That's a good idea. I might just whip upto the local bolts and fasteners store with one of the tractions bleed nipples and ask for 4 normal bleed nipples that match. I bet they measure it and hand me over the bleed nipples without a seconds thought.
brake cylinder bleed nipples
- Thread starter DoubleChevron
- Start date
That's a good idea. I might just whip upto the local bolts and fasteners store with one of the tractions bleed nipples and ask for 4 normal bleed nipples that match. I bet they measure it and hand me over the bleed nipples without a seconds thought.
If you tell them it's a Lockheed/Girling wheel cylinder, they will probably get the right one immediately.
The best I ever got from my 1964 DS19Pallas M was 38 Miles Per Gallon. I would not have a clue how that would be expressed in Litres per 100 Km ( Note Litres not Liters)! I still think in terms of MPG and also threads per inch ( perfectly sensible to me)!
Sure you can average miles per gallon. They're all just ratios.
Roger
Roger
Gallons per mile you can average, not miles per gallon if, as I said, you are talking about more than one car. This is because MPG is the reciprocal of fuel efficiency. If you have a car that gets 10 mpg and a car that gets 50 mpg the average of the two is 30 mpg but if you take them on a 30 mile trip you will use 3.6 gallons of fuel, not 2 gallons. That is why the US government "average corporate fuel efficiency" standards are BS enacted by politicians who don't understand simple math (here endeth the rant)...
If you want, I can add a nice little nipple with a nice rubber cap to your original bleeders Shane ( or anyone else).
I would turn up a nipple and silver solder it into the threaded hole, whatever it is.
I can make it fit either 1/4" or 250 thou or 6mm or 5/16" or 313 thou or 8mm or 3/8" or 375 thou or 10mm bleed tubing.
I didn't realise that the big bit is the actual bleeder, and the small one is just a plug to keep dirt out.
Post me your little bleeders, and I'll return them modified.
I would turn up a nipple and silver solder it into the threaded hole, whatever it is.
I can make it fit either 1/4" or 250 thou or 6mm or 5/16" or 313 thou or 8mm or 3/8" or 375 thou or 10mm bleed tubing.
I didn't realise that the big bit is the actual bleeder, and the small one is just a plug to keep dirt out.
Post me your little bleeders, and I'll return them modified.
Yeah...... but no..... you can average any range of data if they are expressed in the same units.
In your example, if you gave each car 1 gallon, together they would do 60miles. The miles covered by each car is different, and definitely average-able.
The average is valid while you are talking miles, and it's a measure of fuel efficiency...... ie, how far will the car go on a prescribed volume of fuel.
In your example you switched the units to gallons per 30 miles, which, as you've shown, is a different thing. When you are talking gallons, that's a measure of fuel consumption...... in gallons or litres or whatever, per prescribed distance travelled. That's also average-able, but only while the units remain consistent.
Indeed, it requires a bit of mathematical understanding, but it's not impossible.
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I would take out the set screw (bolt) then place my specially prepared piece of thin clear plastic tube with tape around it to make sure a very close squeeze fit and let it rip as per normal into the glass jar.
Always worked then put the bolt back which is basically protecting the wheel cylinder from contamination and Bob's your uncle!
Always worked then put the bolt back which is basically protecting the wheel cylinder from contamination and Bob's your uncle!
Now that's such a good idea ......... I'm sure they already exist. These will screw straight in right ?
If you want fancy
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/284441810899?hash=item423a0d97d3:g:cqUAAOSwqx1hNvbp&frcectupt=true
bleeders with one way valves.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/131178681978?hash=item1e8adbd67a:g:pS8AAOxyThVTX9HA&frcectupt=true
normal bleeders. I bet we can get these locally too. The price for postage is crazy.
7/16-20 brake bleeder screws are US$5.99 a pair at my local supercheap auto parts. I can ship 2-200 in a small flat rate box to AU for about $40.
I just checked eBay and they pop up all over the place. Some are even made in brass.
OK, I thought based on what Shane posted, the eBay bleeders had ridiculous shipping estimates. I was proposing sending a whole bunch for someone to distribute locally.
The ones I found are all from international sources and hence high shipping. I was just surprised by how many different ones there are!
Well using the one normal bleeder the car has .... I moved it around and used a vacuum bleeder on all of the wheel cylinders (after chaning all of the rubber lines). It pulled a surprising amount of debris out of the brake lines. Its a shame it also filled the brake system with air. It doesn't draw through the master cylinder until you pump the pedal to push more fluid into the master cylinder. I bet you need to hold the brake pedal down while using a vacuum bleeder?
Anyway, I'm out of brake fluid now, so will have to start from scratch again. Its remarkable how dirty the fluid is givne I bleed the entire system about 6months ago!
Anyway, I'm out of brake fluid now, so will have to start from scratch again. Its remarkable how dirty the fluid is givne I bleed the entire system about 6months ago!
How old is the car Shane?
You have mobilised crud that was happily sitting hidden away for 50, no 60, no 70 years. There's always more where that came from.
You have mobilised crud that was happily sitting hidden away for 50, no 60, no 70 years. There's always more where that came from.
That's ok.... I'll just keep sucking it through. Given it doesn't want to draw through the master cylinder, next time I might prop the brake pedal down about 1/2way. I'm betting with the pedal all the way up, the orifice that feeds the master cylinder is covered. I think I'll buy a litre of fluid and flush through it.
Its an old traction avant. There too old to really be useful transport these days. So more of a toy than anything. I think it was parked beside buttercup when you visited ?
You might want to consider a pressure bleeder. Get a cheap garden sprayer from your local hardware store. Since the connection between the brake fluid reservoir and the MC is 5/16 x 45 degree SAE flare, you can make an adapter from a piece of 5/16 copper tubing attached to the MC input from the reservoir. I did this and found it really sped up the bleeding process since I could pressurize the bleeder, then open each bleed screw in succession until the fluid came out clear.
Well I just did some driving up and down the street. Other than one of the front rubber lines keeps weeping at the join (I'm going to have to pull it back off ... I'm betting there is a manufacturing flaw in the hose metal end connection) ... . the brakes are finally releasing. Its now obvious the car is super lean off idle. I'll have to pull the carby down and see if the idle jet is blocked... something isn't happy until you open the throttle though.
One of the rear wheels locks first on the drive. I'm thinking just driving it will fix any further brake problems. Everything will be covered with surface rust.
One of the rear wheels locks first on the drive. I'm thinking just driving it will fix any further brake problems. Everything will be covered with surface rust.
Man I'm lucky .....
I pulled the line connection apart and clean/re-assembled... And it stopped leaking. This isn't why I'm lucky. I also checked the brakes weren't dragging with the wheel off and noticed this ...
Am I lucky or what? the driveshaft nut must be torqued down against the bottom of the thread, not the drum taper. I'm guessing out of the 3 brake drums I have here, two them have spun the taper in the past. Does anyone know what the measurement of the taper should be so I can check the drums and the driveshaft tapers ?
seeya,
Shane L.
Am I lucky or what? the driveshaft nut must be torqued down against the bottom of the thread, not the drum taper. I'm guessing out of the 3 brake drums I have here, two them have spun the taper in the past. Does anyone know what the measurement of the taper should be so I can check the drums and the driveshaft tapers ?
seeya,
Shane L.
Is it as simple as just putting a washer under the nut?