Bringing a 404 back from the brink
- Thread starter luthier
- Start date
Dan;
Thanks for the detailed explanation.
Looking at what you can achieve, simply confirms my belief that young school children should not be classed as gifted and talented. The term is often bandied around at young school student, who have high academic abilities. However, in my humble opinion, this belittles anyone who can excel in their chosen past-time or career, because they too are gifted and talented. Therefore Dan, you you fall into the realm of being gifted and talented.
Dano
If you could let me know the serial number, I could add this one to the Register, even though it's likely to be scrapped.
The trouble with gifted children is they can only make it to the top if a number of conditions are fulfilled. However bright and gifted, if there's no support from anywhere it is unlikely that they will get anywhere. Rarely some kids have enough drive on their own regardless of parental or peer approval but mostly the ones who excel have a loving supportive family and some kind of direction towards studious pursuits. Marriage breakups and dysfunctional families tend to disrupt these bright kids and render them unsuccessful in the longterm.
Therefore observers may take a dim view of 'privileged' children who just seem to have everything, and talent as well.
Personally I support kids who make it through that maze and come out on top. There should be more of it but sadly the state of public education has been on a downward spiral since the time I left school in 1970, and probably for awhile before, though I always thought my edumacation was quite good.
I don't think that admiring their academic achievement belittles others who are successful in other ways.
But thanks for the high praise. I've been making instruments now for 50 years, so who knows maybe in the next 10years I might become an overnight success. More likely after I'm dead.
Cheers!
I'm having second thoughts about this.
So I've stripped it out pretty much, taken out the front and rear screens removed seats and doors guards and sills. Both front floor pans have gone along the outer edges.
The chassis under the sill is patchy at the front for the first foot on the drivers side a bit less on the passenger side. There are only a couple of small holes in the front screen groove . At the rear there are holes on either side close in where it's covered by the lower linings.
It looks like a few days work with a mig, a bit of brazing and a bit of bogging.
My plan is to start at the front and work back.
I haven't really had a good look underneath yet as I only got it on concrete under cover a couple of days ago so that will be the clincher after I get it up on stands. I liked the suggestion to fit 50mm square tube into the cross member.
Managed to get it running quite nicely and found reverse though still unsure how. Can someone please tell me how to put these in reverse? As I've forgotten I was just mucking around and it went in 3 times but then I couldn't repeat so I think it's the weird linkages.
But I drove it forwards around the back and into my shed so a few things are OK.
As far as rego up here I wouldn't dream of a Blue Slip but a Pink Slip is all that I need for Hysterical Rego and for that it just has to be tidy, inside and out and underneath. So if welding is done nicely and then everything is treated with underbody bitumen and POR15 inside , sound deadener, decent paint etc. there's no problem in NSW.
It will never be a Dano Mobile but I think it's worth saving so far.
Of course inside the rear guards may be like Swiss Cheese but peering in the holes at the rear screen edges it looks alright.
No idea about roof linings, it's not torn but is a bit stained and grubby. Maybe a judicious clean up could work if it doesn't crack up on me.
The sills will have to be done with Fibreglass I think unless anyone knows where to get new ones?
Anyway, first a bit more investigation.
So I've stripped it out pretty much, taken out the front and rear screens removed seats and doors guards and sills. Both front floor pans have gone along the outer edges.
The chassis under the sill is patchy at the front for the first foot on the drivers side a bit less on the passenger side. There are only a couple of small holes in the front screen groove . At the rear there are holes on either side close in where it's covered by the lower linings.
It looks like a few days work with a mig, a bit of brazing and a bit of bogging.
My plan is to start at the front and work back.
I haven't really had a good look underneath yet as I only got it on concrete under cover a couple of days ago so that will be the clincher after I get it up on stands. I liked the suggestion to fit 50mm square tube into the cross member.
Managed to get it running quite nicely and found reverse though still unsure how. Can someone please tell me how to put these in reverse? As I've forgotten I was just mucking around and it went in 3 times but then I couldn't repeat so I think it's the weird linkages.
But I drove it forwards around the back and into my shed so a few things are OK.
As far as rego up here I wouldn't dream of a Blue Slip but a Pink Slip is all that I need for Hysterical Rego and for that it just has to be tidy, inside and out and underneath. So if welding is done nicely and then everything is treated with underbody bitumen and POR15 inside , sound deadener, decent paint etc. there's no problem in NSW.
It will never be a Dano Mobile but I think it's worth saving so far.
Of course inside the rear guards may be like Swiss Cheese but peering in the holes at the rear screen edges it looks alright.
No idea about roof linings, it's not torn but is a bit stained and grubby. Maybe a judicious clean up could work if it doesn't crack up on me.
The sills will have to be done with Fibreglass I think unless anyone knows where to get new ones?
Anyway, first a bit more investigation.
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2000
- Messages
- 11,441
Reverse pull the lever towards you then move lever anticlockwise. Don't do it too quickly or you might end up stuck in second and have to pull the extension housing off to get things working again. First is where reverse is in the earlier cars.
Looks really good to me, but then I know how to weld...
Yes just getting the mig organized, a box of butt clamps , the nibbler and a box of scraps.
It’s going to be a slow easy job. Engine running smoothly, and everything is stripped out.
The idea is to do a small amount often.
Photos once the welding starts.
It’s going to be a slow easy job. Engine running smoothly, and everything is stripped out.
The idea is to do a small amount often.
Photos once the welding starts.
How Kewl and funny , so I get a koala stamp for trucking on.
The robot told me I had this award:
Never had an award like that before. If only they knew????
The robot told me I had this award:
Seriously likeable!
Never had an award like that before. If only they knew????
I don't know what a butt clamp is, but it sounds like something used in prostate surgery. (Sorry, couldn't help myself.)
Hi luthier,Hey Dano, I've decided not to pursue this project. Thanks to your expose of what is likely I can easily see a large waste of time there, and that's time I'd rather use making instruments. I just finished the one below and plan to start another one soon. I feel this work is more productive for me than playing with rust. Cheers.
Nice work.
This link is to a website of another luthier. He is based in Hamilton, NZ.
Keith MacMillan Stringed Instruments
www.macstrings.co.nz
A photo on the site shows a mandolin that he made for his own use.
I had the privilege of making the sterling silver cover for the string anchor plate (or whatever it is called)
Keith has developed a pickup that is unobtrusive but gives very good results.
He is very approachable if you ever want to discuss anything.
Cheers,
Bryan
Sorry, couldn't resist.