I'm going up for the Saturday afternoon and evening only so I'll see you guys there.
Gawd, another R8 upgrade
- Thread starter renault8&10
- Start date
BYO Renault..?
Yes, not sure which one yet. Probably the R8.
Frank Wicks is picking me up from the airport (Sydney) on Thursday morning, so see you there!
Kevin, are you getting the welds on the brake mounts crack tested? I was told it would probably be required if not recommended, it may vary from engineer to engineer.
Or are yours not welded onto the original back plate?
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Or are yours not welded onto the original back plate?
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Hadn't thought of it. I'll have to see how I go.
They are two plates welded with a spacer tube where each calliper bolt goes through. They are not part of the original backing plate I think but fabricated separately. They bolt to the axle tube. I might try the homogated brakes on an A110 route that COL mentioned since they use the R16 discs and caliper mount.
They are two plates welded with a spacer tube where each calliper bolt goes through. They are not part of the original backing plate I think but fabricated separately. They bolt to the axle tube. I might try the homogated brakes on an A110 route that COL mentioned since they use the R16 discs and caliper mount.
Further to my comment, VSB14, NCOP5, 2.2.3 states:
Caliper brackets must be mounted using all of the original disc brake caliper bracket mountingpoints or at least three of the original drum brake backing plate mounting points.
My interpretation of this is that we will need to use all the bolt holes that held the original backing plates on to be street legal in NSW, so the half bracket design may not fly unless it was used on a production car that was legal here. Was it used on an Alpine?
It may be easier to remanufacture the part that the tie bar attaches to as well so the bracket can be made a one piece. A rose joint instead of the hexagon washer would take care of not getting the angle of the bend spot on and give better adjustability. The welded part of the tie bar may require crack testing.
If so a reference would be nice. We also need a reference for the drilling of the additional holes in the rear hubs as the rules state that you can't do it.
Caliper brackets must be mounted using all of the original disc brake caliper bracket mountingpoints or at least three of the original drum brake backing plate mounting points.
My interpretation of this is that we will need to use all the bolt holes that held the original backing plates on to be street legal in NSW, so the half bracket design may not fly unless it was used on a production car that was legal here. Was it used on an Alpine?
It may be easier to remanufacture the part that the tie bar attaches to as well so the bracket can be made a one piece. A rose joint instead of the hexagon washer would take care of not getting the angle of the bend spot on and give better adjustability. The welded part of the tie bar may require crack testing.
If so a reference would be nice. We also need a reference for the drilling of the additional holes in the rear hubs as the rules state that you can't do it.
What Kevin has done is basically what the factory did to the Alpine A110.
All the parts are in the Alpine Parts Manual.
All the parts are in the Alpine Parts Manual.
Can you scan the page COL?
c.lees - technically, it does use the original holes to mount the caliper bracket. Which one is the caliper bracket? If it said mount the caliper I'd be screwed.
I know what you mean, but it will come down to interpretation. As for redrilling the plates on the hub, he was ok with that provided the discs aren't redrilled. They will need to be in the front of course. I'm assuming the back has as well otherwise why redrill them. I will take the car to him when it is closer to being finished when we formally start the certification process but before it is completed.
If I stay with carbies, I would probably fall into LA1 as it is not seen as much of a performance enhancement as what you are planning.
It is a grey area for sure. At this stage I can only press on.
c.lees - technically, it does use the original holes to mount the caliper bracket. Which one is the caliper bracket? If it said mount the caliper I'd be screwed.
I know what you mean, but it will come down to interpretation. As for redrilling the plates on the hub, he was ok with that provided the discs aren't redrilled. They will need to be in the front of course. I'm assuming the back has as well otherwise why redrill them. I will take the car to him when it is closer to being finished when we formally start the certification process but before it is completed.
If I stay with carbies, I would probably fall into LA1 as it is not seen as much of a performance enhancement as what you are planning.
It is a grey area for sure. At this stage I can only press on.
Perfect, thanks COL.
As you say, that is exactly what I have on the rear.
As you say, that is exactly what I have on the rear.
If drilling the disk is a no no how are you doing the front? 4 holes?
On the rear are the r16 disks normally clearanced for the wheel studs, or do they not interfere? I've seen big brake kits with clearanced disks.
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On the rear are the r16 disks normally clearanced for the wheel studs, or do they not interfere? I've seen big brake kits with clearanced disks.
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When using the R16 rotors you still need to align scallops so they line up with the wheel studs. There is also a locating ring which is used to make sure the rotor is aligned central to the hub. This is the same for both front and rear.
In 2013 the RMS had me drill my discs as they weren't 100% happy that I had floating discs on an ICV I was registering.
They wanted the discs to be firmly mounted to the hub and the only way to do it was drill through the disc and hub and use 6 hi-tensile bolts to hold it all together.
The car had passed all its brake tests with the discs floating but this was a belts and braces solution.
If I wanted the car registered I had to drill and bolt the discs.
Rules are all about interpretation.
They wanted the discs to be firmly mounted to the hub and the only way to do it was drill through the disc and hub and use 6 hi-tensile bolts to hold it all together.
The car had passed all its brake tests with the discs floating but this was a belts and braces solution.
If I wanted the car registered I had to drill and bolt the discs.
Rules are all about interpretation.
Kevin, I have just come across this thread. Back in post 65 you have shown some parts you have electro plated, there is a serious problem you can have if you plate medium or high carbon steel, it is called hydrogen embrittlement. As the name implies the plated parts become brittle which can be dangerous for important safety parts like springs or retaining spring clips. Could I suggest putting on a set of safety specs and trying to flex those spring clips? They might be OK but the problem is the inconsistency of process.
Regards, Phillip.
Regards, Phillip.
You mean the ones that retain the brake hoses? The other ones just hold the handbrake cables to the torsion bars.
There is some info on this in the jane kits manual, I'll dig it out.
There is some info on this in the jane kits manual, I'll dig it out.
That is very true. I have seen this in the parts I have had zinc plated. "Normal" steel doesn't seem to suffer, but I wouldn't plate for instance head bolts.
Any zinc plating I get done I always ask for it to be de-embrittled. Its a process where they bake everything for a certain time period which returns the parts to their normal state.