Bulbs and globes for lights

Hi.

Cheap they may be, but having been caught previously, I don't believe that "xinda.oz" is physically based in NSW, but in China. There are pages of negative feedback if you click on the online store.

I want to buy from a legitimate supplier where I can have confidence that the supply chain is intact and I am purchasing genuine products made by a reputable manufacturer, and that I am not purchasing "knock-offs".

But I don't think that legitimate domestic suppliers are doing themselves any favour with high pricing strategies. It tends to direct customers to try lower cost alternatives.

Cheers.

View attachment 206095
For headlights, these are the only ones worth buying.

 
For headlights, these are the only ones worth buying.

Hi.

Thanks for the link.

I am not familier with globe technologies.

Still labled 12V 55A, so relative to a "standard" bulb, what is changed in the design and/or materials to extract an additional 150% more light output?

What is the compromise? Do they have a shorter life? Do they generate more heat in a polycaronate lamp housing?

Cheers.
 
Still labled 12V 55A, so relative to a "standard" bulb, what is changed in the design and/or materials to extract an additional 150% more light output?
All to do with something called ablation o_O
According to the datasheet from Osram Germany
"Thanks to innovative laser ablation technology, NIGHT
BREAKER LASER halogen headlight lamps shine up to 150%
brighter compared to the minimum legal standard. The highly
engineered filament ensures an extra light boost."
 
Hi.

Thanks for the link.

I am not familier with globe technologies.

Still labled 12V 55A, so relative to a "standard" bulb, what is changed in the design and/or materials to extract an additional 150% more light output?

What is the compromise? Do they have a shorter life? Do they generate more heat in a polycaronate lamp housing?

Cheers.
wot seasick said - shorter life, but noticeably brighter. Totally worth the dosh.

Not silly short life, im still getting years out of them although im not spending a huge amount of time driving at night.
 
Part of the weight reduction regime for my Reliant included replacing the 5.1kg, 35amp Lucas alternator with a 14amp permanent magnet alternator off a Kubota weighing only 1.4kg. As I only had 180watts to play with I had to reverse engineer the electrical system to suit. I reduced the headlights down to 35/35W and the rest of the lighting to LEDs. The 80W thermo fan and ignition coil took care of the rest of the output . I've never had a flat battery so it's worked out OK.

I used these bulbs and they have a bloody good beam and have been going for over 5 years now and counting.
$20 EBay specials from somewhere in Aust, as they arrived in less than a week.

images.jpeg
 
Hi.

Thanks Seasink for the Osram URL

An interesting technical article here from Osram. https://www.carlightblog.com/2019/06/27/which-headlights-are-right-for-the-night-breaker/

The article indicates that Night Breaker bulbs that have higher luminous flux achieve a better and more noticeable improvement on reflector based lamps. On lens or projector based lamps, there is less noticeable improvement. The trade off is shorter life.

This article explains how the greater luminous flux is generated. Essentially by using thinner wire and more tightly wound filament. As the light source is now smaller and geometrically accurate, it can make better use of the reflector and not waste unnecessary light on spillage. It also mentions that many "fashionable" bulbs actuatlly emit lower luminous flux levels. https://www.carlightblog.com/2019/02/08/short-dictionary-of-lighting-terms-luminance/

As most driving hours are on low beam, even on the freeway between Ballarat and Melbourne, I would be inclined to fit a set of H7 Night Breakers in the low beam lamps when the originals blow.

PS: in post #42, I incorrectly typed 12V 55A, I meant to say 12V 55W.

Cheers
 
For headlights, these are the only ones worth buying.


I purchased these a few years back on your recommendation. The 407 lights went from barely legible shit, to being almost usable. They certainly don't last as long, but are worth every cent. The 407 lights are shithouse so anything that helps is well worth it!. They are much cheaper on ebay than anywhere else.
 
I purchased these a few years back on your recommendation. The 407 lights went from barely legible shit, to being almost usable. They certainly don't last as long, but are worth every cent. The 407 lights are shithouse so anything that helps is well worth it!. They are much cheaper on ebay than anywhere else.
i reckon the projectors in most OEM lights from europe are just a bit shit... I put some new Taiwanese made headlights in the Megane i rebuilt and they are million times better than the factory ones - i reckon the factory ones are just dodgy on the reflective coating inside the bowl...
 
HI.

An interesting technical article here: https://www.carlightblog.com/2018/03/27/projection-vs-reflection/

It suggests that projector lamps don't show the same improvment that high luminous flux output globes make for reflector lamps.

Also that the more modern H7 bulb doesn't achieve the same improvement as earlier halogen bulbs. ie, they are pretty good already.

It suggests that Silverstar 2.0 series are the best for projectors lamps.

As Mrs Whippets 2008 has projector low beams, but reflector high beams. I am inclined to order a set of Osram Silverstar 2.0 from PowerBulbs. There pricing is very competative and much lower than what you pay in Australia. AU$24 for a twin pack plus $4 postage is much lower cost than local purchase.
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Cheers.
 
You can check these, they have great headlights. It might be a bit costly but worth it
 
The problem with conversion LEDs is that the existing headlight reflectors can't focus them. This is technically a registration/roadworthy fail.

Cars built using LEDs have focussing to suit.
 
Wreckers round here look it up on e bay and halve the price
 
Hi.

The low beam performance in the 2008 SUV is unsatisfactory. Travelling to Melbourne at night I need more illumination and sight distance to see and miss potholes in the pavement on the freeway. One of the H7s in the low beams was blown, and as I didn't have any spare globes I swapped a H7 from the LH high beam to the blown LH low beam for the interim.

I purchased online from Brisbane a two pack Osram Night Breaker Silver H7 12V 55W for $43 delivered. As per my comments in posts #47 & #51 these are what Osram recommend for projector lens low beam headlights.

After I fitted these, I had some spare time so was interested in the voltage drop, and measured this with the engine idling from bulb terminals to battery posts. I was a little be surprised and also a bit disappointed that this vehicle had so much volt drop in the supply and ground circuits. I then measured the cable in the loom and including the thin insulation the OD was 1.8mm. I wasn't going to strip back the insulation but thin though it is, there wouldn't be much cross sectional area for the conductor.

I also measured the voltage drop from battery post to the 10A fuses for each high beam, (in the under-hood fuse box), and only got 0.035Volts drop to this point, so that is very acceptable. Not sure where the supply for the low beams are from, but it wasn't obvious.

The other night I also adjusted the cut-off for the low beams up a little, as even with the dash controlled adjustment at the highest setting the low beam horizontal cut-offs were hitting the pavement not very far in front of the vehicle. So the low beam cut-offs are now hitting the pavement at about double the distance, as they are now only a little bit below horizontal. This did improve the performance of the low beams and sight distance.

I will need to test drive the vehicle tonight to see if the Osram Night Breaker Silver H7 12V 55W make much difference. I suspect I won't notice much difference, as the low beam alignment has made the most improvement.

Cheers.

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old time fix was a couple of relays and nice fat wire, can do in a modern car ?
We've found it's more relaxing to use Geelong Rd and bypass. However, Rokewood Rd could be dodgy in the dark... ! You'd be on the Ballarat Rd though, dunno what that's like. The Western Hwy is terrible, but mainly past Ballarat.
Bob
 
Hi bob.

On prior older vehicles I have added upgraded looms and relays, with excellent outcomes, but that was when access was less cluttered and much easier. It would be a fiddly job to do this neatly on this vehicle.

At freeway speeds at night the potholes in the Western highway mainly east of Gordon can potentially damage the low profile tyres on the 2008; its in the media a bit and the pavement is quite badly damaged due to the rain. So I needed to do something to improve sight distance.

I think that low beam adjustment has made the most improvement. Without doing a side by side comparison it is difficult to establish if the Osram Night Breaker Silver H7 12V 55W are an improvement over the standard OEM bulbs, the marketing on the packet would have you believe they are. But I can now see much much further anyway with good even illumination of the pavement into the distance on low beam, so am very happy with the outcome.

Cheers.
 
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