407 cambelt change

Check 1st video on 2nd post about 1.16.
OH missed this tip in ~ Plus one must ensure the belt is pulled taught in one direction so as to fit over the tensioner & idler pulley.
Use A spring clamps to hold belt in place on all cam gears.

Spring-Clamps. jpg_.jpg
 
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excellent, that 1st video shows a tensioner that isn't spring loaded..... you can see he fits it after the belt is fitted. That simply mustn't back off far enough unless you have the factory tensioner. I'll get bakc to it this afternoon. This should have only taken 5minutes. I'm guess this is called "education time" right :clown:
 
DoubleChevron said:
hmm... i just fast forwarded that video to see if he had any issues. he bolts the tensioner into place once the belt is on..... I'm guessing that must be the only way to do it ..... why make something so simple, so incredibly difficult .... grrrrrrr......
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Thats standard practice on any number of engines, the Megane and the Magna and i30 included.
 
RINGER said:
Check 1st video on 2nd post about 1.16.
OH missed this tip in ~ Plus one must ensure the belt is pulled taught in one direction so as to fit over the tensioner & idler pulley.
Use A spring clamps to hold belt in place on all cam gears.

View attachment 210563
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pegs pilfered from the clothes line also work ;)
 
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Haakon said:
Thats standard practice on any number of engines, the Megane and the Magna and i30 included.
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I've never needed to fit the belt before fitting a tensioner before..... I have done BX, XM, Xantia, C2, GS cambelts before. you should see how cut up the backs of my hands are from trying to squeeze them in that spot past the engine mounts.

Its just "backwards" to the original tensioner, the original one spring loads to "tight", this one spring loads to "loose". I guess I better hope the bolt doesn't come loose ..... maybe so loctite will be a good idea :)

I do have the big locking pin kit with the belt retainers. You don't really need them for this car. This should have been the simplest one ever if I'd understood how to get the belt on. There is one cam, a crank ... no injection pump..... the simplest you could possibly think of. So you can just fit the belt without the helper springs and pegs.
 
So you can just fit the belt without the helper springs and pegs.
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Make things easier for yourself if y'all use them!
The second video is by far the best if y'all take the time....he is not a mechanic & probably takes longer but does explain well.
the Continental ones are also always good. JG.
 
DoubleChevron said:
I've never needed to fit the belt before fitting a tensioner before..... I have done BX, XM, Xantia, C2, GS cambelts before.
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Guess you got lucky with those ones ;) If there is a second roller as well as the tensioner, its ofter easier to fit that one after the belt goes on - theyre usually a bigger bolt thats easier to get the thread started on with a bit of belt tension against the roller.
 
Well its on finally ..... I've been seeing XM's lately and thinking "why did I sell that ... should get another"..... Well this utter shitheap has reminded why I passionately hated working on that thing so much. This should have been a simple job.. Maybe everyone else has freakish child sized hands?? No matter what height you lift/drop the engine too.... you just can't get to the tensioner. You can't see the marks to line it up (ended up using a mirror). There would be the perfect amount of space if they hadn't put the dogbone mount bracket right through the middle of it. I reckon the cuts and grazes on the back of my hands will be healed up fine given a few weeks though :rolleyes: I think I'd rather change the timing chain on a Citroen DS than do one of these again (I admit it would take me 10% of the time if I did one again .... as I now have learnt the "gotchas").

So what I ended up doing was just backing the spring off and pinning it and just let the thing twist all out of shape.... then fit the tensioner with the belt in place .... wihtout cross threading the bolt (as its probably under slight tension). Then trying to line up the locking tabs on the base once it was together.

Why so bloody difficult ?? I need to get some of those tiny hands with eyeballs in the tips of them that PSA mechanics must have.
 
Just take out the engine and do the belt on the bench - easy ;)
 
I'll be damned ..... the clattering driveshafts have fixed themselves. Who would have thought, the new engine mount must have lifted the motor up enough that the driveshafts no longer clatter.... bizzare.

Oh, if you find the car suddenly has no boost at all after being worked on .... behind the inlet manifold ... beside the fuel filter housing there is two small hoses that pull off. With them off all boost goes bye bye :( .... they sure do suck as an N/A motor!
 
So if these poogoe cambelts are so bloody hard to get your hands into the access space on ..........

1665391928395.png


How about one of these ....?? Boss women would like to buy one of these in town, but it looks like poogoe have made the access to the cambelt even tighter (how is that possible). Maybe all poogoe mechanics are midget with baby sized hands :clown: Does anyone know of a smart way to work out if a cambelt has been previously changed? I'm thinking NOT givne they are a 10 year/ 180,000km belt. So its due in age, but not milage.
 
One of these? It's the same as a non-hydraulic C5. Only little things like the battery and brake reservoir vary.

Here is a hydraulic C5
c5 motor.jpg
 
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seasink said:
One of these? It's the same as a non-hydraulic C5. Only little things like the battery and brake reservoir vary.

Here is a hydraulic C5
View attachment 211272
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think smaller


1665394706395.png


a little fun poogoe for her. She's been asking for a "little fun car, that's fast'ish with a manual gearbox" for about 12months now
 
Who wants to hazard a guess what the local poogoe dealer just quoted me to change a cambelt on the 2.0HDi poogoe. I told them what it was and they said "we changed one of them a month or so ago" ..... which is hard to believe given this is probably the only one on town :confused: So they could give me a ballpark right away.
 
DoubleChevron said:
Who wants to hazard a guess what the local poogoe dealer just quoted me to change a cambelt on the 2.0HDi poogoe. I told them what it was and they said "we changed one of them a month or so ago" ..... which is hard to believe given this is probably the only one on town :confused: So they could give me a ballpark right away.
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$1,800.

I think that other candidate vehicle might be a 308.
 
Whippet said:
$1,800.

I think that other candidate vehicle might be a 308.
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close ... but no cigar. The boss women just paid a desposit. My poor scarred, cut, bruised hands, how the hell am I going to get the belt onto that (maybe the kids here have smaller hands ..... hmmmm :evil: ). Her criteria, is

a) must be small
b) must be fun
c) must have a manual gearbox
d) must be fun
e) must have a manual gearbox


We have been looking for at least 12months for a small, fun, frugal car for her to drive...... spent months looking and everything is either crazy expensive ..... or boring as batshit ( ... but mostly I'm scared of upkeeping like that 1.6 turbo that seems to be in every fun small car with a manual gearbox made in the last decade ). Hey in looking for a car for the boss women, we found the C2 for my daughter though :clown:

She spotted a poogoe in a carpark about 6 weeks ago .... wondered what the hell it was as she'd never seen one before. SO went and asked the owner "what is it"..... I looked it up and found a rare diesel one for sale ballarat. So we went "just for a look" :rolleyes: And now own the most stupid, family unfriendly ... but fun car we have probably ever owned.

So rather than a cheap fun to drive run-about for her with low milage and not much age. we have ended up with an older car, with some milage on it .... that is probably as rare as the CX turbo. Sensible right?

Oh: $2200 to change the cambelt. For $218 inc delivery I can buy the kit with pump and with MUCH :mallet::mallet:🤬🤬🤬 change it myself save an easy $2000
 
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