1954 Traction 11BL Transmission Overhaul

Did you buy some speedie sleeves for the output shafts? You might have troubles finding htem in the US as they are metric!
 
I ended up getting new output flanges from Jose Franssen since I was already paying the cost to have a new floor pan shipped to me. Indeed the 36mm speedi sleeves are impossible to find in North America. I would have had to order them from Australia. The new output flanges were about the same cost as the repair service Franssen offers. I just hope they are not made of Chineseium...
 
Last edited:
Transmission is back together, ready to assemble the clutch release bearing and the shift linkage. The only hiccup was the Jack Weaver plate extended somewhat beyond the lower bearing caps and caused an interference condition when I tried to attach the clutch housing. Ultimately, I ended up grinding the edge of the plate slightly and removing all but four of the studs from the clutch housing so I could work it past the interference. The new output flanges attached to the output shafts with no complaints.

IMG_6099.JPG
 
Grinding the plate to fit is acceptable. The one I fitted was made by Jack himself. It may be a little more precise as it went in easily! Interesting to see that picture of the gearbox and bell housing. I am used to the view of the RHD version. The LHD version is quite different!
 
I ended up getting new output flanges from Jose Franssen since I was already paying the cost to have a new floor pan shipped to me. Indeed the 36mm speedi sleeves are impossible to find in North America. I would have had to order them from Australia. The new output flanges were about the same cost as the repair service Franssen offers. I just hope they are not made of Chineseium...
Probably made from Indinium!
 
I didn't use a scanner. I designed it from scratch on TurboCAD using calipers to measure the critical dimensions (and knowing the pilot bearing has a 17mm opening).
 
Last edited:
I noticed when I was disassembling this car that the stub shaft for the accessory drive appeared to be from an ID/DS 19. The transmission has the counterbore for a 6204 bearing and is threaded for the retainer. Was the 11B transmission ever made like this or did someone go to the trouble of counterboring and threading the clutch housing?
IMG_6124.jpg


Anyway, I had a 6204-2RS bearing in my inventory (same size as the DS21 jackshaft) so I put a new bearing in.
 
Last edited:
I ended up getting new output flanges from Jose Franssen since I was already paying the cost to have a new floor pan shipped to me. Indeed the 36mm speedi sleeves are impossible to find in North America. I would have had to order them from Australia. The new output flanges were about the same cost as the repair service Franssen offers. I just hope they are not made of Chineseium...
Well, I spoke too soon about the new output flanges. It turns out there was a trap for the unwary (which in this case was me). After I fully assembled the transmission and duly applied "hermetical" to the underside of the stepped washer, I decided it would be a good idea to put oil in so I could verify the integrity of the various gaskets. I was disappointed to see a steady drip of oil from around the nut and washer holding the output flange onto the output shafts. I pulled off one of the output flanges to compare it to the original and noticed that the original had a snap ring in a groove, which was not present in the replacement flange. Without the snap ring, the flange was free to float. The nut had bottomed out on the splines themselves. Sure enough when I searched the box from the last shipment, there were two snap rings at the bottom of the box. There were no instructions or anything in the box to indicate that the output flanges were a "kit" that needed assembly.

IMG_6128.jpg


After a few maddening attempts to install the snap ring by prying with a screwdriver, I was eventually able to install the snap ring by spiraling it into the groove with a hammer and drift...

IMG_6129.jpg


It is fortunate that I discovered the snap rings before I discarded the box. Once the are installed it would be very, very difficult to remove them, so I could not have salvaged them from the old flanges.

Bottom line, don't make the mistake I did, installing the output flanges without first checking to see if the snap ring is present.
 
Last edited:
I didn't even notice they were there! Do they just limit the depth the flange will sit on the output shaft?
 
Neither did I until I noticed that the new flanges were floating on the output shafts with the nuts done up tight.....
I hope that you put a sealant under the nuts and the washers on the shaft to prevent oil seeping along the lines and out through the faces flanges of the output and the cardan yoke of the drive shaft. Take it from me --- they leak!
 
I hope that you put a sealant under the nuts and the washers on the shaft to prevent oil seeping along the lines and out through the faces flanges of the output and the cardan yoke of the drive shaft. Take it from me --- they leak!
Yes, I did (both times). The manual mentions the necessity of smearing 'hermetical' on the face of the stepped washer. What it doesn't mention is installing the snap ring in the yoke. I imagine the original replacement parts came with the snap ring already installed so it never occurred to the writers of the manual to mention it. Actually, the sealant issue is what let me to take everything apart to inspect. Without the snap ring, the sealant was the only thing resisting the end thrust of the driveshafts and I knew that couldn't possibly be right...
 
Last edited:
I am pleased to report that my 3D printed clutch alignment tool worked. The transmission was mated to the engine without any fuss. I am also pleased to report that I filled the transmission with oil (Redline MT90 synthetic GL4) and after 24 hours, there is no sign of any leakage. It is turning out to be a very happy Christmas for me... Happy Christmas to everyone on Aussifrogs!

IMG_6132.JPG
 
Top