1979, 504 Ti - Running rich

If you can't get the KF running properly, you should consider twin 40 mm DCOE's (DCOE manifolds are hard to find, but available) or a Weber DGAV on an Argentinean manifold and an electric fuel pump like a Facet.. Not quite as smooth, but very reliable and far less temperamental. It has been my experience that the KF system can run forever, once. Once you open it, it's game over. You can send it to hermann.sattelberger@de.bosch.com. for a professional rebuild, but then the fuel pump tends to crap the bed when sitting long. So the carburetors provide peace of mind for a long time.
Thanks for the tip. I have already got my hands on a PRV V6 from a 604 which i am currently considering to rebuild or not. But i have 3 KF pumps, and i wont get peace of mind before i get one of them to work properly...
 
hi Alex, that hose appears to be from oil filler cap to air filter. i was meaning small hose from that small t piece connection on shown hose to inlet manifold. i may be wrong as its been nearly22years since i got out of my workshop so mental backspacing may be a bit foggy at times.... jim
 
hi Alex, that hose appears to be from oil filler cap to air filter. i was meaning small hose from that small t piece connection on shown hose to inlet manifold. i may be wrong as its been nearly22years since i got out of my workshop so mental backspacing may be a bit foggy at times.... jim
Ah, of course, my mistake. But i haven’t noticed a restrict sleeve in that either. At least I know for sure there’s not one in the new hose that’s there now, but I will look into it, check some spare parts catalogues.
 
Alex it appears you have the distributor drive 180 degrees out and you haven't told the pump.
 
Thanks for the tip. I have already got my hands on a PRV V6 from a 604 which i am currently considering to rebuild or not. But i have 3 KF pumps, and i wont get peace of mind before i get one of them to work properly...
If you are going V6 you might consider the 2995 cc even fire from an XM , Lugona , 607 .
Larger valves and much easier to EFi being even fire.
A good used motor might not need a rebuild , just swap the bottom and timing case from the 604 .
 
Have you checked the vacuum at the manifold and pump? Perhaps the pump is seeing low vacuum. which would look like the throttle's wide open, and injects accordingly.

Also vacuum related, the dome over the diaphragms needs to be airtight. I'm not sure whether air getting in there would make it rich, but I do remember that it was important that it not leak.

Also, have the injectors been checked? If one or more is leaking/low cracking pressure the vacuum of the engine may be able to draw excess fuel.

Best of luck. The TI is such a good car when it's running well.

Have fun,

Rob.
 
Alex it appears you have the distributor drive 180 degrees out and you haven't told the pump.
Please elaborate? Like someone mentioned here earlier, the Haynes manual got it wrong, so at first it did not fire, until i turned the distributor 180 degrees.

Have you checked the vacuum at the manifold and pump? Perhaps the pump is seeing low vacuum. which would look like the throttle's wide open, and injects accordingly.

Also vacuum related, the dome over the diaphragms needs to be airtight. I'm not sure whether air getting in there would make it rich, but I do remember that it was important that it not leak.

Also, have the injectors been checked? If one or more is leaking/low cracking pressure the vacuum of the engine may be able to draw excess fuel.

Best of luck. The TI is such a good car when it's running well.

Have fun,

Rob.
I havent measured the vacuum. Do you know what it should be? The dome, and all hoses etc are airtight, at least it seems like it when im spraying around with start gas.

And yes, the injectors were tested in a bench, and they are ok.

From all your comments and what i have learned, the things i have not yet come around to test is if the fuel return-line is fully open, to measure the CO and to have a real test drive.
 
Can't really give you a figure. Manifold vacuum should be something like 20" Hg at idle but, given that the car isn't idling well, it probably won't be that. Without even using a gauge, you could try sucking on the vacuum hose to the injection pump and making sure it holds vacuum. Or remove the hose. Maybe a wasp has nested in there. Who knows? Thinking about it, there may have been multiple hoses between manifold and pump. Not sure why they would have needed more than one, but this might be your opportunity to find out...

I'm afraid my advice is pretty generic. The deepest I got into my TI's pump was replacing the diaphragms, but its principles are pretty straightforward. It includes a mechanical "computer" that determines squirt duration from several inputs: altitude, temperature, engine speed and engine load (manifold vacuum for the KF5). These inputs determine the effective stroke of the injection plunger. The modern EFI "fuel map" is in the KF too: a physical 3D curved surface. Imagine the original tuning: taking a grinder to the "fuel map" to richen things up in one spot. Sheesh.

It would be a good idea to put a pressure gauge on the fuel line to be sure that it's not too high. Something under 20psi I think.

Have fun,

Rob.
 
Alex it appears you have the distributor drive 180 degrees out and you haven't told the pump.
Please elaborate? Like someone mentioned here earlier, the Haynes manual got it wrong, so at first it did not fire, until i turned the distributor 180 degrees.

Alex I've found with mine it needed to have perfect setting of the ignition system first with number 1 piston at TDC " back of engine"
in ignition stroke with the smaller offset of the distributor drive facing the Ti pump with the groove pointing to very front right head bolt.
I used a 123 distributor in M53 curve with number 1 distributor lead at 11 o'clock .
 
On my 504 cab if it is started cold and run for a while without driving the plugs come out black but after a bit of a drive they come out brown colour .
 
Almost ready for a test drive, hopefully later this week.
 

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good to hear your 504is nearly ready to road test, i guess you are aware of bedding piston rings in by loading engine up in 3rd or 4th gear and giving it full throttle for a short distance50to100metres or so.others may have a different technique worth listening to...... jim
 
good to hear your 504is nearly ready to road test, i guess you are aware of bedding piston rings in by loading engine up in 3rd or 4th gear and giving it full throttle for a short distance50to100metres or so.others may have a different technique worth listening to...... jim
Hi Jim. No i was not, so all tips are very appreciated!
 
Took it out for a test drive today, about an hour of trouble-free driving, the engine ran great, even idled well after it got up to temperature. Still a lot of soot, so I’m hoping to take it out for another go later this week, and hopefully try to adjust the pump with a proper Co meter at hand.
 

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What type of spark plugs would you guys recommend? Currently running on NGK BPR6ES. Just ordered Champion N6Y which the Haynes Manual recommends.
 
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I seem to recall that it is an NGK BP7ES for a Ti. Anyone know for certain?
 
Hi
Nice colour, what type of green colour is your car ?
Thanks
 
Too long since I had 504 TIs but I too recall that the plugs were BP5ES.
 
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