C5 X7 weak aircon flow
- Thread starter aranciata-oz
- Start date
Many thanks @Ken W - I've ordered the part. Hopefully it resolves my issue! I'll keep everyone posted ...Yes this is the electronic heater controller for your car. I bought one from this ebay seller a month or so ago as he was making some claims about quality and offered a 12 month warranty and the controller he sent did work OK. There have been other who bought cheapie ebay clinese controllers that havn't worked when delivered.
HEATER BLOWER MOTOR FAN RESISTOR FOR PEUGEOT 307 407 Citroen C3 C4 C5 C6 6441.S7 | eBay
OEM PART NUMBER: 6441S7, 6441. Easy to install, fit for PEUGEOT 307 407 Citroen C3 C4 C5 C6. 1 Blower Motor Resistor. We promise to solve the problem for you. Made of high quality aluminum and ABS for maximum durability.www.ebay.com.au
Here is the parts diagram showing the controller as item 10.
Cheers, Ken
View attachment 213015
And my saga sadly continues … installed the newly received controller (see first photo below - unlabelled controller is the new one) and while it provided fractionally more airflow when the aircon was on auto, the airflow was constant across all the fan speeds when manually set (even at zero fan speed)! I remember reading in this and other forums that the inability to control the fan speed indicates the controller is on the way out - before I contact the seller about this potentially defective controller, anything else I should check?
I replaced the existing controller and the aircon returned to its original behaviour - controllable fan speeds up to half speed (4 half clovers) but does not increase airflow beyond half speed.
As an aside, whilst removing the controller, I did notice a loose socket - I’m assuming it may not be in use for another function not available in Aust, given the socket is tied to a housing pretty tight almost at its neck ie. the socket does not appear to have disconnected from anything in my car. But I appreciate some insight if anyone knows what this socket is for … please refer to second photo (loose socket circled in yellow)
As for my continuing saga of the weak airflow … appreciate further suggestions for next investigative steps (I have already established the fan can run a lot faster at max when bypassed).
Thanks everyone …
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That sounds like exactly what happened to me . My controller looks very different (it is for an XM or 605), but it sounds like they both came out of the same shonky Chinese factory. External appearance was perfect, but just like yours it produced a consistent output voltage across all settings, even the Off setting!
I complained - the seller asked for proof (but not return of the item) so I sent them/her a video. A replacement unit was supplied and performed exactly the same as the first, which confirmed to me that the incorrect operation was deliberate (rather than a manufacturing fault). I should have gone all out for a refund, but from memory it was only $20, and life's too short...
I solved the problem with a second hand one (but given the part was over 20 years old it's likely to fail again) . It should be possible to get a good new one, but just paying for a more expensive one could be throwing good money after bad! Buying one from Europe is not a guarantee of success either, as people buy the cheap chinese stuff and resell it!
Presumably buying one though a reputable parts distributor like Spareto or AutoDoc would work - but the killer tends to be the freight cost!!
Well it sounds like your fan current controller might be ok and it is a problem with the climate controller. The way to check that is to back probe the control wire that is going to the fan controller (the thin wire on the connector) and see what voltage it send at the different fan speed settings. I might be able to check mine so there are some figures for you to compare with.
Cheers, Ken
Cheers, Ken
Hi Ken, yes I was wondering about that (potential climate controller issue). I've already searched high and low for a better 6441S7 and while there are two options - ssg.asia and from Landmark Wreckers which Citroen at Roselands (Sydney) very kindly pointed me to (http://www.landmarkspares.com.au/fo...6441S7/XC8TBC/details?fr=13&fd=3000&ft=7&fb=0) ... - but the last thing I want to purchase the part and the same thing happening ... anyway if you could assist with some voltage figures from the climate controller, I would really appreciate it
- thanks.I tell ya what ... thank God my AC even at limited speeds at least it is still working otherwise I'd be literally hot and frustrated in this weather!
Happy new year Ken … hey my kids have been killing me with complaints of the p***weak aircon
- not helped by the black leather interior so easily becoming a heat sink despite my best efforts of parking in shade and with windscreen shade etc …Just wondering if you still have time to assist me with finding out the voltage for your control wire from the climate control …
Sorry, It had slipped my mind. So we are finally having a day with outside temperature lower then 28 degrees and the C5X7 is at home. So I ducked out there with some cardboard to kneel on and my multimeter, back probed the white wire on the fan speed controller with the red probe and connected the black probe using an alligator clip lead to the outer sheeth on an adaptor plug coming out the cigarette light socket. Here are the results.
Ignition off - 0.006 volts
Ignition on - 0.007 volts
engine running with fan not running ie 0 segments - 0.025 V
1 segment - 3.1 Volts
2 segments - 3.67 V
3 " - 4.1 V Fan still pretty quiet up to this setting
4 " - 5.12 V Starting to get loud now
5 " - 6.03 V
6 " - 7.16 V Definitely loud now
7 " - 8.51 V
8 " - 11.3 Volts Now making a huge noise
So what Voltage is you A/C Controller sending to the Fan Speed Controller at the different settings
Cheers, Ken
Ignition off - 0.006 volts
Ignition on - 0.007 volts
engine running with fan not running ie 0 segments - 0.025 V
1 segment - 3.1 Volts
2 segments - 3.67 V
3 " - 4.1 V Fan still pretty quiet up to this setting
4 " - 5.12 V Starting to get loud now
5 " - 6.03 V
6 " - 7.16 V Definitely loud now
7 " - 8.51 V
8 " - 11.3 Volts Now making a huge noise
So what Voltage is you A/C Controller sending to the Fan Speed Controller at the different settings
Cheers, Ken
Ken - can’t thank you enough. I’ll have to find some time soon to test this but first of all dig up the references in this forum on how to pull out the A/C controller. Will update!
You don't need to pull it out yet. I just pushed the red meter probe into the hole in the connector on the fan speed controller that the white wire goes into. That is enough to get good enough contact to read the control volage coming from the A/C controller.
To remove the controller, you need to turn it a little anti-clockwise and then it lifts out sideways. Look for a slot that will take a large slotted screwdriver and use that to rotate the controller. Take a picture of the orientation because it will only go back in in that position.
Cheers, Ken
To remove the controller, you need to turn it a little anti-clockwise and then it lifts out sideways. Look for a slot that will take a large slotted screwdriver and use that to rotate the controller. Take a picture of the orientation because it will only go back in in that position.
Cheers, Ken
Oh I should have read your post more carefully. Wait until you see what voltages you get before you worry about how to take the A/C Controller out. I can probably find the procedure required to get the aircon controller out anyway.
Cheers, Ken
Cheers, Ken
Ah that makes sense - thanks Ken. I’m quite proficient by now pulling out the fan speed controller
. This is good advice as it’s probably a lot quicker for me to check now.Hi Ken - I think I could be doing it wrong as I’m not getting a reading (ignition on) - see photos. The controller has to be disconnected from the connector? And is this white wire you’re referring to? Also I’m using the grounding nearby for the multimeter black cable - is that not sufficient?
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red wire probed, i.e stabbed through insulation, looks like alligator clip on the insulation only.?
also your meter may not be sensitive enough until say 0.1 volt reached, so you may need to dial the fan speed to see any change
also your meter may not be sensitive enough until say 0.1 volt reached, so you may need to dial the fan speed to see any change
I was admittedly in a rush (was literally sweating litres in the humidity) so when it cools down I’ll check the connections again, this time with the connector unplugged but also dial the fan speed up. Thanks
Looks like you had it connected correctly. I didn't detect any significant voltage until the fan started to run. Those initial measurements were 6, 7 and 25 thousanths of a volt - tiny.
Don't run it for long with it hanging out of the airflow like that because it will get really hot quickly at higher speeds.
Cheers, Ken
Don't run it for long with it hanging out of the airflow like that because it will get really hot quickly at higher speeds.
Cheers, Ken
The red lead on the multimeter is plugged into the Amps socket. You need to move that to the Volts V socket if you want to measure Volts.
The Amps range has a very low resistance so that when you connect the leads the meter in series with a load line to meaure the flow of electrons going down that line, inserting the meter should not affect the reading too much. If you are trying to measure volts with the probe in the amps position, you will short out the voltage and maybe cause issues for the voltage source or blow the fuse in your meter.
Try it out on a 1.5 volt AA or AAA battery to see if it will read a voltage.
Cheers, Ken
The Amps range has a very low resistance so that when you connect the leads the meter in series with a load line to meaure the flow of electrons going down that line, inserting the meter should not affect the reading too much. If you are trying to measure volts with the probe in the amps position, you will short out the voltage and maybe cause issues for the voltage source or blow the fuse in your meter.
Try it out on a 1.5 volt AA or AAA battery to see if it will read a voltage.
Cheers, Ken
Hi.
Good observation, Barnaby would be proud of you.
I checked the image again in #53 and I concur.
Cheers.
I finally got to the testing again this arvo - this time, I disconnected the controller and prodded the white wire in the socket.
But first of all, I need to own up to a schoolboy howler - my previous mini multimeter was not operating properly hence 0.00v! I replaced it with my big multimeter and all good since …
Anyway the results this time with engine running … massively puzzling!:
Ignition off - 0.0079 volts
Ignition on - 0.0098 volts
engine running with fan not running ie 0 segments - 7.04 V
All segments 1 - 8 (correct, all 8 …!) - 7.04 Volts
Unless I was operating the fan speed incorrectly (i just cycled through it from 0 to 8, that should take it off auto), I can’t for my life understand how the voltage can be constant when the controller still manages to control the speed gradually from 1 to 4 segments (having said that I may have been distracted with the connections potentially heating up so I may not have listened to the airflow properly to see if it was really changing as I was turning it up segment by segment). In better lighting I’m going to do the tests again tomorrow …
But first of all, I need to own up to a schoolboy howler - my previous mini multimeter was not operating properly hence 0.00v! I replaced it with my big multimeter and all good since …
Anyway the results this time with engine running … massively puzzling!:
Ignition off - 0.0079 volts
Ignition on - 0.0098 volts
engine running with fan not running ie 0 segments - 7.04 V
All segments 1 - 8 (correct, all 8 …!) - 7.04 Volts
Unless I was operating the fan speed incorrectly (i just cycled through it from 0 to 8, that should take it off auto), I can’t for my life understand how the voltage can be constant when the controller still manages to control the speed gradually from 1 to 4 segments (having said that I may have been distracted with the connections potentially heating up so I may not have listened to the airflow properly to see if it was really changing as I was turning it up segment by segment). In better lighting I’m going to do the tests again tomorrow …
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You have not tested the full system. These ECUs monitor all their outputs and it will detect an error if they cannot see the appropriate load on the output. I suggest you leave the controller in the air box and stick your pin or a thicker piece of wire into the back of the white wire hole in the back of the connector and then monitor what is going on with the different fan speeds. That is how I measured the values in my car and you should be trying to replicate my method so you can compare the results.
Cheers, Ken
Cheers, Ken