interesting point ... Why on earth didn't I paint that dipstick bright orange when the motor was out ... Most certainly it'd make it easy to see when hidden down there :disappr:

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[Rob B]

Now there's an interesting point ... Why on earth didn't I paint that dipstick bright orange when the motor was out ... Most certainly it'd make it easy to see when hidden down there :disappr:

seeya,
Shane L.

Thanks guys , I found the dip stick now. Knowing where to look is a bonus. About that putting it into gear 12 times is a problem on account of it won't go into gear in the first place. Seems to be some oil on the dip stick anyway. I might try dropping the oil and put some castrol TQF. Note that this will be a long term project and I am only trying to get the car into the back yard and off the street for the moment

 

[DoubleChevron]

Thanks guys , I found the dip stick now. Knowing where to look is a bonus. About that putting it into gear 12 times is a problem on account of it won't go into gear in the first place. Seems to be some oil on the dip stick anyway. I might try dropping the oil and put some castrol TQF. Note that this will be a long term project and I am only trying to get the car into the back yard and off the street for the moment

It's a wiring/electro-valve problem... Pull the wire off the top of the gearbox and earth it (this is the gearbox switch wire, not the reversing switch). this should allow you to start the car when it's in gear, do NOT try to change gears once it's running, without the electro-valve circuit working you basically have a car with a broken clutch cable. If you need to go backwards, switch off, select reverse, re-start.

Here's the details that should get you mobile here:

http://www.aussiefrogs.com/shane .... look under 'CX2400 C-matic'. I was given a C-matic that exactly the same issues you describe.

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[Alan S]

Rob,

When the time comes for the fluid change, this is the set up I made to do mine when I had CXs.

http://www.aussiefrogs.com/snippets/oilfunnel.htm

Works a treat. Just pull the transmission dipstick out and fill or top up through that hole. No chance of crap getting into it and as a guide, when you do a change, drain into a clean container and then check the amount. Replace the equivalent amount. The reason being that torque converters hold a fair amount of fluid and they never fully drain. If you take out say 2.5 litres and replace 2.5, you can then start and do as Shane says, then check the level and top up if necessary.
Another option to start, and it's a dangerous way, I'm the first to admit, but can be done with great care, is to get someone in the car. In first gear, handbrake on and foot on the brake. Turn the key to "on" and get an asistant to seperate the torpedo connection from the starter motor near the battery. Strike the male portion onto the + terminal on the battery, get them to lower the bonnet and when everybody's clear, release the handbrake and hit the accelerator and just drive it into the yard in first gear.
I would start and warm up the engine in Neutral before beginning this operation so the hydraulic system has pressure in it to operate the brakes effectively.
I've done this often with no dramas, apart from when I tried to do it solo and got knocked off my feet due to the handbrake not holding and me forgetting the choke was still out. but taken carefully and step at a time, it will take you 30 seconds to start and shift it.


Alan S

 

[graham66]

For topping up the c-matic I found it easier to just whip of the pipe to the oil cooler and squirt TQF through it - easy to reach, but downside it tended to overfill.

 

[Rob B]

For topping up the c-matic I found it easier to just whip of the pipe to the oil cooler and squirt TQF through it - easy to reach, but downside it tended to overfill.

thanks for the info guys. Had another go at starting the beast this morning. Finally started after squirting some fuel down it's throat. Heres the good news. After letting her warm up for 5 minutes I tried to engage 2nd gear cause I thought maybe 1st would be too harsh, and I got it in. Joy of joys. Put it in and out a few times and got a great feeling, you know the type. Decided to be adventurous and put it in 1st. She grumbled a bit but finally accepted it. In and out, in and out, I felt pretty good, so I took her around the back (yard) What were you thinking? Everything seems to be okay, pumps up, electric windows work, wipers work, she drives like shes been unwanted for some time but I think a little TLC should bring her around to my way of thinking.

Thanks again guys

Rob

 

[Alan S]

For topping up the c-matic I found it easier to just whip of the pipe to the oil cooler and squirt TQF through it - easy to reach, but downside it tended to overfill.

Are you talking CX or GS? Coz, if you're talking CX you've found one that's obviously easier than any I've ever been able to get off. Most of the ones I've ever struck needed the hose cutting off and replacing.

Rob,

Good to hear you've got it shifted, now best you go buy the TQF and see if it makes a difference.



Alan S

 

[graham66]

GS Alan - I have GSs. Hoses pretty easy to remove... Way better than undoing hard to reach filler plugs on gearbox casing.

 

[Alan S]

GS Alan - I have GSs. Hoses pretty easy to remove... Way better than undoing hard to reach filler plugs on gearbox casing.

I thought so; on the CX if my memory serves me correctly, you need to remove the radiator to get access to the trans. cooler hoses at the cooler end.
The bottle with the flexy hose takes around 1 minute flat to fill the transmission and no tools needed as it goes straight into the hole the dipstick fits into.


Alan S

 

[chris]

I must get me a drive of one of these C-matic things one day soon. My car was one originally, I believe. Every time I sit in traffic I wish it still was.... something to think about, long-term :wink2:

Chris

 

[graham66]

Yeah they're great Chrs, a breeze in bumper to bumper traffic. Mine's still off the road unfortunately - had all that drama with the control valve (which George 1/8th fixed brilliantly) but now it's leaking TQF through the diff seals.

One day I'll make 1 good GS (out of 4) - and it will definitely be a c-matic.