307 Hdi timing belt

T

tonch504

Member
Fellow Frogger
Joined
Nov 21, 2010
Messages
250
Location
Sydney
Hi all,

Have recently bought my son a 2006 307 Hdi 2.0. The car was sold originally in Tamworth and was serviced by the book at the dealership. I think it is a good honest little car.

Unfortunately for me the timing belt is due for replacement.
Only because I have heard the horror stories, I'm frightened of doing it myself. Even though I have restored an entire car including engine rebuild.

My question is, is the belt replacement really that hard?
Any advice would be appreciated.
 
Here is a procedure that I found from a quick Google: How to Replace timing belt on Peugeot 307 2.0 HDi 2005-2007

I have done the timing belt on my 2002 Renault Laguna V6 and my advice is read the procedure from start to finish and make sure that you are able to complete all stages competently. Also make sure you have the correct tools for the job (including the tools to time the engine correctly). If you answer yes to all then you should be able to achieve the belt change.
 
Access is a tight, but the job is doable, The big MUST is to peg the camshafts and crankshaft. Particularly before loosening the crank pulley. I think the engine is a RFN, but check the VIN. The engine code is at positions 6,7,8. Citroen publish a very short how-to for the various engines in C4s at http://service.citroen.com/dtt/CDP/donnees/en_US/en_us_t2_2005.zip, so look it up by code.
 
Thank for the advice. The VIN is VF33CRHRJ84....... does this mean the engine type is "RHR"?
 
RHR is correct. That engine is also known as the DW10BTED4, and was used in Citroen C5s and Peugeot 407s as well, so info from those cars will do also.

It should give pretty good performance in the smaller 307.
 
It appears the timing belt only drives one camshaft sprocket. I believe the engine is a 16 valve (only because the engine covers says Hdi 16). Is there an internal chain driving the other cam?
Also, it seems there are a number of different dw10 engines, with various kW ratings. How do I determine which is in my car?
 
RHR (or DW10BTED4) nails the engine type, listed in the 307 brochure as 100kW/320Nm.

The cam shafts are connected by chain drive. The belt drives one only. Two valves per cylinder per camshaft = 16 valves.
 
What ever else you do, peg the camshafts and flywheel. The timing wheel is not keyed on.
 
Would you mind giving a bit more detail on your last recommendation, seasink? I was going to insert a bolt or drill bit into the flywheel, through the block, and another through the camshaft sprocket into the head. Your last sentence about the timing wheel not being keyed on troubles me. Have I missed something?
 
tonch504 said:
Would you mind giving a bit more detail on your last recommendation, seasink? I was going to insert a bolt or drill bit into the flywheel, through the block, and another through the camshaft sprocket into the head. Your last sentence about the timing wheel not being keyed on troubles me. Have I missed something?
Click to expand...

Don't worry it has key way just mark the old belt to the pulley and block on the crank and cam and put marks on the new belt and line up . Are you using a rattle gun to remove the crank bolt ? Also the crank sensor and target are very sensitive to magnetic fields some avoid those magnetic part trays etc
And take the crank sensor wiring off before undoing the cover for the cam belt .


Sent from my iPhone using aussiefrogs
 
Ok dmccurtayne, where is the crank sensor located? And yes I was going to use a rattle gun to remove the crank bolt.
 
crank sensor is located on the flywheel.

I've only changed the cam belt on the earlier 8 valve engine. I think the 16v engine should be easier, because the cam belt no longer drives the injector pump, so simpler pulley arrangement. (or so I imagine)
Also looking at my 407 Haynes manual, you don't need a special belt tension meter anymore, as you just line the tensioner pulley up with the marks provided. How easy is that.

The old 8v was no fun:disappr:
 
The crank sensor is behind the crank pulley remove the sensor before taking cover off then carefully remove the target plate ( black and gold plate thing on the crank ) also hold the crank pulley from turning anti clock wise when removing crank bolt with hand is ok when refitting all up tension the belt before doing crank pulley up to get timing correct.


Sent from my iPhone using aussiefrogs
 
G'day tonch
when undoing the the aluminum r/h top engine mount only loosen the rear bottom bolt take out the other three
There is a slotted hole this bolt holds you timing belt idler you don't want to take this bolt out till you have installed your two lock pins
IMAG1190.jpg
flywheel lock hole is behind the starter disconnect battery unbolt starter and slide out of your way{ leave cables on }
Mine had Allen key not torx .
The crank pulley need to be centered when reinstalling.
The woodruff key is not a firm fit the pulley has a gap both sides ,I used 2x 4mm long bits of match stick
either side of the woodruff key to center it there is a Peugeot tool .
A 16 mm ratcheting combination spanner is extremely helpful so is a very long 15mm ring spanner to release the fan belt tensioner
i made one by welding 250 mm round bar into the mouth of a 15mm combo spanner .

IMAG1192.jpgIMAG1195.jpg
Removing the support panel the one with the Brake/clutch reservoir screwed to it +wiper arms & trim panel base of windscreen
Gives a whole lot more room not necessary . When setting up the auto timing belt tensioner i had a light shine up under the r/h guard casting a shadow of the indicator into the slot .
IF in dought put your own marks on your pulleys & old belt before removing then transfer marks to new belt they must line up
With the 2 lock pin in place you cant go wrong double check nothing moves and all will be good
 

Attachments

  • IMAG1195.jpg
    IMAG1195.jpg
    102.5 KB · Views: 423
gromzx said:
crank sensor is located on the flywheel.

I've only changed the cam belt on the earlier 8 valve engine. I think the 16v engine should be easier, because the cam belt no longer drives the injector pump, so simpler pulley arrangement. (or so I imagine)
Also looking at my 407 Haynes manual, you don't need a special belt tension meter anymore, as you just line the tensioner pulley up with the marks provided. How easy is that.

The old 8v was no fun:disappr:
Click to expand...

Pls don't comment unless you are sure


Sent from my iPhone using aussiefrogs
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top