2001 Peugeot 406 D9 Petrol

The saga continues. Well it's not just me. Jim was generous enough to drop by and try his luck. No success and the locking ring is still well and truly locked in place. So, back down to the old 406 HDi (with the failed AL4) in the backyard to experiment further. Successfully undid the locking ring. Hang on! As dmccurtayne pointed out - the access hole in the floor of the car is not big enough for the locking ring to fit through, let alone the pump. What!!! Who would be stupid enough to design an arrangement like this?

Much wailing and gnashing of teeth.

Surely, I must be missing something here. Surely, replacing the fuel pump doesn't necessitate removing the fuel tank?

I'm all ears, folks.
To access / remove the fuel pump you will need to use tin snips and cut slits 20mm deep at 90 degrees all around the opening and then bend each tab up, replace pump etc. and bend tabs back down.

Sealing the locking ring is a bugger so I am told.

I’m on my second pump as the original packed it in @ 330,000 km from new, 406 SV V6 2000 D9 5Sp @ 403,000 km
Sounds drastic. Wouldn't that weaken the body shell?

Good to know I'm not the only one with fuel pump problems.

One problem in getting advice about this problem is probably that there are relatively few 406 owners, their owners may not have had a fuel pump problem, and the problem of the ring and pump not fitting through the hole, I gather, only relates to D9s.
We would quote people both ways because especially now the cost of removing the tank can right off a 406 and no it doesn’t cause any weakness if done carefully
I can quite understand that removing the tank to change the pump is not a quick job, which would mean a high cost.

When you say done carefully, could you please explain further? Do you mean as per tigercl suggested?

I greatly appreciate all the advice.
I got a 406 HDI and it also leaked from the fuel pump locking ring. The fuel pump had been replaced before I got it.
same as above had to cut part of the floor and bend it out of the way, to get the pump out. Whoever replaced the pump did not clean around the ring properly and the build-up of sand dirt and rocks prevented the locking ring from screwing fully down. Vacuum the whole area and clean it properly. Make or buy the proper tool to remove and refit the ring, Mark the start of the threads on the ring and the tank and align it before attempting to screw it down. Put some petroleum jelly, (vaseline) on the threads and the seal. The floor can be sealed with some silicon or gaffa tape. Mine never leaked again.
Great advice. Thank you. Because the locking ring is extremely tight, I've decided to take the tank out approach. I don't think I can get enough purchase on the locking ring through the floor, even with the hole enlarged.
Is there much fuel still in the tank ? I took out my 206 tank for the same reason and had heaps of fuel.. The tank dropped out okay after I put blocks under so it wouldn't drop so far. Then had to lift the thing in order to decant it into another container.
I was pretty tired of the smell of petrol by the end. Just take it in easy stages, Peter. If it starts to get hard or frustrate you, just go and have a cup of tea and come back later.
Unfortunately for me, there is over half a tank full of petrol. I'm planning to syphon it off into some jerry cans, so at least the tank will be lightish.

Your advice about a cup of tea is a good one. I'm getting a bit old to be rolling around on my gravel driveway so the odd break to be looked forward to!

It's a long time since I've had so much fun!
I remember we are more or less the same age.....you poor old bloke. :D
Actually, I did a largish job recently in about 4 or 5 easy stages over a period of days. There was no rush, so why not ? And it turned out to be a very successful job, of which I am quite satisfied.

Gravel driveway ? One of my mates swears by large flattened cardboard boxes to lie on under his car. But I have an old rug....luxury !
I'm trying to think positively! Doing lots of walking is good for me. Also, travelling by bus is stress free and fairly cheap.
My 2 cents your time would be better spent making a tool or just buying one. The ring can be easily damaged and they tighten and loosen way better if they are torqued from the centre. If you pull the tank there is no guarantee that it won't still leak when you are finished.

Rightly or wrongly, I'm going for the tank out option. I've removed the locking ring on 406 HDi in retirement and, although very tight, was nowhere near as tight as the one on the 406 in question. Although I don't want to take out the tank, the locking ring is so tight I reckon it may be necessary, just to get good access.
Rightly or wrongly, I'm going for the tank out option. I've removed the locking ring on 406 HDi in retirement and, although very tight, was nowhere near as tight as the one on the 406 in question. Although I don't want to take out the tank, the locking ring is so tight I reckon it may be necessary, just to get good access.
Happy to lend my tools if you pay post
Thanks for the offer. It's appreciated and I'll keep it in mind. Step by step.

My 206 locking ring saga was a bastard, not just because I had to take out the tank, but because it was impossible for me to do up the locking ring so that the matching marks matched up again. I put the tank back and the car smelt of petrol, so I took it out a second time and took it to a Pug mechanic, whose tool had a long handle for greater leverage. Even he couldn't get it QUITE done up to the matching marks, but luckily it then sealed.
I had a real laugh at this last post. You know, the support I (and others) get from this forum is terrific. In my case, it helps a great deal. If my car minded, and cluey, son lived even vaguely close to me, you know who would be doing this job! Hmm. He might be reading this, so I'd better not push things.
Happy to give you a laugh ! We've all been there with a broken bolt....

The hard part is not getting the ring off....it is getting it back on without the damn tank still smelling of petrol because the ring has not been done up to the matching marks.
From memory, I originally did it up (if it was a clock) to within 15 minutes.. But the second time the Pug mechanic did it up to within about 7 minutes. The trick is to lubricate the thread and do it up towards the very the end in one motion, the way you do with head bolts.

You can always repair the crack....I don't think there is a lot of pressure in there and you have a choice of plastic welding or using something like Devcon.

You will always smell it soon if it leaks again. Fire extinguisher mandatory though....:rolleyes: