307 Hdi timing belt

Tonch504

Do yourself a favour and get the correct belt changing procedure and special tools for the engine thats in your car.

Read the procedure before you start and make sure you understand it and are confident you are able to follow the procedure, other wiseI can see this ending in tears. :2cents:
 
Thanks COL,

Excellent advice. The procedure which you posted the link to, sounds comprehensive. Is this a Peugeot procedure and/or is it reliable? Just asking in case you only meant it as an example of what I need.

The only part of the procedure which seems unclear is the setting of the auto tensioner. When it stated turn anticlockwise to max, what is maximum? Being eccentric, does it mean turn it until its at the point where it will begin to become looser if turned further? And then the note which states if the tab goes past the notch "17", to repeat the process, how can it go past 17? Do they mean you have returned it, clockwise, carelessly and gone past the notch?

Thanks again.
 
tonch504 said:
Thanks COL,

Excellent advice. The procedure which you posted the link to, sounds comprehensive. Is this a Peugeot procedure and/or is it reliable? Just asking in case you only meant it as an example of what I need.

The only part of the procedure which seems unclear is the setting of the auto tensioner. When it stated turn anticlockwise to max, what is maximum? Being eccentric, does it mean turn it until its at the point where it will begin to become looser if turned further? And then the note which states if the tab goes past the notch "17", to repeat the process, how can it go past 17? Do they mean you have returned it, clockwise, carelessly and gone past the notch?

Thanks again.
Click to expand...

It was the first procedure that came up with the Google search I did. A factory manual would be a better guide.
 
The official maker's manual for the engine can be found in the link I gave earlier. There is a better comprehensive manual for the RHR engine in the C5 at http://service.citroen.com/dtt/CDP/donnees/fr_FR/2008_C5_III/2008_c5.zip, from page 267 onward, written in French. Don't be put off, it can be translated online. pulley.jpg

Re the crank pulley, here is the pic. Ignore anything in these Citroen manuals about bodywork etc. The engines are the same.
 
Thanks COL and seasink,

The procedure you provided, COL, seems to be the right one.

The photo you provided, seasink, looks to match my engine. I'm sorry I dismissed the link you provided. I only did so because the link doesn't work. It may be that I'm using an iPad. I'll try it on a PC.

Thank you both again.
 
They are .pdf files wrapped in a zip. You'll have to extract them from the download. Citroen used to and still makes this information public and free while Peugeot doesn't. Unfortunately for later cars they have stopped the practice.
 
Hi Tonch504, you may have done this by now but if you haven't there are some other posts on this topic on this site if you search a bit. The cam belt is only due every 180,000 km which seems extreme but several knowledgeable members confirmed it. I have a bit of 8 m.m. rod about half a metre long bent to about 45° which I can get into the hole in the block through to the flywheel with out removing the starter. The hole in the block is very difficult to find. You will need to lock the flywheel somehow, I cut a few reverse ring gear teeth into a piece of 3 m.m. plate which I bolted to the block. I also blocked the cam sprocket with a short piece of plate from one tooth to something nearby. The crank sprocket keyway is much wider than the key. The keyway won't necessarily be centred over the key, when you have the 8 m.m. rods through the flywheel and the cam sprocket and set the auto belt tensioner the cam timing is set and you then nip up the crank and cam bolts. I wouldn't leave the locating pins in the flywheel or cam sprocket for final tightening of those bolts. Both are specified for initial torque and then a number of degrees of rotation. When you have finished tightening them check to see that both the 8 m.m. pins can still be fitted. I did remove the panel in front of the windscreen, access was much improved. The (later) Haynes 307 manual is quite useful. The early one didn't cover this engine.
 
Hugh Venables said:
Hi Tonch504, you may have done this by now but if you haven't there are some other posts on this topic on this site if you search a bit. The cam belt is only due every 180,000 km which seems extreme but several knowledgeable members confirmed it. I have a bit of 8 m.m. rod about half a metre long bent to about 45° which I can get into the hole in the block through to the flywheel with out removing the starter. The hole in the block is very difficult to find. You will need to lock the flywheel somehow, I cut a few reverse ring gear teeth into a piece of 3 m.m. plate which I bolted to the block. I also blocked the cam sprocket with a short piece of plate from one tooth to something nearby. The crank sprocket keyway is much wider than the key. The keyway won't necessarily be centred over the key, when you have the 8 m.m. rods through the flywheel and the cam sprocket and set the auto belt tensioner the cam timing is set and you then nip up the crank and cam bolts. I wouldn't leave the locating pins in the flywheel or cam sprocket for final tightening of those bolts. Both are specified for initial torque and then a number of degrees of rotation. When you have finished tightening them check to see that both the 8 m.m. pins can still be fitted. I did remove the panel in front of the windscreen, access was much improved. The (later) Haynes 307 manual is quite useful. The early one didn't cover this engine.
Click to expand...

Hi Hugh,
Thanks for your advice and sorry about the late reply. I managed to get as far as attempting to remove the crank pulley nut. But, even with the rattle gun, I simply couldn’t remove it. So, it all went back together and the vehicle went to the mechanic. Cost a bit but I know it’s done correctly.
 
Well I won't tell you how to undo the crank nut then.:yawn:
It might start another brawl.

O and if I tried to follow all the procedures described above I'd never do a timing belt but I've done heaps no probs.
 
Hugh Venables said:
Hi Tonch504, you may have done this by now but if you haven't there are some other posts on this topic on this site if you search a bit. The cam belt is only due every 180,000 km which seems extreme but several knowledgeable members confirmed it. I have a bit of 8 m.m. rod about half a metre long bent to about 45° which I can get into the hole in the block through to the flywheel with out removing the starter. The hole in the block is very difficult to find. You will need to lock the flywheel somehow, I cut a few reverse ring gear teeth into a piece of 3 m.m. plate which I bolted to the block. I also blocked the cam sprocket with a short piece of plate from one tooth to something nearby. The crank sprocket keyway is much wider than the key. The keyway won't necessarily be centred over the key, when you have the 8 m.m. rods through the flywheel and the cam sprocket and set the auto belt tensioner the cam timing is set and you then nip up the crank and cam bolts. I wouldn't leave the locating pins in the flywheel or cam sprocket for final tightening of those bolts. Both are specified for initial torque and then a number of degrees of rotation. When you have finished tightening them check to see that both the 8 m.m. pins can still be fitted. I did remove the panel in front of the windscreen, access was much improved. The (later) Haynes 307 manual is quite useful. The early one didn't cover this engine.
Click to expand...

MY 308 with the RHR engine is up to 151K

A dealership I trust says this is now 120K (but say has varied over the years), my NZ handbook says the same i.e. 120K the UK warranty guide says 160K. As a result I intend to get mine done
 
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