Advice on swaping 505 gti engine in 505 gr body.

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Tarekdiab

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Tadpole
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Hey guys
I’m new here. Recently I bought this 83 manual GR and I was wondering what will be envolved in swaping a 1985 gti engine in the GR body.
Thanks
 
It is straight forward easy as I done it in my 504 10 plus years ago with series 2 loom, wiring will mostly clip in to GR loom together if gti is a series 1, will need to run tachmetric relay wiring loom under the steering coloum though , also mount fuel pump and run GTI fuel lines as bigger and return line, straight forward work, if is a series 2 GTI it can be difficult but sure someone can help here
 
Tarekdiab said:
The 5 speed manual in the GR won’t bolt into the gti engine?
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As Graham Wallis said different gearbox different bellhousing and imput shaft, also bolt on slave cylinder.
Clutch is the same though if you have a good one in the GR
Your GR looks clean I like that colour
 
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Okay, I think I can source a BA7/5 which was in a gti.
But I think the car I will take the gti engine from is series 2 right? It’s that one in the picture
 

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You will need engine mounts (aluminium plus the rubber parts) , exhaust as far as the first muffler, radiator, starter motor.
 
The best bit about the 505 GTi is not so much the engine but the springs and struts (same as late STi and 505 turbo). The sway bars are also different to the GR. Also the faster steering rack is worth using, if you don't already have power steering ( the 505 turbo had a faster one again, but only available in LHD).
 
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Nice 505's!

Why the bother for the slightly bigger engine? But have fun either way :)
 
davemcbean said:
The best bit about the 505 GTi is not so much the engine but the springs and struts (same as late STi and 505 turbo). The sway bars are also different to the GR. Also the faster steering rack is worth using, if you don't already have power steering ( the 505 turbo had a faster one again, but only available in LHD).
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I assume all the parts will bolt straight into the GR body?
 
The series 2 struts in a Gr will give it 1.5 neg camber much better turning in, sway bars are bigger too.

Everything will bolt in except the wiring loom is different between series 1 & 2
Need any advice pm me
Cheers BP
 
Tarekdiab said:
Started to think that it’s not worth it
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STi/GTi engine is not particularly good. Especially the unleaded version. Motoring writers on the release of the STi in Europe wondered why they bothered as the 2 litre was so good. Bit different here with the 2 litre nobbled by pollution equipment. Just get the pushrod engine running properly, that is remove the pollution equipment fit a new dissy, get the carby rebuilt etc. 123 brand distributors are fully computerised, no moving parts except for the rotor, 16 ignition curves so will suit anything from 203 to 505. In stock for Peugeot in Australia.
 
Can the faster rack be used without having P/S ?
for the sake of having less turns
davemcbean said:
The best bit about the 505 GTi is not so much the engine but the springs and struts (same as late STi and 505 turbo). The sway bars are also different to the GR. Also the faster steering rack is worth using, if you don't already have power steering ( the 505 turbo had a faster one again, but only available in LHD).
Click to expand...
 
Yes you block the power steering off and get rid of the ram. Grease up the ram and it’s just as light but low speeds is abit heavy. I used to run this on my racecar until I got power steering kit with an engine I brought.

Ben
 
GRAHAM WALLIS said:
STi/GTi engine is not particularly good. Especially the unleaded version. Motoring writers on the release of the STi in Europe wondered why they bothered as the 2 litre was so good. Bit different here with the 2 litre nobbled by pollution equipment. Just get the pushrod engine running properly, that is remove the pollution equipment fit a new dissy, get the carby rebuilt etc. 123 brand distributors are fully computerised, no moving parts except for the rotor, 16 ignition curves so will suit anything from 203 to 505. In stock for Peugeot in Australia.
Click to expand...
I'm aware the received wisdom is that the 2.2 Douvrin is a bit "gutless" when you look on paper the output of the thing (in GTi guise) is about 1kW different to a Mercedes 230 (peak torque comparison has similar miniscule variation). Don't recall the motoring press making similar judgements on the Merc. (or maybe I just read the wrong journals!). I think the truth lies more in what you're asking the engine to pull - don't believe me just pop the bonnet on a 505, if it won't open then sign up for about eight weeks weight training at your local gym - should work just fine after that o_O other body panels presumably just as OTT - I know the tailgate on the wagon is ços I had to use an engine crane to hold it when I needed to repair the hinge. There's massive weight there (1.4 tonnes as compared under 1.3 for the 230) for a relatively small motor to haul around.
 
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