Possible sparks next to possible petrol fumes and/or leaks.
What could possibly go wrong.
If you get rear-ended or roll make sure you're wearing a fireproof suit.
My R12 POS Arrived!
- Thread starter Bowie
- Start date
Possible sparks next to possible petrol fumes and/or leaks.
What could possibly go wrong.
If you get rear-ended or roll make sure you're wearing a fireproof suit.
In a battery box behind the passenger seat. That way you are transferring weight to the back but not beyond the rear axle which is good. If you go over the rear axle you are increasing the pendulum effect.
Frans.
Frans.
I also had time to scratch away at the bottom of the firewall where the sealant was bubbling..
https://photos.app.goo.gl/6pThzR6S7PNMiBRYA
Not as bad as I first imagined. but I'll have to bin that handbrake and scratch around all that, then add some more metal I reckon.
The sections above and below appear ok so hopefully an adult shouldn't have to much trouble patching it, but we'll see how excited they are when I point and ask for help...
Re cams and battery boxes. From what I've gathered, "modern" sealed batteries are ok without an enclosure, ye olden day batteries where you can access the electrodes and top up with your choice of H20, are the ones that warrant a cloak.
Behind the passenger seat has won it for me, I have a "modern" battery that is sealed and it will assist in keeping $$$ battery cable costs down.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/6pThzR6S7PNMiBRYA
Not as bad as I first imagined. but I'll have to bin that handbrake and scratch around all that, then add some more metal I reckon.
The sections above and below appear ok so hopefully an adult shouldn't have to much trouble patching it, but we'll see how excited they are when I point and ask for help...
Re cams and battery boxes. From what I've gathered, "modern" sealed batteries are ok without an enclosure, ye olden day batteries where you can access the electrodes and top up with your choice of H20, are the ones that warrant a cloak.
Behind the passenger seat has won it for me, I have a "modern" battery that is sealed and it will assist in keeping $$$ battery cable costs down.
Work mates reckon we should just keep a rattle gun in the back and use the crank at the front.
Might do it one day on the dummy grid just to flex on the sports cars. :roflmao:
When it dies I'll replace it with something exotic maybe, the battery not the POS.
Might do it one day on the dummy grid just to flex on the sports cars. :roflmao:
When it dies I'll replace it with something exotic maybe, the battery not the POS.
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A bank of Energizer D size.
Speaking of electricity, it's nearly in.
You can imagine the Alt and Starter +'ve wrapped in red elec tap sharing a bolt and cable that is going inside the cabin, I will tidy that up I promise, but just as a proof of concept..
And the firewall is starting to look like swiss cheese again with yet another hole. I'm going to have to go back afterwards and plate everything no doubt.. (prior bowie planning fail)
but it should get a crank this afternoon, in the meantime why not play dress up's
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Bcpb6YdpY6sDBAbf8
I think this gives me secret powers like overtaking under yellows and stuff.
You can imagine the Alt and Starter +'ve wrapped in red elec tap sharing a bolt and cable that is going inside the cabin, I will tidy that up I promise, but just as a proof of concept..
And the firewall is starting to look like swiss cheese again with yet another hole. I'm going to have to go back afterwards and plate everything no doubt.. (prior bowie planning fail)
but it should get a crank this afternoon, in the meantime why not play dress up's
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Bcpb6YdpY6sDBAbf8
I think this gives me secret powers like overtaking under yellows and stuff.
Of course!
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Why not replace bolt with an 8/10 one and use the crankhandle?
Because that wouldn't flex it on the race cars.
I actually think that would be cool.
Well hold that glorious crank ankle flexing for the moment, because I've got but a couple of circuits left to install;
- rear brakes
- windscreen wipers
I reckon I can use the original switch, i just have to work out where the power needs to go I suppose and play with the speed settings. Same for the rear brake lights. They are just annoying so I did the fun stuff first;
It's a 50yr old horn, kinda pretty really.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/vymHGFN2hjhz7Kwc7
Race car interior now looks like this;
https://photos.app.goo.gl/SiexF7r8CposxMzj8
I do love a good cable tie.. I probably went a little overboard, might go back and remove a few
And from the seat?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/fJuF14f5gyAYCg51A
We found a bigger tacho in the shed so why not. Also not the red "this is melting light"
I've wired up the oil and water temp (actually is it oil temp or just level?) Either way, I've wired up these mechanical ground switches to the same globe. I figure I don't care if I have an issue with water or oil, if that light comes on I should probably stop and re asses my life decisions, and that's exactly what I will do.
We are looking after a bike meeting at work at the moment, I think I'll have time to work out the rear lights and windscreen wiper.
Oh what you didn't see is all the fun I had filling in holes with sealant. Good luck using those threads every again future Bowie.. MMHahahaha
I'm in 2 minds if I bother with a fuel gauge. Range isn't an issues as it's a circuit nugget now. the Procedure will be to put fuel in it, then more fuel when it runs out, or at least at lunch time. I'll ponder it a bit more either way.
VIV LA RENO!
- rear brakes
- windscreen wipers
I reckon I can use the original switch, i just have to work out where the power needs to go I suppose and play with the speed settings. Same for the rear brake lights. They are just annoying so I did the fun stuff first;
It's a 50yr old horn, kinda pretty really.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/vymHGFN2hjhz7Kwc7
Race car interior now looks like this;
https://photos.app.goo.gl/SiexF7r8CposxMzj8
I do love a good cable tie.. I probably went a little overboard, might go back and remove a few
And from the seat?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/fJuF14f5gyAYCg51A
We found a bigger tacho in the shed so why not. Also not the red "this is melting light"
I've wired up the oil and water temp (actually is it oil temp or just level?) Either way, I've wired up these mechanical ground switches to the same globe. I figure I don't care if I have an issue with water or oil, if that light comes on I should probably stop and re asses my life decisions, and that's exactly what I will do.
We are looking after a bike meeting at work at the moment, I think I'll have time to work out the rear lights and windscreen wiper.
Oh what you didn't see is all the fun I had filling in holes with sealant. Good luck using those threads every again future Bowie.. MMHahahaha
I'm in 2 minds if I bother with a fuel gauge. Range isn't an issues as it's a circuit nugget now. the Procedure will be to put fuel in it, then more fuel when it runs out, or at least at lunch time. I'll ponder it a bit more either way.
VIV LA RENO!
You may not care why the warning light comes on but in the pits you might want to know if you are looking for oil or coolant problems.
Viv la Reno.
Viv la Reno.
Yeah, ah, I'd figure I'd check both, I mean.
A) Replace both or either and go fang;
B) Go get a coffee as it cools down then go fang;
C) Go home because you fanged to much.
What could possibly go wrong!
A) Replace both or either and go fang;
B) Go get a coffee as it cools down then go fang;
C) Go home because you fanged to much.
What could possibly go wrong!
Its good to have a big red light that comes on when things go wrong so that you can shut the thing down quickly to save the engine.
But its much better to have an oil pressure gauge and water temp gauge so that you can monitor what is happening in the engine and to maybe see a problem coming and manage that problem and complete the race or your session on the track.
It also stops the embarrassment of being towed back to the pits and gauges look cool
But its much better to have an oil pressure gauge and water temp gauge so that you can monitor what is happening in the engine and to maybe see a problem coming and manage that problem and complete the race or your session on the track.
It also stops the embarrassment of being towed back to the pits and gauges look cool
Agree with Col on that one Bowie. To get the best performance out of the engine you need to monitor gauges and see what the temp is, oil pressure may also vary with temp and there may be a pressure dip if you are getting surge. It is critical to know that stuff. That's why top professional tams have an engineer looking at the data in the pits and telling the driver what to do to keep everything in the right zone for max performance.
In addition to seeing the big red light switch on in a total failure you can look in the rear view mirror and see smoke, some steam, engine croutons, and a shiny wet smear on the track leading to your car.
In addition to seeing the big red light switch on in a total failure you can look in the rear view mirror and see smoke, some steam, engine croutons, and a shiny wet smear on the track leading to your car.
Ah I went looking for the;
a) temperature the coolant switch grounds
b) the pressure the oil sensor grounds.
And couldn't find it. (Cue Incoming Simon in 3...2...)
I remember reading it somewhere and thinking the values were conservative, anyway.
Resistance is no good!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/oc7BCLCg6Q2qtTHa9
Or it's too good.
That's 12v to and or from the starter motor. I'll have to check if that's from the fused 12v or from the starter signal cable. Glad I picked it up now and didn't cover everything then set myself on fire. Might use some larger cable there...
Also it had a bath!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/L1QrPLVagYLhWCbs9
What a nugget!
Can't wait to mould some air scopes on to the "hot" brakes
a) temperature the coolant switch grounds
b) the pressure the oil sensor grounds.
And couldn't find it. (Cue Incoming Simon in 3...2...)
I remember reading it somewhere and thinking the values were conservative, anyway.
Resistance is no good!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/oc7BCLCg6Q2qtTHa9
Or it's too good.
That's 12v to and or from the starter motor. I'll have to check if that's from the fused 12v or from the starter signal cable. Glad I picked it up now and didn't cover everything then set myself on fire. Might use some larger cable there...
Also it had a bath!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/L1QrPLVagYLhWCbs9
What a nugget!
Can't wait to mould some air scopes on to the "hot" brakes
Ah I went looking for the;
a) temperature the coolant switch grounds
b) the pressure the oil sensor grounds.
And couldn't find it. (Cue Incoming Simon in 3...2...)
I remember reading it somewhere and thinking the values were conservative, anyway.
Resistance is no good!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/oc7BCLCg6Q2qtTHa9
Or it's too good.
That's 12v to and or from the starter motor. I'll have to check if that's from the fused 12v or from the starter signal cable. Glad I picked it up now and didn't cover everything then set myself on fire. Might use some larger cable there...
Also it had a bath!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/L1QrPLVagYLhWCbs9
What a nugget!
Can't wait to mould some air scopes on to the "hot" brakes
Any of these kits will do the job, all depends on budget.
https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?...t=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=temp+gauge
For the oil pressure buy yourself a "TEE" piece so that you can run a gauge and the light.
That red wire looks like it has been damaged externally and not internally by heat, if it was heat it would show signs of damage over its entire length.
Another little tip if you want to make your wiring look professional use this stuff.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tube-Wi...a8f5ccbabf4bed8a02a07a6bbb9ba2&frcectupt=true
It also makes it easy to add wires later, just unwrap add wire then re-wrap
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Yeah I thought it looked like a crimp accident, but I hadn't an excuse to crimp near there for some time, and the pattern was uniform around the entire section of wire, which I know sounds like a crimp, but normally crimps squish rather then make a perfect 360 indent if not complete. Anyway perhaps I'll replace it and just keep an eye on it.
Good call on that cable collector, I'll splurge and get some covers, there's a few things I want to re-arrange in the harness now.
It was joyful getting the rear lights and brake lights working. Thank you Haynes for explaining that 12v actually goes to the brake switch, and then out the loom to the lights. I wasn't confident on the integrity of the loom, so I ended up pulling it out and taking it all apart and binning the indicators, fuel, and rear boot lights. The rear reds, will become the mandatory "rain light" and if they are not happy the cable is there at least to mount what ever they reckon they want. Switch is positioned neatly in that mini dash-plate-board heheh.
I'm going to go back and cover the exposed 12v light terminals however. A light to moderate shunt in the rear would push the metal onto them and ground them out. Sparks near a venting fuel tank would not be the coolest I reckon.
I'm still thinking about the best way to give it rear camber. If we cut the beam the suspension points will be all over the place, and my friendly welding blow torching adult is not to keen on bending the rear spindles.
I'm going to bring the standard beam (original one with small drums) to see if we can drill out those spot welds in the corner of where the stub axle joints, and space it out from there?
Translating the old 12/15/17 competition manual I couldn't see anything there to sort rear camber. It did remind us to throw away the soft bushings and make them all solid in the rear however.. I can't begin to understand how taking out those rubber points will transform the handling (in the rear triangle along with the trailing arms) It's odd to think of steel flexing but I must just accept it and move on as that indeed is what it does.
VIV LA RENO!
Good call on that cable collector, I'll splurge and get some covers, there's a few things I want to re-arrange in the harness now.
It was joyful getting the rear lights and brake lights working. Thank you Haynes for explaining that 12v actually goes to the brake switch, and then out the loom to the lights. I wasn't confident on the integrity of the loom, so I ended up pulling it out and taking it all apart and binning the indicators, fuel, and rear boot lights. The rear reds, will become the mandatory "rain light" and if they are not happy the cable is there at least to mount what ever they reckon they want. Switch is positioned neatly in that mini dash-plate-board heheh.
I'm going to go back and cover the exposed 12v light terminals however. A light to moderate shunt in the rear would push the metal onto them and ground them out. Sparks near a venting fuel tank would not be the coolest I reckon.
I'm still thinking about the best way to give it rear camber. If we cut the beam the suspension points will be all over the place, and my friendly welding blow torching adult is not to keen on bending the rear spindles.
I'm going to bring the standard beam (original one with small drums) to see if we can drill out those spot welds in the corner of where the stub axle joints, and space it out from there?
Translating the old 12/15/17 competition manual I couldn't see anything there to sort rear camber. It did remind us to throw away the soft bushings and make them all solid in the rear however.. I can't begin to understand how taking out those rubber points will transform the handling (in the rear triangle along with the trailing arms) It's odd to think of steel flexing but I must just accept it and move on as that indeed is what it does.
VIV LA RENO!
Getting lighter.
Dash and engine / body loom was worth 40kgs!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/NTPSGpYFyqSG1r217
I want to see a 6 at the start there... Knowing a cage will add 100kg easy.
There are still a few brackets left around to liberate, and it still has the original heavy battery, and there are heads of new longer steel bolts I can replace with some shorter ones..
Oh and the door handles,
Oh and the side vents,
Oh and the boot brackets for the jack etc,
Oh yeah I reckon this will work
Dash and engine / body loom was worth 40kgs!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/NTPSGpYFyqSG1r217
I want to see a 6 at the start there... Knowing a cage will add 100kg easy.
There are still a few brackets left around to liberate, and it still has the original heavy battery, and there are heads of new longer steel bolts I can replace with some shorter ones..
Oh and the door handles,
Oh and the side vents,
Oh and the boot brackets for the jack etc,
Oh yeah I reckon this will work
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