Or the Alfa factory drilled them
Another R17 owner planning to upgrade
- Thread starter Shoji
- Start date
Or the Alfa factory drilled them
I think you could still buy these new from Weber Italy until recently (say 10-20 years ago).
The last Webers made in Italy was 1992, as of 1993 all new Webers were made in Madrid , Spain, and I am told by a friend in Webcon in the UK that the last NOS Italian Webers were probably sold before 2000.
Ray
Ray
Redline were selling them in the US as part of a kit for BMW 2002 upgrade some years ago. Not cheap, but a nice kit they put together with their own manifolds and linkages.
Shoji I finally found my 12G workshop manual today. Guess its a bit late to send a copy of the dizzy graph. But I also read where I had translated the bit on progression holes. They have 2 X ....wait for it.... 2.5 mm. I remember now I was a bit worried about drilling those and decided to go with the Alpine 310 version with the 3 holes. I have used the 12g jets though. I might think about trying the 2.5 mm holes on my 12 G replica when I decide to get it back in the land of the living.
Wow! 2.5mm, that has to be the first hole and then I suspect they come down in size as it passes through to the mains.?? Thanks sunroof. I was worried when Tuesday, I drilled out to 1mm on the new holes. It seems all good but a wee splutter every now and then but that could be tune, plugs, etc. Rolling road would be good when I get around to it. In Mandurah there are to many cowboys so a stay clear of trying them out.
Wow, a new toy shop! What a fascinating website. Many thanks for that information.
2.5 mm eh? You will need Plan B to fill and redrill or you'll struggle to actually try it...… That's a huge hole. Very interesting.
A Solex 32 PDIST but parallel logic. Mine runs too lean at revs, so I've changed to a smaller Air Correction jet on Ray's advice. It was snatching a tiny bit from idle to main too but before I got over-excited and pulled more of it apart and then to blow out the transition system passages and the little holes in the throat, I played with the idle mixture. Some gentle adjustment there to lean off the idle a bit and speed it up again and all is sweet in that transition. Funny things, carburettors. I almost understand how they work but haven't got my mind around the air correction jet at all.
A red Renault R8.... Written in support of your "could be tune, plugs etc" comment.
5 Minutes of fame. Ren 17 is the currently the group cover photo for this french FB page.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/153900181658444/
https://www.facebook.com/groups/153900181658444/
Well done, the car looks great
Ditto
Something I did mid last year. JohnW was kind enough to supply a block of steel that he brought down for my gear linkage project on the 17.
I drilled and tapped some threads to suit some bolts and also drilled the hole for the two round linkage rods in 13mm. I then cut a decent slit on it's side through the two threaded holes and into the 13mm linkage rod hole. This is what I ended up with.
GekoEng also supplied me with a box of linkage parts and I used one of the parts to upgrade the ball joint. The original was too worn out and just kept coming off. It now has plenty of adjustment. I also slightly extented the gear lever with some treaded rod to about 15mm tighten the gate shifting. But since this works well I could go to 50mm too experiment more. I removed the spring from the lever as this 5 sp box seems to jump to the 3rd and 4th position when in neutral as a standard. Probably should take the little ring off the end.
Thanks for your help gentlemen! Works a treat.
I drilled and tapped some threads to suit some bolts and also drilled the hole for the two round linkage rods in 13mm. I then cut a decent slit on it's side through the two threaded holes and into the 13mm linkage rod hole. This is what I ended up with.
GekoEng also supplied me with a box of linkage parts and I used one of the parts to upgrade the ball joint. The original was too worn out and just kept coming off. It now has plenty of adjustment. I also slightly extented the gear lever with some treaded rod to about 15mm tighten the gate shifting. But since this works well I could go to 50mm too experiment more. I removed the spring from the lever as this 5 sp box seems to jump to the 3rd and 4th position when in neutral as a standard. Probably should take the little ring off the end.
Thanks for your help gentlemen! Works a treat.
Nothing beats home delivery... So glad it worked well.
So glad it worked well.