Is this the best project car you have ever seen?

I work about 10minutes from home... So I thought I'd take the car in and show the people at work (yeah most of them had heard about it :clown: ).

Hmm...... The exact spot my old carby CX used to die and freeze the carby on the way to Uni all those years ago I come to a frantic stop. As the outside of the windscreen froze over in a hell of a hurry. Gee's those wipers are brilliant ( as they shed there wiper blades on the frozen but not wet screen :rolleyes: ). Oh well, a rag off the back floor and me jumping madly out to wipe the screen works too. Another set of wiper blades, and the holders on the arms crimped tighter keeps them in place, even wiping a bone dry screen now (yes I checked, I HATE wiping dry screens with wipers). The heater sure isn't worth a pinch of sh!t either :)

My work collegues are most impressed ................. "Hey Shane, is that your wreck out in the carpark ... Did that really make it here :roflmao: I guess your wife is coming out to rescue you again tonight :roflmao: .... "...... I was told by a few people that "there's people walking around and around your car, then pointing at the sticker in the back window and laughing "............. "You get used to that" I told them ..." they look for a badge trying figure out what the hell it is, but there isn't one :evil: " ............

Then about 5minutes from work ... BUGGER RAIN ...................... oh shit ... hang on it's green ..... I do a frantic look at the temperature gauge ............ it's sitting on over 200degrees F .......... OMFG .... How hot is that in real temperature ...... #$@#% thermostat #@$#@ :cussing: :cussing: I pull over and as soon as the engine drops to idle the #@$#@ thermostat opens.

Enough of this crap. That could have cost me a motor.

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Now the thermostat shouldn't refuse to open, a brand newie, this time with holes drilled in it to allow coolant bypass it. I'd forgotten the thermostat didn't like to open if the engine is revving... Damn it all, the car this motor came from used to do that trick if I jumped in it and went driving and highways where the motor was always revving and not slowing to idle for intersections etc...

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Heater core out, new thermostat in and fresh coolant again.... We'll drop the heater in for "rodding" ASAP.

Plenty of stuff to do ... for starters the generator is charging at 12.8 -> 13volts which is no good at all. That's barely a trickle charge to a calcium plate battery. We need about 14volts. I wonder if I can adjust the regulator :confused:

seeya,
Shane L.
Shane 200 degree F is 93.3333 degree C. So I think temperature is normal? Is that common D/ID thing to do to drill the 3 large holes on Thermostat? If so I need to do mine as I did only make a small hole like original one.
 
Keep at it mate, Roger has plenty of engines. i'm genuinely surprised you hadn't at least tested the operation of the thermostat, given the age of the car. Your everlasting "faith" in this old sh!t is amazing.

Engine bay looks a treat.

Keep the car sans identification. A UFO number plate would keep them guessing.

fXVSPgk.jpg

Yeah, I tested it mine because I was curious about how it worked. I poured water boiled to 90 degree and it opened up and closed when it cooled down. I repeated the process few times. It works!
 
I work about 10minutes from home... So I thought I'd take the car in and show the people at work (yeah most of them had heard about it :clown: ).

Hmm...... The exact spot my old carby CX used to die and freeze the carby on the way to Uni all those years ago I come to a frantic stop. As the outside of the windscreen froze over in a hell of a hurry. Gee's those wipers are brilliant ( as they shed there wiper blades on the frozen but not wet screen :rolleyes: ). Oh well, a rag off the back floor and me jumping madly out to wipe the screen works too. Another set of wiper blades, and the holders on the arms crimped tighter keeps them in place, even wiping a bone dry screen now (yes I checked, I HATE wiping dry screens with wipers). The heater sure isn't worth a pinch of sh!t either :)

My work collegues are most impressed ................. "Hey Shane, is that your wreck out in the carpark ... Did that really make it here :roflmao: I guess your wife is coming out to rescue you again tonight :roflmao: .... "...... I was told by a few people that "there's people walking around and around your car, then pointing at the sticker in the back window and laughing "............. "You get used to that" I told them ..." they look for a badge trying figure out what the hell it is, but there isn't one :evil: " ............

Then about 5minutes from work ... BUGGER RAIN ...................... oh shit ... hang on it's green ..... I do a frantic look at the temperature gauge ............ it's sitting on over 200degrees F .......... OMFG .... How hot is that in real temperature ...... #$@#% thermostat #@$#@ :cussing: :cussing: I pull over and as soon as the engine drops to idle the #@$#@ thermostat opens.

Enough of this crap. That could have cost me a motor.

attachment.php


Now the thermostat shouldn't refuse to open, a brand newie, this time with holes drilled in it to allow coolant bypass it. I'd forgotten the thermostat didn't like to open if the engine is revving... Damn it all, the car this motor came from used to do that trick if I jumped in it and went driving and highways where the motor was always revving and not slowing to idle for intersections etc...

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Heater core out, new thermostat in and fresh coolant again.... We'll drop the heater in for "rodding" ASAP.

Plenty of stuff to do ... for starters the generator is charging at 12.8 -> 13volts which is no good at all. That's barely a trickle charge to a calcium plate battery. We need about 14volts. I wonder if I can adjust the regulator :confused:

seeya,
Shane L.
I reconditioned my generator. I measured battery terminal when car is running and it measured 13.8V DC. Is that Okay? I looked inside regulator but I only saw many inductors.
 
I reconditioned my generator. I measured battery terminal when car is running and it measured 13.8V DC. Is that Okay? I looked inside regulator but I only saw many inductors.

13.8 should be fine. I noticed the volt meter today is sitting up nice and high. The car likes being used. Everything is improving with use. I'd say there was poor contacts inside the regulator that weren't working. I didn't pull the generator apart. I could see through the back of it the brushes looked enormous and the commutator was perfect. The bearings also felt great, so I just oiled them.

The younger guys at work tell me "It's the coolest car I have by far.... A lot cooler than the red one" ............. I must agree, CX's are always far warmer, they have great heaters in them :clown:

The old thermostat in it did work perfectly. I'd never drilled the bypass hole in it.... so for some reason it randomly didn't like to open if you jump in and went driving along highways. It would always open 100% of the time perfectly if used around town :confused: I figure it's the bypass hole that must make all the difference.

seeya,
Shane L.
 
13.8 should be fine. I noticed the volt meter today is sitting up nice and high. The car likes being used. Everything is improving with use. I'd say there was poor contacts inside the regulator that weren't working. I didn't pull the generator apart. I could see through the back of it the brushes looked enormous and the commutator was perfect. The bearings also felt great, so I just oiled them.

The younger guys at work tell me "It's the coolest car I have by far.... A lot cooler than the red one" ............. I must agree, CX's are always far warmer, they have great heaters in them :clown:

The old thermostat in it did work perfectly. I'd never drilled the bypass hole in it.... so for some reason it randomly didn't like to open if you jump in and went driving along highways. It would always open 100% of the time perfectly if used around town :confused: I figure it's the bypass hole that must make all the difference.

seeya,
Shane L.
I wondered that why there is a thermostat installed in the vehicle cooling system. Isn`t that better if water is circulating all the time? Or engine becomes too cool?
 
I wondered that why there is a thermostat installed in the vehicle cooling system. Isn`t that better if water is circulating all the time? Or engine becomes too cool?

yeah to regulate the temperature. and on those cars designed for them, they can even be to slow the coolant flow through the radiator. Don't remove it !!!

We headed to the "Krooze in cafe" for lunch today. I should have got a piccie of the car parked out the front so they'd have a photo of something decent to hang on there wall inside :clown:

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Krooze-In-Cafe/283046117571

seeya,
Shane L.
 
Isnt' the list of jobs to do supposed to get shorter ?? Today I found the fuel gauge doesn't work .... It's always shows empty even with $40 of fuel put in it ...... and the indicators no longer work. i stopped at my parents and we wiggled all the fuses under the bonnet ( as I reckon there crap those old fuse boxes) ... this produced one flash from the left hand indicator ......... then no tail lights when checked :eek: A quick wiggle of all the fuses bought the tail lights back and no dash lights ... sigh .... another wiggle of them when I got home got me dash lights back. Bugger it all why didn't I notice this when I spent all the time messing with it's electricals. Everything worked perfectly (no doubt because I spent a lot of time fixing every earth point on every light).

how do I throw away those shitty fuse boxes and still keep it looking "right" :confused:

seeya,
Shane L.
 
Isnt' the list of jobs to do supposed to get shorter ?? Today I found the fuel gauge doesn't work ....
Have you replaced Fuel sender float? Mine had original cork and sucked all the petrol and sank. I bought plastic one from ebay it works ok. Before that I tied empty Locktite 243 threadlocker bottle. It worked exactly same as ebay float. Being analogue, needle always moves crazy.
 
Have you replaced Fuel sender float? Mine had original cork and sucked all the petrol and sank. I bought plastic one from ebay it works ok. Before that I tied empty Locktite 243 threadlocker bottle. It worked exactly same as ebay float. Being analogue, needle always moves crazy.

I haven't looked yet, there appears to be no fuel smells in the car, so I'm not keen on pulling the float unit out incase I end up with fuel smells :roflmao:

The cars not going to move again until I've fixed the fuses either way. I'm not driving a car that can randomly drop out the tail lights for example.... especially if your not aware of the fact. You'd end up with a 3ton w@nk tank parked in your backseat in no time otherwise.

seeya,
Shane L.
 
P1160411.jpgP1160412.jpgIt took a lot of head scratching and muttering to myself ................... But I figured out how to create the only "non-intermittant" Citroen DS/GS/CX fuse box I've ever come across....

Isn't it pretty :)

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Damn it's effective ... there's no way this b@stard is ever going to bugger me around again.

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It's really easy to achieve too if you have a bit of wire, a few terminals and some solder :clown:

seeya,
Shane L.
 
View attachment 45345View attachment 45346It took a lot of head scratching and muttering to myself ................... But I figured out how to create the only "non-intermittant" Citroen DS/GS/CX fuse box I've ever come across....

Isn't it pretty :)

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Damn it's effective ... there's no way this b@stard is ever going to bugger me around again.

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It's really easy to achieve too if you have a bit of wire, a few terminals and some solder :clown:

seeya,
Shane L.

Shane, up to this point I've been admiring the work you've done to the car. It's at this point that I have to tell you your brain has turned into something less than oatmeal. You are asking, no, begging for a fire. Please, for the love of all that is holy, pull the wire and put the fuses back in. The reason for a fuse is to protect the circuit, not piss you off.

If you need a box, I'll send you one, clean and ready to go. If you really think wire is the way to go, use fusible link, probably 18 gauge. You can use separate fuse holders rated for 30 amps. You can also try what I suggested to you earlier on in the thread- some brush-on naval jelly.
 
View attachment 45345View attachment 45346It took a lot of head scratching and muttering to myself ................... But I figured out how to create the only "non-intermittant" Citroen DS/GS/CX fuse box I've ever come across....

Isn't it pretty :)

attachment.php


Damn it's effective ... there's no way this b@stard is ever going to bugger me around again.

attachment.php


It's really easy to achieve too if you have a bit of wire, a few terminals and some solder :clown:

seeya,
Shane L.
Sorry Mate! I agree with Bill. Don't proceed down that path.It is not worth the risk. 11 B Legeres and 11B Normales do not have fuse boxes. I however do intend to install one as a safety precaution. It will hide under the dash out of sight. Do some clean up work on the original fuse box and insert new glass tube fuses. You may even have to dismantle the contacts and have them barrel plated to get reliable rust proof contact with the fuse!
 
Hee, hee.hee ......

Man I thought you guys would realise what a sh!t stirer I am by now :roflmao: :roflmao: The four "power" wires from the top of the fuse back run back directly into the car .... I've snipped through these just inside the car and am installing a modern wedge type fuse box behind the glovebox. The battery terminal is off until the fuse box is fully installed and tested :)

The existing fuse box is just there to look all pretty now :clown:

seeya,
Shane L.
 
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OK, there's one born every minute! Hook line and sinker on that!
Well, that's a relief! How do you plan to access the blade fuses behind the glove box? I would still have preferred a restoration of the original unit. The fuse box on the Light 15 has never given any trouble and it is way older! ( even though it only carries two fuses) Properly refurbished your original fuse box would be perfectly OK and you would easily be able to change fuses!
 
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I've even "rescued" other people cars including CX's just by wiggling the fuses. I really don't trust those glass fuses at all... full stop. Every DS/ID/CX/GS I've ever had has played up. I don't think the modern wedge type fuses will last 50years either. But we can just throw it away and change it if it lasts "only" 25years :) The glovebox just lifts out for access. I'ts only a carboard box :)

I can even recall being pulled over by the police in the past because the CX had no tail lights. Yep wiggling the fuses bought them back (that is the old glass fuse CX not the one with wedge fuses inside the car). Cleaning them only works for a short time (and re-tensioning the holders). I was ready to solder the bloody things in with the old CX (only then your stuffed if you blow a fuse and are out somewhere).

seeya,
Shane L.
 
Oh, tee hee, I get it now. My alarm at your doing something patently stupid with your and Ang's safety was completely misplaced. Sure showed me! Carry on....


/comes from decades of seeing first hand just how retarded people can be when wiring their car
 
One very tired toddler after his 1st birthday party :)

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Poor Roger turned up for a drive and the ID19 wasn't running as I haven't installed the fuse box yet :( .... I sure did enjoy taking a DS BVH for a drive though :dance:
 

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This is all I meant by fuse box.... cheap and simple. Yes I'll tidy that wiring up and tie it out of the way.

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I'll just write on the back of the underbonnet fuse covers "FUSES BEHIND GLOVEBOX".

The indicators still aren't working. I'll have to pull the timer switch out and see what's going on.

seeya,
Shane l.
 

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One very tired toddler after his 1st birthday party :)

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Poor Roger turned up for a drive and the ID19 wasn't running as I haven't installed the fuse box yet :( .... I sure did enjoy taking a DS BVH for a drive though :dance:

Woha~ I like that sticker?! Where Can I buy it?
 
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