308 Petrol 1.6 Turbo (EP6) update (depollution error and other codes)

[gstsaver]

After replacing the valve cover and the oil lines for turbo (included taking off the exhaust manifold) I have the following codes:

-P0599, (piloted thermostat), P2603 (electric water pump) and P2279 (Intake air flow inconsistent)

-Most importantly DEPOLLUTION ERROR (which I assume is from running way too rich)

-it is blowing soot out the tailpipe, and the spark plugs are black (freshly replaced with the other work, the old ones weren't black)

So something I did has caused this to happen (bad part or bad skills)

Note: I also replaced the water pump and thermostat after seeing those codes but neither went away (I can deal with them later)

Compression is good (140, 145, 145, 140)

Voltage to the Upstream O2 (1.5v) clearly shows it is running way too rich (along with the black plugs)

Any suggestions? I assume the exhaust manifold isn't leaking. It doesn't sound loud and there isn't any visible exhaust gases. (I know a leaking exhaust manifold could cause it to run rich.)

Main concern is to stop it running so rich , which I assume will get rid of the depollution error.

P.S. I replaced the valve cover a second time and same issue.

P.P.S. If there is a good mechanic/enthusiast in Melbourne area that will come look at it to diagnose for a fee or even help diagnose based on readings from my scanner (i.e. live data) I am happy to pay

 

[David S]

Firstly, you should make sure all the air hoses are connected and there no splits. Ensure all the small pollution hoses are fitted correctly after you changed the engine cover.

Was it a genuine cover or an aftermarket cover? Some aftermarket covers have defects baked in and you would find at least one YT vid of a Mini owner fixing such a fault in a new aftermarket cover.

Do you have a richness regulation misfire fault? One possible cause of rich running in a 308 (also B78 Picasso) is raw fuel reaching the engine via the carbon canister. This can happen when the tank is full and the rollover / vent valve float has failed and it allows raw fuel to exit the fuel tank. It only happens when the tank is almost full or you corner hard with a mostly full tank and one or both of the valves has failed. Check for fuel leaving the canister.

 

[gstsaver]

Firstly, you should make sure all the air hoses are connected and there no splits. Ensure all the small pollution hoses are fitted correctly after you changed the engine cover.

Was it a genuine cover or an aftermarket cover? Some aftermarket covers have defects baked in and you would find at least one YT vid of a Mini owner fixing such a fault in a new aftermarket cover.

Do you have a richness regulation misfire fault? One possible cause of rich running in a 308 (also B78 Picasso) is raw fuel reaching the engine via the carbon canister. This can happen when the tank is full and the rollover / vent valve float has failed and it allows raw fuel to exit the fuel tank. It only happens when the tank is almost full or you corner hard with a mostly full tank and one or both of the valves has failed. Check for fuel leaving the canister.

Thanks. I checked all the air hoses and they seem fine. Which ones would be the most likely to have issues that I wouldn't see easily?
Where is that canister to check?
The previous valve cover was sucking in heaps of air from the side (could feel it when removing the side hose), got a new one and that part is OK now.
I am at a loss as to why it is running so rich.

The only codes are the three above.

 

[gwest]

If you have this sort of buildup in your intakes it will cause problems with air-fuel ratios. It would be consistent with your "inconsistent intake air flow". You should eliminate this as a problem before continuing.

 

[gstsaver]

If you have this sort of buildup in your intakes it will cause problems with air-fuel ratios. It would be consistent with your "inconsistent intake air flow". You should eliminate this as a problem before continuing.

Yes, but I didn't have this issue prior to replacing oil lines to turbo and the valve.cover (plugs werent black at all before either)

 

[seasink]

Excessive oil now in the combustion air? Turbo bearings leak a little, but the new engine cover includes the crankcase ventilation valves and oil separator. It has two outlets to check.

 

[gstsaver]

Excessive oil now in the combustion air? Turbo bearings leak a little, but the new engine cover includes the crankcase ventilation valves and oil separator. It has two outlets to check.

What should the two outlets do? Should there be suction on either?

 

[seasink]

Crankcase pressure. Rear hose to intake plenum. Left end one to turbo input which will suck when running..

 

[gstsaver]

Thanks - I think it seems to be working ok but hard without a smoke machine to see if breather pipe has a leak.

 

[gstsaver]

How much oil should come out of the turbo?

Cleared the codes and that air code and depollution isn't coming back yet but it is running rough

 

[FourPot]

The previous valve cover was sucking in heaps of air from the side (could feel it when removing the side hose), got a new one and that part is OK now.

Some sellers sell the 'revised' valve cover, however this also requires the revised air pipe from the air box to the turbo as this has a check valve mounted just before the sensor. Without the check valve, it will suck air.

The rear right PCV vent running to the intake manifold is generally open on idle. The front left PCV vent running through the pipe above will normally open once the turbo is sucking enough air to act upon the spring. The change on pressure should, as far as I can tell, close the rear PCV and vice versa.

The rear PCV hose can become brittle with age and can crack quite easily.

What do your long term fuel trims look like?

 

[gstsaver]

Thanks. I got rid of the codes (I bought that check valve).
However, it is still running rich and lots of smoke when I remove the oil cap.
I still need to get a new electric water pump as the one I bought must have been faulty as I still have the same code. So I don't want to drive it much until I fix that as the turbo stays hot to touch even hours after turning it off.

 

[dimistyle]

Can you hear the turbo electric cooling fan running when the engine is turned off and as short drive. If NO, also check wiring to the cooling fan as this can be soaked in oil and pins need to be cleaned or wiring is damaged.

Oil in turbo and intercooler hoses..... minimal

Is it possible the turbo seal is already damaged and oil through the new oil feed hose you installed is now pouring into the exhaust rather than down the engine block?

Replacement cartridges are cheap enough to buy or get rebuilt locally by.turbo specialist

 

[gstsaver]

Thanks. There is some oil in the turbo hoses. I'll check the fan for the turbo cooler... Don't recall hearing it run.
I would assume the electric water pump not working isn't great for the turbo.

 

[gwest]

To reiterate FourPots question, what is your LTF trim?

 

[FourPot]

Thanks. I got rid of the codes (I bought that check valve).

You mentioned you bought another valve cover - does this one have the integrated check valve on the left-hand side PCV? If so, the external check valve is not needed. It may cause issues if you have both.

However, it is still running rich and lots of smoke when I remove the oil cap.

When you had the exhaust manifold off, did you happen to check the condition of the catalytic converter? These can block/crack over time and may lead to excessive EGTs.

In a healthy car, you'd generally only see a light misting of oil due to the PCV. Can accumulate over time and be seen post intercooler. Large amounts of oil around the turbo suggests it may need repairing/replacing, as dimistyle suggested.

What prompted you to change these parts in the first place? Were there symptoms prior to the work?

Have you had a chance to check the LTFTs?

 

[FourPot]

Not too sure as I haven't experienced any issues with this system before, and I think it would generally throw codes, but have you had a look at the vapour purge solenoid? Any suction on fuel filler cap?

It can differ slightly by year, etc.

 

[gwest]

I recently replaced the leaking valve cover on my DS5 THP because it had a mist of oil all over the top of it. And the car stank after switching off. It seemed to be a problem with the sealing of the large cap over the PCV area. I replaced it with a newer model (lower one in attached photo) that I think is more amenable to replacing the PCV diaphragm if required, but was puzzled by the option of inserting a plug at the mid-rear of the new unit. After reading a bit on this site I did not fit the plug, but I did fit the separate non-return valve in the LHS breather pipe leading to the turbo intake. Now you have me wondering FourPot.

 

[FourPot]

After reading a bit on this site I did not fit the plug, but I did fit the separate non-return valve in the LHS breather pipe leading to the turbo intake.

If you car originally had that top valve cover fitted (pictured), the check valve is integrated just within the port. On the later valve cover, it requires the check valve leading to the turbo. As for the plug in the center, I think it may be a fail-safe valve to vent to atmosphere. Some mini forums have said an additional part is be inserted (maybe for emission standards compliance regarding atmospheric venting). From my understanding, just as with the original valve cover you've shown, the red plug is meant to be removed (the original cover would have had it too, before install).

 

[gstsaver]

To reiterate FourPots question, what is your LTF trim?

I don't think my scanner shows this. I also have a video of the smoke coming our of the oil cap when running but can't upload it because it says the file is too big?