drop it in the boot like the cx and see if I can split it with the auto clima already in the car
FWIW, I've had D's go 100K+ miles in Arizona with the factory setup, which drives everything from the cam chain. It's the water pump front bearing that usually fails every 40K miles...That's a lot of stuff hanging off the camshaft....... all driven by the cam chain.
I wouldn't do it.
Agreed. Note the reinforced pulley in my photograph.All the more reason to have reintroduced the crankshaft pulley that DID appear on some 21 injections.
That's a lot of stuff hanging off the camshaft....... all driven by the cam chain.
I wouldn't do it.
Well not really, when the camshaft system was designed I'm sure the engineers never envisaged a setup like that.They have always had that much stuff hanging from the camshaft , but with this set up the water pump does not suffer the high loads to drive a compressor .
Also the new rotary compressors are much easier to drive and with out the big shock loading of the old York piston comp.
That looks really interesting. Can you let us know where you got it all from. It looks like it is designed to use existing ventilation outlets?just made for the job and under $1000
Your logic isn't flawed. It's a problem of finding an alt big enough that a) physically fits and b) won't suck the engine down to pre-war Traction levels of power when that system kicks on. Your battery is for two purposes only: starting the car, and acting as an accumulator/capacitor. Once the car is running, the alternator takes over all functions of a car.On behalf of Michael, the new owner of my former '74 DS23, thanks for all your suggestions, everyone. There's a lot of food for thought in the preceding 19 posts.
Buttercup Bob, as I said in my opening post, I removed the air conditioner from the car for a couple of reasons, one being my concern about driving the compressor - especially the old York unit - via the timing chain and camshaft. I had wondered about driving the compressor from a well supported (as in bearings) transmission shaft, but I don't think that's feasible with the BW35 transmission fitted to this car.
Electric-powered compressors don't seem to be very popular - not least because of the efficiency losses - but I wonder whether a more constant load (i.e. alternator charging the battery) would be less demanding on the camshaft drivetrain than the mechanically driven compressor, especially as it cuts in and out...or is my logic flawed?
Chris
all from our trusty Chinese friends on Alibaba it may or may not arrive and could be could or maybe shit that's the risk dealing with the ChineseThat looks really interesting. Can you let us know where you got it all from. It looks like it is designed to use existing ventilation outlets?
Does HC-12 (a) require a special compressor oil?Also, one should consider using HC12 as the refrigerant. It has better thermal properties than even good old R12, which means lower condenser pressures and less load on the compressor. I have used it in Arizona, where we see 40C+ pretty regularly and it does a splendid job. Yes it is an inflammable mixture of propane and isobutane but you only have about 1/4 Kg in the whole system.
HC12 is compatible with petroleum oil and, it is actually compatible with PAG oil also (unlike R12 which will form acid if exposed to PAG oil). Thermostatic expansion valves (TEVs) are pretty much the same today as 40 years ago. IIRC the Coolaire unit uses a standard Four Seasons Internally Balanced TEV, which is pretty inexpensive so you can replace it if you have any concern about it being inoperative or dirty. (The evaporator is certainly easer to clean if the TEV is removed.) I remember Ed Noriega's setup. I think it drives the compressor at half speed, so depending on where you live, you may not get adequate cooling in traffic.Does HC-12 (a) require a special compressor oil?
I am currently setting up a DS21 using some older R-12 Coolaire components. I'm still gathering components for this project.
I recently purchased a set of new 'Made in America' under bumper condensers I found on USA e-bay.
These appear to be an almost exact replacement for the '70's vintage Coolaire condensers. The new condensers have more rows in the finned box.
I plan to use a Sanden SD 508 compressor mounted onto a tall style transmission Coolaire mount, so a right side install (I have a LHD US model), and plan (maybe?) to use a single vee belt onto a three grove water pump pully, and a tension pully. I'm planning to use the available York to Sanden adaptor at the bracket.
I have an older article by Ed Noriega who presents a method of using a long V belt from Condenser to camshaft pulley, returning by the bottom of the hydraulic pump pulley that makes sense.
Also, I would like to ask, will I need to replace the older expansion valve on the older Coolaire evaporator with a more modern expansion valve?
Thanks in advance.
That's an interesting point. Does it put more strain on the cam chain if a compressor pulley is driven directly from the cam pulley - rather than driven from a secondary pulley? Or is the point here that any additional pulley under the bonnet is one too many?That's a lot of stuff hanging off the camshaft....... all driven by the cam chain.
I wouldn't do it.
My point is that through the progressive devolution of the DS more and more stuff was driven via the cam chain.That's an interesting point. Does it put more strain on the cam chain if a compressor pulley is driven directly from the cam pulley - rather than driven from a secondary pulley? Or is the point here that any additional pulley under the bonnet is one too many?
Andre Pol has reproduction shrouds and fans.I am looking for an Coolaire plastic under wing condenser fan shroud if anyone has a spare. I have one of two.
Meanwhile, Happy Motorin' to all.