6x9s in a 306

S

sjl

Member
Fellow Frogger
Joined
Jun 23, 2003
Messages
69
Location
Sydney
Has anyone installed a pair of 6x9s in the parcel shelf of a 306? If so, does it involve a lot of work or is it pretty straight forward?

One other thing, How much space is there in the front speaker cavities to upgrade speakers? i.e. how big can I go?

Cheers

Simo
 
Pretty straight forward sjl

I went and bought a new parcel shelf for ~$100 and modified it to fit them in. That way I could still use the screw on plug fitting etc. Pity they're crappy hand-me-down Sony XPlod's but hey.

You're welcome to have a look at it if you like.

Derek
 
Could be an option.

Isn't there a way to use the existing shelf? The plastic housing the stock speakers seems like it can just be screwed off. Then when you take the speakers out wouldn't you just be left with two holes you can modify to fit the new speakers?

You might be able to help me with this too. I basically want to install some splits in the front, 6x9s in the back, run them all off a good amp but keep the crappy 4x10w (or whatever pissweak power it has) eurovox head unit and stacker.

All this stuff will be sony coz I get mates rates plus I don't think their products are bad at all.

However, my mate at sony has warned me about Eurovox, and I'm wondering if I will run into mountains of problems running an amp through it. The fact is I'll be paying about $800 for the equipment and really can't afford another $500 for a decent head unit.

Cheers again

Simo
 
sjl,

When I said crappy Sony - I meant because they've been thrashed to death with an amp and (I think) lots of techno. Bit scratchy now at times... That and they are bright red.

You have to cut larger holes in the parcel shelf - and do away with the grilles from the standard speakers. As such - you can never go back to the standard speakers when it comes time to sell. I like to be able to keep all the standard parts so it's easy to restore the car to original if necessary. That's the only reason I bought a new shelf.

Derek.
 
Have a look at some late model 306 Pugs. the rear parcel shel is made from some fibre material is is very rigid. And I see no reason why it wouldnt support normal 6x9.
Have you considered 6inch speakers with tweaters? Arguably you would get a better sound as th amsss would be lower for the shelf to support and the high end tweeters can be mounted away from parcel shelf.
 
I'll be putting some splits in the front and have my eye on some 6x9s that have only just been released are supposed to be awesome.

I'm one of those people who think music should be played loud, but I'm not one of those people who just want to attract attention to the car.

I had my eye on a 10 inch sub but I really need the boot space (for my golf clubs). I had two 10s in my last car and although the sound was great I think I've gotten over that stage.

So in the end I think I will stick with 6x9s because you can get quite a lot of bass out of them, which will compliment the treble produced by the front splits.

Anyone know what size the original front speakers are?
 
I just fitted mine with a new pair of 16cm Sonys. Fitted fine but I am going to make up some thin rubber spacers as I really feel that they don't seal properly to the door.

Stuart
 
I dunno about the 306's

but in the 206's the eurovox system plays havoc with kenwood and sony head units, you have to get some kind of conversion adapter and even then it will sometimes play havox with your little display screen above the unit (if you have one)

I say make sure the dudes installing it have delt with eurovox systems before, otherwise some of your electrics could stuff up. Also my mate made a spare parcel shelf for his 206 by using some thick carpeted MDF and a jigsaw folowing the exact shape of the original one. We fasted two 6"x9"'s onto it, as well as a 9" subby in the boot. Then cover the top of the parcel shelf (and the speakers) with a thin layer of translucent carpet stuff which lets the sound pass through, but makes the 6x9's totally invisible to the outside. Looks great :)

[EDIT "thick layer" was meant to be "thin layer"

<small>[ 06 August 2003, 02:19 PM: Message edited by: n b j ]</small>
 
Firstly, the standard Eurovox headunit has no RCA outputs. You would have to use speaker level inputs on the amp (if it has them) or get a convertor from Jaycar which takes speakers to line level (RCA) input. This is a less than optimal combination, however as you don't want to buy a new headunit at this stage it should do.

The parcel shelf will need to be cut to take 6x9's. My personal choice would be to get 6" 2 ways in the rear existing holes and get a 10" sub in a sealed box. The 10" should cost around $100 for a decent sub, try Jaycar's again, these are great value for money. A sealed 10" box you can make yourself for $50 with carpet. This will give a better sound than heavy 6x9's in a very light parcel shelf.

Regarding front speakers, I have JL VR 6" which fit very well into the standard monuts. Any decent 6" will fit, just take one of the door speakers into the shop when you go looking to compare.
 
...brad? should i post?... ill probably end up costin him 10G's or talking him out off it altogether.-chris

ps, ......gota have a go. a good head unit, no amp 6"-2ways in the front doors and the rear shelf would sound better. With music, feed it shit, sound like shit. So spend the mone on a good head unit first, even on the stock speakers, it will sound considerably better.
The fron doors in a 306 are actually quite shallow, and tini. So use the factory speaker as guide. The doors wont accept much deeper than factory. Don't bother with 6x9's. they aren;t much better than 6"s and sound worse in music terms, but if you want cheap doof doof, (and no sub) use em.
Do as deka and others. Seal them properly and put 12mm mdf sheet underneath the shelf. spray matt balck/cover in grey carpet. ae sure the shelf sits VERY tight and sturdy...
There was another post with a 205 or 206, ithink.
 
...brad? should i post?... ill probably end up costin him 10G's or talking him out off it altogether.-chris

ps, ......gota have a go. a good head unit, no amp 6"-2ways in the front doors and the rear shelf would sound better. With music, feed it shit, sound like shit. So spend the mone on a good head unit first, even on the stock speakers, it will sound considerably better.
The fron doors in a 306 are actually quite shallow, and tini. So use the factory speaker as guide. The doors wont accept much deeper than factory. Don't bother with 6x9's. they aren;t much better than 6"s and sound worse in music terms, but if you want cheap doof doof, (and no sub) use em.
Do as deka and others. Seal them properly and put 12mm mdf sheet underneath the shelf. spray matt balck/cover in grey carpet. ae sure the shelf sits VERY tight and sturdy...
There was another post with a 205 or 206, ithink.
 
sjl:

One other thing, How much space is there in the front speaker cavities to upgrade speakers? i.e. how big can I go?
Click to expand...
I was just about to put up a new post in regards to some new ice for my 306. I think the cavities in the front are quite small about 4" (im not certain)but i know they are small. I'd love to hear some other peoples knowledge and experience in regards to a good setup for the 306, more importantly installation of the dam thing and what will fit and what won't.
 
ok
mine is pretty old but it does me for now
plus i don't really want to deafen the kiddies in the back seat
i have a 12 year old kenwood head unit with a 10 stack in the boot
kicker splits in the front with an amp powering kenwood 7X10's in the rear with an amplified sub from super cheap
the sound isn't too bad from such an old head unit but over the years the sound quality is slowly but surely dropping away
i have been told that the head unit's age is the problem for the sound deterioration but it's not really noticeable unless you really pump it up
i am eventually going to make an MDF shelf and get a new head unit and stacker (yes i like stackers) and would like to run an amp for the fronts and rears and another amp for a sub
i was only thinking the other day if i made an MDF shelf i could mount the sub in the middle of the shelf with a bit of a box behind it
what do you guys think ???
 
just wondering if anyone on these boards has gone the hole hog and sound deadend and sealed the front doors and made up custom angled pods for them / or kick pannels, if so can they post some pics and tell me what i will find behind the door trims.
cheers dave.
 
pugrambo:

i am eventually going to make an MDF shelf and get a new head unit and stacker (yes i like stackers) and would like to run an amp for the fronts and rears and another amp for a sub
i was only thinking the other day if i made an MDF shelf i could mount the sub in the middle of the shelf with a bit of a box behind it
what do you guys think ???
Click to expand...
... its my opinion Pugrambo, that is a disaster waiting to happen. Much better would be a box mounted to one side of the car.
The thing is, a decent Sub-box has to really be made of hi-density MDF, which is heavy, a sub and box combo for lets say a 10" can weight 15-25 Kg, depending on size and sub weight etc. Now imagine in a hard braking situation the inertia this will have will most likely carry the whole box and dice over into the cabin acting like a projectile. Ive seen 6x9's do this, hence im not a big fan.
I know you posted you dont do alot of ks but ins't safety an issue. Besides unless you could mount the box/shelf combo it will sound poor. why? bass is a very low frequency that we don't realy hear. There is small special cartlidge(spel?) behind our ears that translate Bass as a sound.... so bass we mostly feel. hence if the box isn;t tied down to car, you will loose alot of the bass feel and sound.. also the shaking of the shelf will have funny affects on the resonance in the car. To get anywere with it you will have to turn up the volume, to over come possible inherent resonance.
When i had my system ($7000) in my 306, i spent lots om making things surely tight to the chassis/body. If SPL means anything to anyone, my single JL audio 10" with 220Wrms made 141dB on a properly measured spl comp mike. Most people couldn't belive the sound a single ten made. But i spent nearly $2500 of that money just on installing it myself....
some of you already know i did this for money a few years back. so make off that what you will.
Pugrambo, i put a small sealed box with a small 8" quality sub in the side of the boot and use the ancorage points to make metal straps and hold it down VERY tight. make the box VERY solid and tight. It will sound A1.
Then would leave the standard grills on the pug parcel shelf, but remove the speakers. Run 6" quality splits on the front all powered by a 4 channel amp and the best head unit you can afford. cheers -chris

ps, im happy to give calls to people i used to know in the trade and get a decent price on items...
 
i have 6x9s in my 306 they are very easy to put in,aslo i have 6inch spits at the front and tweaters they sound much better on are amp and are 12nich sub at the back with the 6x9s,all my speakers in my 306 are all running off amps

p.s go to members gallery(JFN306) and you can look at my set up
 
i have an amplified sub tube securely located to one side in the boot that sounds fairly good
i was just going through ideas as my poor old kenwood is getting a few years under it now
i don't get much of a chance to crank the system up these days but i do like to know i can if i want but even at normal volume which it is at 95% of the time i do like quality sound
 
east_bay_punk:
just wondering if anyone on these boards has gone the hole hog and sound deadend and sealed the front doors and made up custom angled pods for them / or kick pannels, if so can they post some pics and tell me what i will find behind the door trims.
cheers dave.
Click to expand...
I sound-deadened my whole 306, but didn't build pods, nor took photos.
306's are tricky in that peugeot use Torx style screws, the doors have grey foam like covers inside as well as the power windows controls and power mirrors wiring. The door pins/fobs are tricky too, be very carefull when removing these. The N3's and N5's have diferent trims, but the theory is the same.
Clean out the bottom of the doors with fresh clean water, crap alway's builds up in there. And use a brush on a water based paste deadener (like Sound-Off silica paste), ass its easy for begginers to just literaly brush on. cheers -chris
 
pugrambo:
i have an amplified sub tube securely located to one side in the boot that sounds fairly good
i was just going through ideas as my poor old kenwood is getting a few years under it now
i don't get much of a chance to crank the system up these days but i do like to know i can if i want but even at normal volume which it is at 95% of the time i do like quality sound
Click to expand...
Well, fortunately its up to you, and how much you want to spend. Personaly, what alrteady have is reasonable. id replace the head unit, and sound-deadned the front doors, which will do alot for the sound quality......
The rest is up to your hip pocket. cheers mate-chris
 
I bought a Holden VS adaptor for the Eurovox headunit so I didn't have to cut any of the stock wires and its easy to plug the stock headunit back in :) Had to also get a Euro->Jap style antenna convertor.

I'm using a shitty old 97 or 98 model Pioneer DEH-P713. This headsunit only has 30W PMPO or whetever they use to inflate RMS :p , but it was a substantial difference compared to the Eurovox POS. Running stock fronts and rears the sound is acceptable, added 2x10" subs from Jaycar and it really pounds. The 306 as most hatchbacks has great bass feedback. I did have 2 x 12" Pioneers in a huge 100L ported enclosure which literally shook the roof panel and made the rear wiper bounce off the window. Some ppl on the first melbourne cruise would've seen these beasts :)

I had some 6x9s on the parcel shelf using Jaycar 6x9 spacers, but I found a sub to be much more worth it. If you want bass, go a sub definately. Leave out the 6x9s all together.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top